Universal m25-xp heat exchanger which model?

[dustintodd]

Does anyone know for sure which heat exchanger from Seakamp can be used to replace the one on my Universal M25-XP? The interweb provide conflicting advise. Seakamp wants a picture of it. Of course it's 5 hour round trip to where my 1989 Ericson 35' Mark 3 lives so will not have a photo before the weekend. Any help is appreciated.

- Dustin

 

[treilley]

That HE is 3"x13" and is Universal part #302631. I probably have a photo at home but they should be able to match one based on the above part number.

Why not buy the OEM HE? Can the old one not be repaired?

 

[dustintodd]

302631 or 299835

Definitely going with Seakamp version. Thanks for the info. The friendly folks at Torrenson suggested either the 302631 or the 299835 depending. Of course finding clear photos of both of those online is it's own challenge.

- Dustin

 

[treilley]

Ok. Those are both the same model HE except the one has mounting brackets welded on. All you really need to know about your HE is whether or not it has 2 hose clamps that go around the middle of the body. If it does, then you need the 299835. If not then you need 302631. There is really no way to know which your boat has because any boat of that era could have had either HE.

http://www.marinedieseldirect.com/universal/200142/heat-exchanger-new-group.htm

I believe the 299835 was an upgrade from the original 2" HE. The 302631 was likely a factory installed HE that came on the engine after a certain year. But even that could have been swapped out for the other since then.

So to answer your original question, either one will work properly as a HE but they mount differently to the engine and you must look at your engine to determine which is correct. Have someone local to your boat go take a look.

 

[Loren Beach]

What Tim said!
If it helps any, my '88 M25XP has the one with the two hose clamps holding it to the mounting plate that is, in turn, held down to the flat surface on the bell housing by two bolts.

I know because I have to remove both bolts and partly remove the hose clamps in order to move the HE slightly to starboard in order to access the dip stick on the transmission.
:nerd:

Note that with the passage of time and constant vibration, one or both hose clamps will break. (one of mine did...)

Loren

 

[SurabyaKid]

I'll second Tim's comment regarding checking out repair before replace.

I went though a leak problem on mine last week and a very good repair job was only $45 at my local radiator shop.

Pat
E26->"Pronto"

 

[dustintodd]

Repair job

I don't have the hose clamp system. I have the mounting brackets system so I assume 302631 is the right part. But the brackets have separated from HE but were clearly glued or welded in place once. So the HE is basically floating in the brackets arrested by the hose connections. Well at least it was floating in 2 brackets until this weekend. The leak is right over the bolt for one bracket and when I tried to back it out the head snapped off. The hot coolant looks like it melted everything in it's path so perhaps it ate the bolt.

So now I have the problem that it will never really be properly secured to the engine block again. Not sure what the implications are other then impact of vibration on hose connections. You guys have done a good job of talking me into the dragging it to a radiator shop. Of course now I am afraid to put any torque on the one remaining bracket bolt. I will be really screwed if that one snaps.

 

[treilley]

Either way you will need to remove the existing bolt and the broken bolt. Soak them both in PB Blaster for a couple of days and use an impact wrench to remove the good one. The other an easyout should take care of. Worst case you drill it and retap it.

I have heard of this failure happening on other HEs. Maybe you should buy the other HE and separate mounting plate and use the hose clamps.

 

[dustintodd]

Flushing antifreeze during HE repair.

Since I am taking out the HE seems like a good time to flush the old anti-freeze and replace. Perhaps switch to a propylene glycol based anti-freeze. Anyone have experiencing doing this or have thoughts on with anti-freeze formulation to use?[FONT=Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif][/FONT]

 

[dustintodd]

HE replacement - so far so good

I purchased a new HE made by Seakamp engineering model # 302631 through Torresen Marine website. I think the total was $329 for the part plus overnight shipping which was ridiculously expensive. Replaced all the hoses with help from my local boat store. Installed the new Seakamp HE and new hoses provided by my local boat yard. Drained the old coolant completely and replaced with Shell Rotella ELC coolant. I have not had a chance to bring the engine up to full tempature under load but my test while while tied to the mooring looked good.

One strange thing that came out of this. One of the mounting bolts for the HE snapped off. During the drill out of the snapped bolt I noticed the bolt hole goes straight through the housing (not from my drilling. The bolt hole I didn't touch goes through also). I am not sure what part of the engine these openings lead into but was shocked to find this.

Also the Seakamp model has a some what different approach to the mounting. The mounting arms are not welded onto the HE. They are held on by hose clamps. My old HE looked as if the arms were glued or welded on.

 

[treilley]

So it sounds like they are no longer selling the HEs with the welded brackets. That is good. It also indicates that you would have gotten the exact same HE regardless of which model number you selected.

The holes likely go into the bell housing. I would have to look at mine to confirm.

 

[Frank G]

I recently had to replace the heat exchanger on my Universal 25. When I talked to torrensen the said I would have to get the 3" diamater model instead of the original 2" diamater model. they had a "generic" verses the Universal model. the difference being the generic didn't have a finish paint on it. It came with brackets which were far different. So now I had a larger diamater model with greater heat capacity. Great.
It didn't fit into the area under my injection elbow above the engine. I fabricated a new bracket myself out of 1/4" steel plate from Home Despot, and then bolted the new stanless saddles which came with the heat exchanger. I fabricated it longer, and with a notch that I can now use with a socket and extension to easily remove the transmission plug.
Of course I had to get new piping to relocate my injection elbow too.
All in all a great big pain.
If I ever learn how to E-mail and post digital pics I could do a report on this project.
The next owner of my boat will appreciate this too.
At the same time I replaced all water hoses, oberdorfer impeller, and also a new thermostat, and also the alternator bracket upgrade kit. More pains there too, mostly in my back and shoulders, and cuts, scrapes...........

 

[tadslc]

Frank G-

Do you know what part number was on the HE?

I'd like the Seakamp # (assuming that was the replacement manufacturer), not the Torrensen #.

I took my HE off this weekend and was going to get it cleaned out (MP25) but may want to look into a 3" unit instead.

Thanks