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If those are old mounts, like over 20 years, please do replace them. This is a great opportunity to do that chore.Didn’t change the mounts as they seemed ok. Onwards tomorrow and hope to work on the alignment.
These jobs are always challenging and require lots of problem solving, but it sounds like you're doing a great job at it! Take it one step at a time, and before you know it, you'll be done and underway again. Good luck!Yet another complication! The new transmission is about 3/4” shorter than the old one, and doesn’t allow me to mate the coupling without water gushing in through the PSS shaft seal. Now it’s either a flexible shaft coupling in between, or what I’m just going to do now, which is dive to see if I can remove a shaft zinc to make it possible to possible to slide the prop shaft forward. Never seems to end…
Cheers,
Steve
A flexible coupler would probably solve the problem easily.Yet another complication! The new transmission is about 3/4” shorter than the old one, and doesn’t allow me to mate the coupling without water gushing in through the PSS shaft seal. Now it’s either a flexible shaft coupling in between, or what I’m just going to do now, which is dive to see if I can remove a shaft zinc to make it possible to possible to slide the prop shaft forward. Never seems to end…
Cheers,
Steve
If the coupling will mate you could loosen the SS collar on the shaft seal and slide it aft to the correct compression (3/4" I believe) providing the shaft will move forward enough of course. You are supposed to replace the set screws when loosened but you could do that when you get back to home port.The new transmission is about 3/4” shorter than the old one, and doesn’t allow me to mate the coupling without water gushing in through the PSS shaft seal.
Hi Steve,Hi Everyone,
An addendum to our transmission troubles posting. We’re still up here in Bella Bella. The engine is about to come out for the 4th time. We got everything back in, spent a day and a half doing the alignment meticulously. New engine mounts. New gear and throttle cables. Started up, engine was very smooth in neutral, but in gear at low revs it shook the whole boat violently. Turns out two things appear to be happening. 1. The new (different brand) mounts appear to be too soft. 2. The new transmission meant the whole engine had to come up on the mount posts by about 7mm. This allows the 5/8” studs of the mounts to move much more, hence the vibration. So our plan now is to re-install the old mounts, but shim them up to keep the engine lower on the studs.
Fingers crossed…
Cheers,
Steve Gabbott
E35/3 Silent Dancer
Gabriola Islnd BC
Steve,Thanks for your response Frank. Don’t think anything has changed re prop (maxprop) or the cutlass bearing (things were dead smooth before. Shaft spins very freely either uncoupled to engine or bolted up to the coupling. Engine very smooth at idle (unless revs very low), and dead smooth right up to full throttle in neutral. However as soon as in gear, the vibration is pretty extreme at lower rpm’s. As you throttle up in fwd gear, it gets a bit smoother , but you can actually see the engine hobbyhorsing for and aft on the mounts. So to me, either the new mounts are too soft, or the raising the engine higher for the replacement transmission has pushed the mounts to their height limits. We spent a long time on the alignment (a day and a half) which was difficult because of the pss shaft seal. The only way to do that is to centre the shaft in the log, make sure it spins smoothly, and fix it in place, then align the engine to that. Engine disconnected and ready to pull again tomorrow. Will re-install the original mounts shimmed up so the engine sits lower on the mount posts. Hopefully our theory is correct. Bella Bella is a nice place, but it’s high time to move on!
Cheers,
Steve
It sounds like your shaft alignment is way off. 7mm is a big difference when trying to align the shaft with the engine, shaft log, and strut/bearing.However as soon as in gear, the vibration is pretty extreme at lower rpm’s.