What?? Diesel in the bilge?

[jmcpeak]

Wasn't there last week - at least 10 gallons - no leaks around any lines going to engine...

Tank had to have sprung a leak?

Only one other possibility; We were changing out the float style fuel sending unit for a new Centroid capacitance sender. We were using a vacuum to keep debris out of the tank when removing the old gasket. My daughter put the entire end of the vacuum into the opening in the tank. Could she have created a siphon effect somewhere?
But like I said, no leaks anywhere near any fuel lines or near the engine.

I was swearing like a sailor. It seems just when you get that oil/diesel smell finally out of the boat - boom - it's back again.

 

[treilley]

Aluminum fuel tanks usually start to give out after 20-25 years in a wet salty environment like a boat. Condensation from the hull causes things to corrode from the outside and water in the tank attacks from the inside.

Make sure you get every drop out. You will be removing diesel for years. Once it gets under the tafg it is almost impossible to get it all out. Use bilge cleaner when sailing so it gets in the nooks and breaks up the oil.

 

[Glyn Judson]

Ridding the bilge of diesel odor.

Jason, Several of us on the list have gotten good results from using Odorlos in the bilge after repeated cleansing to get the majority of the fuel and odor out. Glyn Judson, E31 hull #55, Marina del Rey CA

 

[mherrcat]

Doubt you created any kind of siphon effect. You probably have a leak in the fuel tank; most likely at the lowest point in the tank. My leak was at the front of the tank. You'll have to remove the tank. Berry Sheet Metal in Costa Mesa made some of the original tanks and is still in business, at least as of two years ago. He may have the drawings for your tank. There was also another company that made the tanks, but I'll have to take a look at the label on my old tank to get the name.

Oops, just noticed you are in Wisconsin. You could probably take the old tank to a good sheet metal shop and have them duplicate it.

When I replaced my tank I painted it using Interlux Perfection. Don't know if it will help but it looks great...

 

[Glyn Judson]

Berry Sheet Metal is alive and well.

Jason, You can contact Berry Sheet Metal at 949.548.3613, 764 Newton Way, Costa Mesa, CA 92627-4277. Glyn Judson, E31 hull #55, Marina del Rey, CA

 

[jmcpeak]

Well, definetly a leak.

Got the tank out, dropping it off at a fab shop to see if it can be repaired (this welding shop does pressure vessels, so he should be a pretty good judge) or if he has to fab up a new one.

I got in under the TAFG with with a hose and degreaser.

I have a plastic tongue & grove flooring which I can remove. Got 99.5% out, then sprayed down fabric softener - just kills that diesel smell.

Glad I just got a new bilge pump -
"When water enters the bilge and reaches a certain height (2-3/4 inches) a sensor turns the pump on.
After the water is pumped out, another sensor shuts the pump off.
The sensor's unique "field effect" technology is programmed to recognize the dielectric constant of water
only. In the event of an onboard oil spill, straight motor oil that enters the bilge will not turn the pump
on. It's part of Rule's continuing commitment to preserving our waterway."

My old bilge with a float would have pumped 35 gallons into the marina - not good.

Any ball park ideas for cost? If indeed he needs to fab one up?

 

[Loren Beach]

Well, definetly a leak.
Got the tank out, dropping it off at a fab shop to see if it can be repaired (this welding shop does pressure vessels, so he should be a pretty good judge) or if he has to fab up a new one.
Any ball park ideas for cost? If indeed he needs to fab one up?

It's been a couple of years or so, but I paid about $500.+ for my new fuel tank from Coastline, up in Bellingham, WA.
http://coastline-tanks.com/
This included a baffle, two cleanouts, and a sender for an electrical tank gauge.
Link: http://www.ericsonyachts.org/infoexchange/showthread.php?t=6303&referrerid=28

Loren

 

[mherrcat]

The new tank for my 30+ ran about $425 as I recall. If your shop tries to repair I hope they clean the tank out well first, otherwise big baddaboom...

Make sure they use .125 stock, the originals were .090 I believe and a little thin.

Don't know how your tank mounts, but mine had 5 aluminum tabs, 3 on one side 2 on the other. Make sure they get the tabs lined up straight (in the same plane); Berry didn't and I could only get two tabs on one side and one on the other screwed down directly to the hull, but it's enough to hold it.

 

[jmcpeak]

Don't know how your tank mounts, but mine had 5 aluminum tabs, 3 on one side 2 on the other. Make sure they get the tabs lined up straight (in the same plane); Berry didn't and I could only get two tabs on one side and one on the other screwed down directly to the hull, but it's enough to hold it.

I believe it to be the original tank and it was not screwed down.
Just had wood wedges around it and a nice snug fit. Hmm...

 

[jmcpeak]

It's been a couple of years or so, but I paid about $500.+ for my new fuel tank from Coastline, up in Bellingham, WA.
http://coastline-tanks.com/
This included a baffle, two cleanouts, and a sender for an electrical tank gauge.

Loren

Thanks for the link Loren. I sent them a note, well see what new vs. repair pricing is for both shops.

 

[mherrcat]

Here are some pictures (not mine) of some tank corrosion. Also attached is a PDF of the original drawing that Berry sent me and the cleaned up version that I did; the top view measurements for the fittings are my measurements from my original tank. The dotted lines on the sides of the tank drawings are what I was referring to about the tabs being lined up. On my tank this is what suspended the bottom of the tank above the inside bottom of the hull. You don't want the bottom of the tank sitting somewhere where it may be constantly in contact with water.

The original tank was actually made by:

Custom Marine
7573 Slater
Huntington Beach, CA 92647

Don't know if they are still in business.