Water Heater E32-200 1990
- Thread starter Hcard
- Start date
Two water heater tanks?
Frank Langer
1984 Ericson 30+, Nanaimo, BC
I'm guessing two water tanks, one water heater, and water isn't flowing, but I could be wrong.
If I'm right, could there be a block in the water tank vent hose? Do you have an electrical water pump that needs to be turned on, repaired (blown fuse, etc)?
Most water heaters have a tap at the back to drain it, so you could check to see if it is hot water in the water heater.
More information might allow us to give better advice.
Frank
If I'm right, could there be a block in the water tank vent hose? Do you have an electrical water pump that needs to be turned on, repaired (blown fuse, etc)?
Most water heaters have a tap at the back to drain it, so you could check to see if it is hot water in the water heater.
More information might allow us to give better advice.
Frank
I see. Basically a water heater has two hoses entering it to provide flow of hot engine coolant. They come from either the heat exchanger or the engine. Usually rubber. Sounds like your heater water is hot when the engine has been running.
Two smaller hoses exit the heater, one for hot and one for cold. Usually plastic.
There may be valves on the hoses. They should be set to provide flow.
Sometimes an air leak occurs, which is resolved by letting the water flow (usually with spurts) to get air out of the system. Start with the head sink. Sometimes it helps to put a finger over spouts of the foot pumps, which are also the overflows. That's because the foot pumps can admit air, and any air defeats the pump. Also, a broken or damaged fitting or plastic hose can admit air so that although the electric pump runs, no water comes out. Pump the foot pumps as the electric pump runs.
Air in the system is the common issue and just takes some fiddling and patience to resolve.
Beyond that, there can be check valves in the water service hoses, usually near the heater. If old, they may be clogged. Or the heater may be shot. But usually, not.
Do be sure there's plenty of water in the boat's water tank, of course. If insulted by the obvious, I certainly was when I realized my problem was that all the testing had emptied my tanks.
Two smaller hoses exit the heater, one for hot and one for cold. Usually plastic.
There may be valves on the hoses. They should be set to provide flow.
Sometimes an air leak occurs, which is resolved by letting the water flow (usually with spurts) to get air out of the system. Start with the head sink. Sometimes it helps to put a finger over spouts of the foot pumps, which are also the overflows. That's because the foot pumps can admit air, and any air defeats the pump. Also, a broken or damaged fitting or plastic hose can admit air so that although the electric pump runs, no water comes out. Pump the foot pumps as the electric pump runs.
Air in the system is the common issue and just takes some fiddling and patience to resolve.
Beyond that, there can be check valves in the water service hoses, usually near the heater. If old, they may be clogged. Or the heater may be shot. But usually, not.
Do be sure there's plenty of water in the boat's water tank, of course. If insulted by the obvious, I certainly was when I realized my problem was that all the testing had emptied my tanks.
One caveat-- similar to an electric water heater in a land dwelling, always be sure that the hot water tank on your boat is full of water when you energize the AC heating element (via shore power).
We heat the water with the AC resistance heating element sometimes, like the second or third day we are at a marina. The Admiral likes hot water for doing dishes.
(I dry them and store them away.)
We heat the water with the AC resistance heating element sometimes, like the second or third day we are at a marina. The Admiral likes hot water for doing dishes.
(I dry them and store them away.)
Hcard
Member III
I have two fresh water tanks, and i am not sure if both would feed the water heater. So far with both tanks open i dont get hot water. I cant se the back of the heater, is there a valve i should open?
I believe the starboard tank under the shelf in the lazarette feeds the water heater. There is a valve under the sink to select which tank, and the pressure water switch on the breaker panel needs to be on. There is also a switch on the AC side of the panel to turn the heater on when using shore power. There isn't a valve on the heater, at least not on mine. Let us know how you make out.
Clayton
Clayton
If your boat has two drinking water tanks, and it likely does, there will be a plastic set of manifold valves located under the galley sink area, usually accessible by open up a locker door. When you select either valve it will supply the pressure pump with water and then, downstream, all outlets and destinations, like your hot water heater. Our '88 factory installation did not have a valve on either side of the lines by the water heater, but I recall that there was a small check valve on one of the lines.
Hcard
Member III
Thank you!
Hcard
Member III
Dave G.
1984 E30+ Ludington, MI
Also check to see if a PO installed a WH bypass valve. Mine had one and it diverts the flow into the water heater directly to the "hot" output so you only get cold all the time when bypassed. You would see a short pipe/hose going between the in and out with valves at both ends.
Hcard
Member III
Hi Dave, many thanks for your reply. These are pics from the back of the heater. Seems the metallic hose you mentioned is there. What do i have to do to get hot water???
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Dave G.
1984 E30+ Ludington, MI
Hugo, It looks like both those valves are closed(bypass mode) currently. I would turn those 90 deg. so the water will flow through the heater and you should get hot water. Those look like Camco valves and if you look real close they should be labeled. I attached a link that should be helpful with correct orientation and what to look for.
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