Topside enamels ?

[Stugy]

Hello, I was wondering if anyone has a preference for topside enamels that are one part polyurethane? I am going to give my hull a fresh coat of blue paint. I am looking at either Interlux Brightside or Toplac in the flagblue shade.
Using the roll and tip technique. If you have painted your hull with either one I would LOVE to see pictures of the final result and your thoughts or tips for a decent paint job.

Thanks !.

 

[NateHanson]

I'm about to do my decks and topsides with Sterling 2-part LPU. I can't offer tips on technique because I haven't done it yet, but in researching the project I found a couple people that were dissatisfied with the 1-part paints. They said it rubbed or scratched off very easily. Even if it stayed in place, it lost luster in a couple seasons. I figured if I'm going to the trouble, I wanted it to last longer than that, so I opted for 2-part.

Nate

 

[windjunkee]

I used both the Toplac and Brightside paints. I used the blue Toplac for the stripes on the hull when we hauled out last year. I brushed it on. It came out very smooth. Only I can notice were there are remaining brush strokes because I'm the one who did the painting. No one else can. I can clean and polish the area and it shines right up. The only chipping occurred when we were in close contact with another boat (their fault, not ours -- leeward rights), but I was able to touch it up and you can't even tell where the impact was.

I used Brightsides for the cabintop and cockpit. Voice of Reason is a 1970 vintage E-32. I wasn't going to spend another $8k painting her so I brushed it on and it turned out really well, though its not as good a paint as the Toplac, but I also covered more area. I have had to touch up where the clew of the headsail comes across the foredeck because it scratches the paint there. I know the one part paints are way easier to work with than the 2 parts. The painting makes a world of difference in appearance. I haven't had any trouble with it fading. Its smooth and shiny and cleans up really well.

I also used the Interlux "Interdeck" for the non-skid. The non-skid areas looked really ratty when we bought her. The painting really cleaned it up. However, I chose the "Cream" color for the deck and it turned out looking really yellow. It is ok, but I'm not real happy with it, so I'm going to be repainting with beige.

Each of the paint jobs are less than a year old, so I can't offer an opinion on performance over time.

hope that helps.

Jim McCone
Voice of Reason E-32-2 Hull #134

 

[Mike Thomas]

Topsides

Stugy,

On my previous boat I used the Interlux Brightsides (midnight blue), rolled and tipped. It came out great, was easy to clean and looked good for years. The only thing that I didn't like was that we also did the cockpit in white. I found that it was hard to keep clean and seemed to attract dirt. It felt like I was constantly washing it. I promised myself that I would never own another boat with a painted cockpit/top sides. I rather do what ever it takes to get the gel coat back or re-coat it.

Either way, the paint your looking at is good and the method your thinking about works.

Mike T

 

[Stugy]

Hi Mike and Jim, Thank you for the positive feedback! I am JUST planning on painting what is already painted which is the hull only. I know if I do the topside (deck and cockpit) I may open a can of worms so I will leave that alone as it looks good in the natural fiberglass color. The previous owner painted the hull using the same method and I assume he used a one part Polyurethane. In any event I think if I just sand the paint with 220 all around and wax and degrease with lacker thinner It may be sufficient and ready for a coat of fresh paint to be applied. I think I will be happy if I can get at least 2-3 years out of it then re-do the same thing.

Michelle.

 

[NateHanson]

Degrease BEFORE you sand. Otherwise wax, oil, etc will get permanently ground into the scratches in the hull. I use a "fiberglass prep - mold release remover" type product for this step, sand, and then wipe with acetone before painting or fiberglassing. Maybe the acetone would do for both, but I live in fear of a perfectly faired fiberglass repair, or a flawless paint job peeling away where it didn't properly adhere to the substrate.

Nate

 

[bigtyme805]

My recommendation would only be two part poly. I have heard of workers doing rolling and tipping with this paint and looking as good as sprayed on. You will need 2 guys doing this method. The one part is not durable enough for the hull. If you rub the dock you will remove paint and the shine won't be there after a year or so.

If you are going to do it right then use the 2 part....

Good luck in whatever decision you make.

 

[wurzner]

I used toplac for my shear stripes and was very, very satisfied with the results. Also, it is not as weak as some of the post have eluded to based on my experiance. That said, a two part is certainly going to be stronger. Some folks on my dock painted the topside with a two part and it flashed off at different rates and looks really bad. They are very meticulous and spend weeks doing it, but it is hard to say if it was them or the paint (I believe it was an interlux product). I know they had the local rep come down and they offered to provide free paint. They declined based on the time it took to remove all the deck hardware, etc. The boat we purchased was from SF Bay and I opted to spend a lot of time with sanders, polishers, rubbing compounds, and sealants to work the original finishes. Boat from the south get a lot more UV damage that Pacific Northwest boats (no comments please), but painting would be a last resort only after exhausting other options. I believe John had his boat painted a last year and it looks great. I could see painting our 38 down the road, but that would be a 7-10K investment that is not even on the horizon yet.

Good luck
shaun

 

[Stugy]

She is all painted..!

Well I just finished painting the hull, I used Interlux brightside and I have to say the results have surpassed my expectations. I painted it using the roll and tip technique, although I found that using just the brush would give me a better result.
I did a trial run on the stern (it came out horrible).
The roller quickly desintegrated and left all these tiny pieces of foam in the paint. I tried another roller (phenolic cored) with bad resuts also.
I found the secret is in the thinning of the paint. I used Interlux 333 brushing liquid. When thinned to right proportion it will flow to a perfect finish with no brushing marks. Once I mastered the technique on the stern I moved to the rest of the hull.

Here are a few pics of the final result. ( the white streaking is the rubrail running down the hull) I need to find a way to seal it to prevent it from running when it rains.

 

[wurzner]

Two Words

Wow and Sweet!

She looks great! Your posting will likely inspire a bunch of folks to break out the 303 and brightside and get to work. I'll likely try Awlgrip when I take it on since I'm with you, it is all in the thinning. That being said, I'd like to use a 2 part but there is no mistaken; your boat looks fantastic.

thanks for the thread.
shaun

 

[Emerald]

Hi,

She looks great. Nice work.

Interesting to hear of your experience on thining the Brightsides to get good flow - similar to mine. I have found in painting small areas, freshly wiping down the substrate with the 333 made all the difference on flowing out the brush strokes, and when I say freshly wiped down, I mean still slick and glossy with the 333 before it starts to flash off - can feel the difference in the way the brush moves across the surface - when it stops gliding, time for more 333.

Again, looks great


-David
Independence 31
Emerald

 

[Mike Thomas]

I'm glad to see it came out looking so great.
Thanks for the pics

It's amazing what you can do with patience, a brush and good paint.

Mike T:clap:

 

[Lyndy]

Painted topside beware

Hi,
We have a 1974 32 foot Ericson. Five years ago we painted her with Brightsides. It turned out beautiful and held up great. Even with our beginning sailor bumps into docks. One thing to look out for however. This past winter we had the boat shrink wrapped. It has been shrink wrapped in the past but only down to the rub rail. This year the boatyard took the wrap all the way to the waterline. BIG MISTAKE! The paint blistered every where the shrink wrap was in contact with the paint. We didn't know it, but now find out you should NEVER shrink wrap a painted boat down over the hull. The whole boat needs to be repainted. Unfortunately for us the boat yard is not going to stand behind their work and although we are getting statements from other shrink wrappers, marinas, shrink wrap companies and Interlux, our lawyer says that even if we win in court we will probably not be ahead. The boat yard is claiming paint failure. If anyone knows of anyone out there that has any knowledge or expertise in this area that can help us, we would greatly appreciate all the help we can get. A word of warning to all those who have painted boats....BEWARE OF SHRINK WRAP!

 

[Stugy]

Hi, Thank you for the warning I was not aware of the shrinkwrap/Paint problem. I will keep that in mind.
However I have never shrinkwrapped it before.
Well good luck with your case..!

 

[treilley]

What boatyard?

Your insurance co. may be able to help you.

Tim R.

 

[Jeff Asbury]

Meguiar's Flagship Vinyl and Rubber cleaner

Meguiar's Flagship Vinyl and Rubber cleaner helps with that stuff that powders off the rub rails. Seals it for a while. Kinda like Armor All. Got to do it about monthly though. Just glad I have white hulls. I do have a blue trim stripe that it shows up on. Beautiful paint job Michelle. What a horror story about the shrink wrap! Say away! I just waxed and buffed my hull and the port side is starting to show where the gel coat is thin. She does shine for the time being.