Stephen Matthew
New Member
I am currently looking at a 1983 Ericson 28, but I want to convert the tiller to a wheel. Can anyone advise me on this. Thanks.
Tiller-to-wheel conversion on a 28
- Thread starter Stephen Matthew
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While I would discourage this for many good reasons, if you do decide to go ahead, try to get photos of some the factory installations (cockpit and rudder connection) via e-mailing other E-28 owners in the directory. Note that the original factory setup was probably from Yacht Specialties (no longer in business). Edson has many examples in their current catalog and can likely sell you the pieces you need to change your boat over to wheel steering. One of their worthy competitors, Whitlock, also has a strong presence in this country. Both have dealers and web sites with lots of info, afaik.
If you have good sailing experience and for whatever reason just *want* to have a steering wheel on a small boat, that's fine. But, if you are new to sailing you need to examine why boatbuilders have been putting wheels on production boats under 36 feet (to use an arbitrary length). In plain terms this helps to sell floating condos to inexperienced sailors, while adding cost and profit and compexity to the boat. This is a successful marketing ploy, I admit, to get newbies to move from power boats and automobiles into sail boats, by giving them the familiar sight of a steering wheel to reassure them as they enter into an unfamiliar sport. A boat with a good handling reputation like the E-28 does not need the "deadening" effect of a wheel to cover up its faults like some other production boats I could name...
So wheel if you must, and Edson or Whitlock makes good gear to get you adapted. But think out why you want this change, in the first place. The $2K+ this will entail could buy you a new main and part of a dodger.......
Keep us posted of your progress and comments.
Note: this opinion is worth about what I charge for it (!)
Loren
ps: I must admit that my 34 has the factory wheel option. It was that way when we bought it. If it were at all affordable I would change it to a tiller in a heartbeat.
If you have good sailing experience and for whatever reason just *want* to have a steering wheel on a small boat, that's fine. But, if you are new to sailing you need to examine why boatbuilders have been putting wheels on production boats under 36 feet (to use an arbitrary length). In plain terms this helps to sell floating condos to inexperienced sailors, while adding cost and profit and compexity to the boat. This is a successful marketing ploy, I admit, to get newbies to move from power boats and automobiles into sail boats, by giving them the familiar sight of a steering wheel to reassure them as they enter into an unfamiliar sport. A boat with a good handling reputation like the E-28 does not need the "deadening" effect of a wheel to cover up its faults like some other production boats I could name...
So wheel if you must, and Edson or Whitlock makes good gear to get you adapted. But think out why you want this change, in the first place. The $2K+ this will entail could buy you a new main and part of a dodger.......
Keep us posted of your progress and comments.
Note: this opinion is worth about what I charge for it (!)
Loren
ps: I must admit that my 34 has the factory wheel option. It was that way when we bought it. If it were at all affordable I would change it to a tiller in a heartbeat.
Geoff Johnson
Fellow Ericson Owner
I have had both tiller and wheel boats and I think the answer depends in part on the shape of the cockpit. The problem I found with the tiller is that you have to clear out the aft end of the cockpit when tacking whereas with a wheel and a T-shaped cockpit like the one on my 32-3, my guests are left unmolested. However, if you add a wheel to a cockpit that is not designed for it, you will have a hard time getting around the wheel to the back of the cockpit. I find that my 42" wheel is perfectly matched with Ericson's great curved helmsman seat (for which I have yet to find an equal on any boat). I also find it easier to steer standing up with a wheel, a necessity on Long Island Sound if you want to see the lobster buoys before they find your propeller. On the other hand, a tiller does give you a better feel for the boat and can be moved out of the when at anchor.
Last edited:
Jeff Asbury
Principal Partner
Don't do it!
Don't do it!
Don't do it!
We also have a 1983 E-28 that the PO changed over to a wheel. Personally, from my experience I wish he hadn't. I've often thought about doing the reverse, taking out the wheel and installing a tiller.
If you go to Specs & Documents, you will find the manaul for the E-28. There is are two sections 3.5 and 3.6 that speak about this. 3.6 gives you a high level overview of what it takes to make sure that the wheel system is properly installed and operating.
If you go to Specs & Documents, you will find the manaul for the E-28. There is are two sections 3.5 and 3.6 that speak about this. 3.6 gives you a high level overview of what it takes to make sure that the wheel system is properly installed and operating.
Stephen;
I converted my 1978 IOR 34 from a tiller to a wheel. It was not easy, but it was worth it to me. I used the Edson CDI system, with an arm on the rudder post and a drag link to the pedestal, and a 44 inch wheel. The previous owner raced the boat extensively with the tiller and was shocked by how much of the rudder feel was still present in the wheel.
The CDI system comes with a built-in brake in the wheel hub. While single-handing, I have actually used the brake to lock the wheel and steer the boat while I went up to the foredeck to change sails. The brake will hold the boat on course for more than a half hour if sails are trimmed right. I could never accomplish this by lashing the tiller.
The usable space in our cockpit is greatly increased with the wheel, and it's a lot easier to see the crew, sails, and what's going on. tacking is much more pleasant as I watch the boom swing in front of my face rather than hitting me on the top of the head as I ducked and switched sides with the tiller.
Issues (Cons) that I had with the conversion were:
The scuppers interfered with where the arm needed to be placed on the rudder post. I had to re-route it - which involved sawing through the deck and re-glassing the port side cockpit dran area.
Edson doesn't make a engine throttle and clutch control for the CDI system that will operate an Atomic4. Until I relocate the engine controls, I have to sit on the starboard seat, in front of the wheel, with my left hand on the wheel, and my right hand on the throttle. Relocating the engine controls from forward in the cockpit to put them behind the wheel will be a big, fiberglass-infested project.
The cockpit was not completely symetrical. Even though I very carefully positioned the pedestal in the center of the cockpit floor, the large wheel interferes with a 10" winch handle on the port sheet winch - I have to use an 8" handle. The starboard winch is fine.
Cutting the large hole in the cockpit floor was certainly intimidating. It was necessary to grind the underdeck back and glass the entire circumference to encase the balsa in the deck.
The wheel system only added about 12 lbs. to the boat, but when I position myself behind the wheel the balance is effected. In light conditions, I have to steer from the side or front of the wheel for optimal performance.
Drilling the 1/4 inch hole through the typically Ericson over-designed stainless steel rudder post took me three hours with oil to lubricate, water to cool the hot bits, and several different expensive carbide bits.
The conversion was expensive, but mostly becuase I chose expensive options. My 44" wheel cost three times as much as a 20 inch wheel. The CDI system is 1.5 times the wire rope system. Also I had the arm on the rudder post shortened. These three options give me the rudder feel I wanted to preserve.
In the end, I like the boat quite a bit better, and it was a lot less expensive than trading up.
Good Luck with your project.
Steve
I converted my 1978 IOR 34 from a tiller to a wheel. It was not easy, but it was worth it to me. I used the Edson CDI system, with an arm on the rudder post and a drag link to the pedestal, and a 44 inch wheel. The previous owner raced the boat extensively with the tiller and was shocked by how much of the rudder feel was still present in the wheel.
The CDI system comes with a built-in brake in the wheel hub. While single-handing, I have actually used the brake to lock the wheel and steer the boat while I went up to the foredeck to change sails. The brake will hold the boat on course for more than a half hour if sails are trimmed right. I could never accomplish this by lashing the tiller.
The usable space in our cockpit is greatly increased with the wheel, and it's a lot easier to see the crew, sails, and what's going on. tacking is much more pleasant as I watch the boom swing in front of my face rather than hitting me on the top of the head as I ducked and switched sides with the tiller.
Issues (Cons) that I had with the conversion were:
The scuppers interfered with where the arm needed to be placed on the rudder post. I had to re-route it - which involved sawing through the deck and re-glassing the port side cockpit dran area.
Edson doesn't make a engine throttle and clutch control for the CDI system that will operate an Atomic4. Until I relocate the engine controls, I have to sit on the starboard seat, in front of the wheel, with my left hand on the wheel, and my right hand on the throttle. Relocating the engine controls from forward in the cockpit to put them behind the wheel will be a big, fiberglass-infested project.
The cockpit was not completely symetrical. Even though I very carefully positioned the pedestal in the center of the cockpit floor, the large wheel interferes with a 10" winch handle on the port sheet winch - I have to use an 8" handle. The starboard winch is fine.
Cutting the large hole in the cockpit floor was certainly intimidating. It was necessary to grind the underdeck back and glass the entire circumference to encase the balsa in the deck.
The wheel system only added about 12 lbs. to the boat, but when I position myself behind the wheel the balance is effected. In light conditions, I have to steer from the side or front of the wheel for optimal performance.
Drilling the 1/4 inch hole through the typically Ericson over-designed stainless steel rudder post took me three hours with oil to lubricate, water to cool the hot bits, and several different expensive carbide bits.
The conversion was expensive, but mostly becuase I chose expensive options. My 44" wheel cost three times as much as a 20 inch wheel. The CDI system is 1.5 times the wire rope system. Also I had the arm on the rudder post shortened. These three options give me the rudder feel I wanted to preserve.
In the end, I like the boat quite a bit better, and it was a lot less expensive than trading up.
Good Luck with your project.
Steve
Since you asked for opinions, here's mine. Unless you have
a very good reason for doing so, I think converting over
to wheel steering on a little 28 is a huge waste of money
and time. What do you gain by it? Other than cluttering
up the cockpit with the pedestal and wheel, you actually
lose the great feedback you have now.
Martin
a very good reason for doing so, I think converting over
to wheel steering on a little 28 is a huge waste of money
and time. What do you gain by it? Other than cluttering
up the cockpit with the pedestal and wheel, you actually
lose the great feedback you have now.
Martin