Wiring for autopilot - 1979 Ericson 29

fgmjrmorton

Junior Member
Hi all,

I need some advice! I am in the planning process for installation of a Raymarine SPX-5 Wheel Autopilot with P70 control head. In poking around, I can't for the life of me figure out how to get the wiring from one place to another. The electrical panel is located on the port side of the companionway above the icebox. Lacking a dedicated navigation area, about the only "good" place I can see to locate the autopilot computer is on the starboard side above the aft berth (on the wire race cover?).

In addition to getting wiring from the breaker panel to the starboard side, I need to get all of the wires from the pedestal guard, mounted on the bridge deck, to the site of the computer. I've looked at Christian Williams' blog regarding his installation several times, and except for the need to be a contortionist with exceptionally long arms, I didn't see any direction about where to lead the wiring.

I've thought about mounting a terminal block, a ground buss, and maybe a small fuse block behind the computer for computer power, GPS and NMEA 0183 wiring. Will I be able to use a single breaker switch at the electrical panel for both the autopilot and the control head? I have no spare breakers on the panel and will probably need to take something off and replace it with the autopilot. Either that or mount a separate small panel specifically for the autopilot. According to the information supplied with the Raymarine equipment, the fusing requirement for the computer is 15 amps (built-in) and for the control head 5 amps. Did you use a single breaker switch for both Christian? Another question I have is; where did you ground the autopilot computer?

Thanks in advance for any assistance!

Smooth sailing.

Fred
 

clp

Member III
Fred, I mounted my computer in the sail locker, very convenient. Grounded to the battery directly, used one breaker for it all, and did use a terminal block for the convenience of 0183 and power as well. It's a seamless operation there, as all my electrics are in there anyway. I'm going to have to check, but i think I remember using a 15a breaker for it all.
 

fgmjrmorton

Junior Member
Wiring-for-autopilot

Hey clp,

Thanks for the quick reply. Where is the "sail locker" where you mounted your computer?
 

Loren Beach

O34 - Portland, OR
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
I put the control head on the cockpit combing for easy reach from the helm/driving position.
The computer was located inside the boat, and I had to find a spot where I could get at all those little tiny wire connections on the bottom of it. Totally different interior, but FWIW I used a bulkhead beside the counter in our aft head.

Good luck,
Loren
 

clp

Member III
Aw, there seems to be so many names for things I often get backwards. The cockpit locker, or lazarette? Mine is very dry in there, and I could not imagine stuffing a sail in it. Inside already exist a water heater, reefer, battery charger, inverter, and liquor still. It's kind of neat though, as it puts everything in one place, basically behind the panel that is over the sink anyway. A logistical nightmare that would take another mechanic or owner hours to figure out.
 

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clp

Member III
Another shot..
(Pre calibration)
 

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toddster

Curator of Broken Parts
Blogs Author
I haven't discovered any efficient way to route wires from port to starboard on the E29. Some lighting circuits and speaker wires go all the way to the chain locker and back down the other side. (I moved my main panel to midship-port) The PO chose the other way and had wires going (more or less) inside the coamings all the way aft and back up the other side. But I avoided that route because without access, there is no way to secure the wires. They were just laying loose around the fuel tank. (I've since added deck plates to gain access to those spaces.)

Personally, I'm trying to get all electrical devices out of the sail locker. Or if it must be in there, have it in panels that can tip out into the cockpit. I'm sooo tired of crawling into there. There is a lot of wasted space inside the coamings. Maybe a good place for a recessed panel similar to this:
gauge4.jpg

Right now I'm looking for a new location for the autotiller plug-in socket. Some place where it won't get tripped on (and broken) any more. :rolleyes:
 
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Christian Williams

E381 - Los Angeles
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
Will I be able to use a single breaker switch at the electrical panel for both the autopilot and the control head?

The P70 needs its own power, so I used a breaker for that. The computer is fused and doesn't need a breaker (it will also provide 12v for the drive motor).

where did you ground the autopilot computer?

Direct to the negative post on the battery. But It could also just go to a negative bus bar.

As for wire runs, I'm not familiar with the E29, and from Toddster's remarks it sounds like my boat was easier--the 32-3 factory wiring goes from the engine panel and binnacle on a course under the cockpit, past the engine, through the battery box and into the DC/AC panel. I just used that run.

Try to mount the computer indoors where you can get at it easily. It isn't waterproof or robust, and is the nexus of many small wires. It isn't ugly to look at on an interior bulkhead.

If dealing with the Very Small Wires of NMEA, GPS, AIS and VHF, a dedicated connector strip is very useful.

And for those Very Small Wires some new termination techniques are required, which are touched on in my panel reorganization write-up. The key is using 18-22 gauge Clear Seal ring connectors with a good crimper.

Let's face it, adding electronics to older boats is seldom simple unless you do it with roofing nails and duct tape. It often becomes an "opportunity" to clean up a long-standing wiring mess.

But here's the good news: I am very pleased with the SPX-5 with P70.

I can now keep it steering accurately in almost any wind, the key being sail area and set. I have conquered the infuriating over-anxious motor grinding noise by adjusting rudder gain and other settings. I have learned the points of sail on which I can reduce the Response Level (1-10 with the P70) all the way down to One, which reduces power draw and motor movement to almost zero.

The cost is relatively little for an autopiloting system, and gain, despite what can be a tedious installation, is well worth the trouble.

There is an interesting Youtube video entitled something like "Installing the Raymarine is a Breeze!" He did it in a weekend.

It looks like crap.




 

toddster

Curator of Broken Parts
Blogs Author
. The computer is fused and doesn't need a breaker (it will also provide 12v for the drive motor).



The on-board fuse(s) will protect the device, but you still need a breaker to protect the wires running to it.

It sounds as if they have incorporated into the device the kludge that I had to create in order to put all of the seatalk (version 1.0) devices on one breaker. That is, my ST bus (which is a terminal strip, located behind the instruments) is fed from the panel, through a breaker. Power is passed directly to the autotiller, but the instruments require lower amperage protection, so there is a jumper with an in-line fuse between the +12V feed and the instrument terminals. (Pictured, poorly, here.)
 

clp

Member III
Yeah, I saw the onboard fusing, But like said, with the flip of a breaker, autopilot, the power on the buss, and the control head all go dark. Even when I adamantly tell people every day to just keep it simple; oh hell no. It's never just perfect enough. I mean, why not LED courtesy lights for the panel. Aw, why I'm at it, I'll put 'em on the helm too. Why I've got the entire pedestal now tore all to hell, wouldn't it be nice if that outside speaker would do double duty as a VHF extension speaker. Automatically switched of course. You get the idea. Don't do as the idiot. Incredibly simple device. It wouldn't be a problem doing a basic install in a weekend, and after the first one, it only takes a couple of hours. I've gotta install another one this week. Oh but of course I'll bemoan to the owner what a bear of a job it is.;)

Nah, the onliest 'bear' about it is pulling wires through the pedestal tubes. I hate doing that, but if it were easy and fun, people would be buying tickets to do it..
 
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toddster

Curator of Broken Parts
Blogs Author
LOL. True. When I'm doing wiring (or anything else) in my own house, I agonize for hours over exactly the perfect location for each switch or fixture. (But what if I want to put a wet bar by the pool table some day?) When I've wired other people's houses... outlet every six feet. Bam. Switch by the door. Bam. Move on.

(Er... some of us are twisted and weird enough that this stuff IS easy and fun.)
 
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clp

Member III
Todd, we might be drinkin' the same water..


And like you, I would rather eat a snake than go down that hole. But I've already made a deal with the devil. Again..
 

windjunkee

Member III
On a similar note, I'm installing the Simrad AP24 Auto Pilot system on Voice of Reason. I have a place for the computer to be installed and a place for the instrument. My question is in the drive unit.
I'm tentatively planning on buying the hydraulic "HLD 350 Mk2" drive head and installing it back in the cockpit locker somewhere, where the arm can reach the steering quadrant. I haven't figured out exactly where to put it, but the options are limited. However, they also have a drive called the DD15, which is electromagnetic, rather than hydraulic, and installs directly behind the shaft. The literature says the DD15, also called a "pancake drive" is a little more powerful than the hydraulic, has an easier feel (i.e. minimal resistance when it is not engaged) and draws less electrical power, but it requires the AP24 computer (about $400 difference) and the drive unit cost difference is around $600.
I think putting a hydraulic drive unit is smart for rough, offshore, shorthand sailing as it is an "overbuild" for an E-32, but I think for piece of mind on an 8 day off shore race its worth the $4500 investment. I just don't know whether the additional expense for the step-up computer and electro mag drive is cost effective or not. I'm already stretching the budget to put the hydraulics in there.

Jim McCone
Voice of Reason E-32 2 Hull #134
Redondo Beach, CA
 

Christian Williams

E381 - Los Angeles
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
Jim, as the conversation continues let us know the battery bank/charger setup that will power the new autopilot (note my clever technique of dodging accusations of thread creep...).
 

fgmjrmorton

Junior Member
Thank you all for the information. I learn something new every time I check in on this great site. I hope that everyone has a wonderful New Year.

Smooth sailing.

Fred
 
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