E35-3 replacing fuel tank

[frostbiter]

There are a couple of points leaking from the tank, enough to put a quart of diesel fuel in the bilge in the last month. So it's replacement time. When we tried to remove the quarter berth plywood over the tank, we've found it glassed in at several places. Hoping to hear from someone who has done this project and can offer guidance on the simplest way to get the tank out. Thanks!

 

[Christian Williams]

I used a circular saw set shallow to cut the perimeter of the top. As I recall there are biscuits in the glued "lid," and so just grinding off the fiberglass tape isn't enough. I don't know if your tank will fit through the companionway, on the 381 it's close.

Please put your boat model and year and engine in the Signature line.

E381 - "Thelonious II" -- Fuel Tank Inspection Ports -- Five-Minute Video

I use the engine to charge the batteries, and although there is solar capability on the new boat, I want the engine to run after rough weather has shaken the fuel tank like a rag doll and left arms, legs and little button eyes of ancient glop to...

ericsonyachts.org

 

[david poth]

I also have a fuel leak on my 35-3. Today I removed the quarter birth to expose the tank. Now I have to remove it. I don’t think it will fit through the companion way. What did you use for a replacement? I’m thinking I have to cut it up to get out. Did you have a custom one made smaller to be able to reinstall or is there another option?

 

[david poth]

And yes I did have to use a skillsaw around the perimeter of the top after I removed all of the teak trim.

 

[Dave G.]

If you have room & depending where the leak is you can repair in place with Epoxy and fiberglass. Most likely leaking at the lowest point under the fuel pickup as mine is doing. I have removed the fuel and cut a 6 x10" access hole in the top of the tank. Cleaned a bunch of sludge out and behold the tank was corroded through(see pic}. Unfortunately it's still pretty cold up here in the Great Lakes so I'm waiting on weather. There is another member who has done this successfully and still holding after 10 years! I also spoke to folks at West Systems and they say this is a viable long term repair. My tank definitely will not come out without cutting it up in pieces so this seemed to be the logical path to repair. Also if you haven't cleaned your tank before you'll be surprised at the gunk that is in the bottom. You may have to cut additional access holes if you have baffles to clean the entire tank. Attached is a pic of the area in my tank that failed, it's about a 2" square area right in the front.

 

[david poth]

That sounds much better than cutting it up. Are you talking about fiber glass on the inside of the tank or the outside? Or both?

 

[david poth]

And yes mine does look like it leaks from the lowest front corner.

 

[Dave G.]

Repair from the inside only. I think you'll need a big enough access to get your arm(s) in and still be able to see what your doing so I went with with a rectangular hole of 6" x 10" centered over the spot & about 3" from the front to clear the fuel lines and leave room for a plate to overlap an inch. Below is the email from West regarding prep and application process.....

We offer a two-part toughened epoxy called G/flex Epoxy that would be a good option for your application. G/flex is formulated with a high tensile elongation and will bond well to many substrates including aluminum. G/flex has been used many times to repair leaking diesel tanks successfully. We offer G/flex in two versions: 650 and 655. The liquid version G/flex-650 has a viscosity similar to honey and the thickened version G/flex-655 is similar in consistency to gelled toothpaste. For best adhesion we recommend cleaning the tank with solvent like acetone or lacquer thinner and paper towels. Add solvent on paper towel and wipe multiple times to make sure the tank is clean of any fuel. Then sand the aluminum with 60 - 80 grit. Wipe surface with a new microfiber cloth to prepare for epoxy. We recommend coating the aluminum with G/flex-650 and then apply a layer of 6 - 10 oz. fiberglass cloth. Apply more G/flex-650 with a stiff bristle brush and then apply another layer of fiberglass over the area. Apply more epoxy as needed to properly wetout the fiberglass cloth. The fiberglass should extend at least 2 inches each side of the seam that is leaking. So the width of the fiberglass layer would be 4 inches and extend 2 inch beyond the end of the seam/crack. Using the application technique and epoxy method above will be a permeant long term repair. Taken the time to make sure surfaces of the aluminum are cleaned well and sanded aggressively with 60 - 80 grit will offer the best results.

If you have any other questions please let us know.

Best regards,

Don Gutzmer | Technical Advisor
Gougeon Brothers, Inc.

WEST SYSTEM | 866-937-8797
PRO-SET | 888-377-6738
ENTROPY RESINS|310-882-2120
PRO-VAC USA | 989-671-9900

 

[david poth]

Great information. Thank you. I’m going to cut the additional inspection ports , so I can clean the entire tank and make sure that there are no other places of possible corrosion. Headed there on Friday.

 

[Shaggy]

Howdy, David -

One of many threads on the subject including my experience several posts in...

E-38 Fuel Tank

Anyone know of a source for a new Tank? Apparently mine has developed a slow leak. Considering repair? Mostly for time frame. Really don't need the 60 gallons, although if I ever do go cruising it would be nice to still have that much. Wouldn't hurt to have a little more storage though...

ericsonyachts.org

Long story short, I only had to cut a small corner off to get the tank through the companionway. Had the new tank built to that slightly smaller size and only lost 2-3 gal capacity. Replacement tank will last another 25-30 years. It was worth the $600 to me.

As Loren wisely says, YMMV...

Best of luck on your project and please keep us updated...!

Curt

 

[david poth]

I decided to remove the tank. I was able to squeeze it out in one piece. I had to remove the sliding companion way sliding hatch. The tank is now at a welding shop for repair. I could not find a new replacement that would fit so hopefully a repair will last. I was able to separate the fiberglass tape from the sides of the tank and I cut the fiberglass at the rear so I could slide it back and lift it out. Really looking forward to getting the diesel smell out of the boat.

thanks everyone this is a great website

david. 1985 e-35-3

 

[Dave G.]

I know it's not a fun job so hopefully they can weld it up as new for another 35+ yrs ! I wish I could get mine out whole, so envious of those who can. Seems a lot of leaky tanks as of late. Guessing we have a pretty good idea of typical life span, 35-37 years ish. I'm sure like mine, yours and others there is a pretty small area in the lowest part of the tank that got eaten up by moisture trapped there for decades & the rest of the tank is as new structurally. Congrats on your progress and let us know how they repair it for future reference.

 

[Jonbabco]

Hi I have a 1984 e-35-3 —- with diesel fuel leaking —- wondering how many gallons of fuel i need to remove from my full tank?

 

[Nick J]

I have an '84 35-3 and I believe it's a 40 gallon tank.

 

[Prairie Schooner]

I decided to remove the tank. I was able to squeeze it out in one piece. I had to remove the sliding companion way sliding hatch. The tank is now at a welding shop for repair. I could not find a new replacement that would fit so hopefully a repair will last. I was able to separate the fiberglass tape from the sides of the tank and I cut the fiberglass at the rear so I could slide it back and lift it out. Really looking forward to getting the diesel smell out of the boat.

thanks everyone this is a great website

david. 1985 e-35-3

Hi David,
I'm glad to hear you were able to get the tank out without cutting it or the boat. How did the rest of the repair and re-installation process go? Is there anything you'd do differently? Any advice for another 35-3 owner embarking on this project?
Thanks,
Jeff

 

[david poth]

Jeff,
After the tank was welded and pressure tested the re install was the easy part, the hardest part was figuring out the removal. I can’t think of anything that I would do differently. The only thing I can say is to be careful when cutting the glass tape, i cut through a small portion of the glass liner the tank sits on . It was easy to repair before the tank was replaced. I used the same fiberglass tape to repair the over cut and re secure the tank.

cheers.

 

[Prairie Schooner]

Jeff,
After the tank was welded and pressure tested the re install was the easy part, the hardest part was figuring out the removal. I can’t think of anything that I would do differently. The only thing I can say is to be careful when cutting the glass tape, i cut through a small portion of the glass liner the tank sits on . It was easy to repair before the tank was replaced. I used the same fiberglass tape to repair the over cut and re secure the tank.

cheers.

Thanks David!

 

[david poth]

Jeff,
Also. I think that you can separate the tape from the tank without cutting it. Use a putty knife or chisel and the bond will release. This would make reinstall even easier and no worries about cutting liner.

 

[Prairie Schooner]

Quarter Berth Cover removal, E35-3


There was a bead of flexible caulk all along the outboard gap between plywood panel and hull liner, .75”+, but no fiberglass holding the panel down. I just sliced the caulk at the plywood joint with a blade. Screws were located all along the edge and were removed with little trouble. There was some trim with bungs in spots that required removal to access the screws holding down the panel. The screws in the area marked A took a little discovery.


I still ended up using a prybar more than I’d hoped. A few of the under-panel mounting strips were screwed from below. Marked B in photo. Those in the battery box were technically reachable if I’d stood on my head and maybe had an extra elbow. Those adjacent to the tank would have been impossible. They lead me to think the tank was installed before the cabinetry.

 

[Nick J]

Great work Jeff and Donna! I have a habit of removing bungs and screws only to find everything glued together. I typically give up after that, reinstall the screws, never replace the bungs, then spend the next few days convincing myself I don't need to access that area anyway. Your post gives some great info and inspiration. Hopefully I won't have to do this.