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Engine - refurbish or replace ?
- Thread starter K2MSmith
- Start date
kapnkd
kapnkd
Excellent point as well. When we went from our Atomic 4 to a diesel, we also added a special nylon spacer between the shaft and engine couplers along with checking our alignment. (We got it from the dealer who sold us the engine.)
Rocinante33
Contributing Partner
Kevin,
After a check of the alignment, if there is not improvement, the motor mounts could be worn so as to allow excess vibration. With that said, these Ericsons with the M-25 Universal and the 3 motor mount set up seem to be very prone to a harmonic vibration at a specific rpm range. It can be a nuisance but often you can adjust RPM only slightly and avoid the harmonic. You might be able to just live with it by doing that.
After a check of the alignment, if there is not improvement, the motor mounts could be worn so as to allow excess vibration. With that said, these Ericsons with the M-25 Universal and the 3 motor mount set up seem to be very prone to a harmonic vibration at a specific rpm range. It can be a nuisance but often you can adjust RPM only slightly and avoid the harmonic. You might be able to just live with it by doing that.
Kevin A Wright
Member III
From what you've described, just go sailing and don't worry about it. You probably have years left. When you get a problem, you'll know about it and then can figure out if it is an easy fix (new injector, glow plug, thermostat, etc.) or a major problem (lack of compression). If it ain't broke, don't fix it.
I just went through this with my M25 but had major problems (broken thermostat housing) which went down a rabbit hole (bad compression on one cylinder). I ended up replacing with a new Beta which ain't cheap (new Beta 30 was about $13K on the pallet with tranny, alternator, upgraded instrument pannel, hot water connections all included). I opted to have a young guy with much better knees than mine do the replacement this time and with his fees and yard fees (several extra months of yard fees as I waited for my engine) came to about $20k.
However I'm also rebuilding the old engine for resale. Rebuild kit for this Kubota engine block is around $500. They actually used sleeves in the cylinders which can be replaced. So plan to sell the old engine once redone and based on what I"m seeing should get around $6k for it, maybe more since engines on the shelf seem to be in short supply right now. That will really help offset the cost of the new one.
Hope you have many more years of carefree sailing on your old engine.
Kevin Wright
E35 Hydro Therapy
I just went through this with my M25 but had major problems (broken thermostat housing) which went down a rabbit hole (bad compression on one cylinder). I ended up replacing with a new Beta which ain't cheap (new Beta 30 was about $13K on the pallet with tranny, alternator, upgraded instrument pannel, hot water connections all included). I opted to have a young guy with much better knees than mine do the replacement this time and with his fees and yard fees (several extra months of yard fees as I waited for my engine) came to about $20k.
However I'm also rebuilding the old engine for resale. Rebuild kit for this Kubota engine block is around $500. They actually used sleeves in the cylinders which can be replaced. So plan to sell the old engine once redone and based on what I"m seeing should get around $6k for it, maybe more since engines on the shelf seem to be in short supply right now. That will really help offset the cost of the new one.
Hope you have many more years of carefree sailing on your old engine.
Kevin Wright
E35 Hydro Therapy
Diesels vibrate. Choose an rpm setting to minimize it. Also, fire some liveaboard musicians. They are the ones playing the pots and pans, the stove-burner grates, the stuff in the drawers, the lazarette lids and the marbles rolling around in the sink. Also, in my case, the oil lamps.
Diesels are loud. Insulate the engine compartment and perhaps the undersides of the lazarette lids. Place sound blanket behind companionway ladder.
True, a shuddering, unhappy diesel can need new mounts, drive shaft, coupling, cutlass bearing, shaft log, propeller and more. Thousands of dollars plus the boatyard-discovery multiplier and a haulout.
In most cases, though, vibration is just in the nature of a diesel, and the above can make a big improvement.
ericsonyachts.org
Diesels are loud. Insulate the engine compartment and perhaps the undersides of the lazarette lids. Place sound blanket behind companionway ladder.
True, a shuddering, unhappy diesel can need new mounts, drive shaft, coupling, cutlass bearing, shaft log, propeller and more. Thousands of dollars plus the boatyard-discovery multiplier and a haulout.
In most cases, though, vibration is just in the nature of a diesel, and the above can make a big improvement.
E381 - Engine Noise Suppression Upgrade, Ericson 381
I knew a music critic who bought a new high-end turntable and amp and passed me his expensive headphones to demonstrate. I listened and after a while cautiously said, "Joe, I gotta tell you, I hear a hiss." He replied: "If you do, that's your...
Frank Langer
1984 Ericson 30+, Nanaimo, BC
Yes, I added some closed cell foam weatherstripping around the edges of each locker, partly to decrease noise, but more so to keep rain and boat wash water from entering the lockers. It has worked well, and has lasted for years.
Frank
Ditto. Wish I had gone a bit wider for easier alignment but works great. I used 5/8 by 1/4 thick. I had to double it up in a few spots so I could have gone a bit thicker too.
McMaster-Carr
McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.
Wouldn't have thought of McMaster Carr for that. Damn, they have everything.Ditto. Wish I had gone a bit wider for easier alignment but works great. I used 5/8 by 1/4 thick. I had to double it up in a few spots so I could have gone a bit thicker too.
McMaster-Carr
McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.www.mcmaster.com
markvone
Sustaining Member
Hi Frank,
I assume you glued the weatherstipping around the perimeter of the LID where it will sit on the lower coaming/flange of the seat when closed?
Thanks!
Mark
Much of the closed cell foam uses peel-n-stick adhesive.
I have used some thin foam strips - invisibly - under the edge of our ice box lid for years to keep moisture (and ice) out of it.
For the seat hatch, it would have to be (about, sort of...) 3/4" tall. Just enough to contact the other mating surface, but not so much as to make the seat too hard to close all the way down and latch.
Many years ago, on a rough trip down to SF from Astoria ( 5 day delivery on a different boat) we were pooped during the night, and before the cockpit drained out, a quantity of water got in around the seat hatch and ran forward to the main bilge. We were chasing it with a large sponge as it sloshed back n forth just under the sole access. "Exciting" is one word you could use; there are others.
That boat should have had that seat gasket-ed or temporarily sealed with cloth tape, and the skipper chose to do neither. (sigh, and after being repeatedly asked to, as conditions worsened.)
Gale conditions for 36 hours, running, seas 19 feet, transiting Mendocino. I sometimes think bold thoughts and then contemplate having to deal with heavy conditions with smaller crew or even single handing on a "bucket list" voyage to Hawaii, and kind of cringe. Of course the 'weak link' in an Olson or Ericson is not going to be the boat.... it's always ...... Me.
I have used some thin foam strips - invisibly - under the edge of our ice box lid for years to keep moisture (and ice) out of it.
For the seat hatch, it would have to be (about, sort of...) 3/4" tall. Just enough to contact the other mating surface, but not so much as to make the seat too hard to close all the way down and latch.
Many years ago, on a rough trip down to SF from Astoria ( 5 day delivery on a different boat) we were pooped during the night, and before the cockpit drained out, a quantity of water got in around the seat hatch and ran forward to the main bilge. We were chasing it with a large sponge as it sloshed back n forth just under the sole access. "Exciting" is one word you could use; there are others.
That boat should have had that seat gasket-ed or temporarily sealed with cloth tape, and the skipper chose to do neither. (sigh, and after being repeatedly asked to, as conditions worsened.)
Gale conditions for 36 hours, running, seas 19 feet, transiting Mendocino. I sometimes think bold thoughts and then contemplate having to deal with heavy conditions with smaller crew or even single handing on a "bucket list" voyage to Hawaii, and kind of cringe. Of course the 'weak link' in an Olson or Ericson is not going to be the boat.... it's always ...... Me.
Last edited:
Frank Langer
1984 Ericson 30+, Nanaimo, BC
Yes, on the underside of the lid, so that when closed, it sits on the lip of the locker. It keeps out water, minimizes rattle, protects a bit if the lid is dropped or blown closed by wind. It's important to buy good quality closed cell firm foam or it won't last.
Frank
Does that product have a peel-off adhesive side, or do you have to stick it in place with your own adhesive?Ditto. Wish I had gone a bit wider for easier alignment but works great. I used 5/8 by 1/4 thick. I had to double it up in a few spots so I could have gone a bit thicker too.
McMaster-Carr
McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.
Frank Langer
1984 Ericson 30+, Nanaimo, BC
Mine did have the sticky back, peel off the white strip and stick it on, no extra adhesive needed.
Frank
Thanks, Frank. That's what I hoped, but I didn't see it in the product description. I'm going to order some right away - thanks for the tip!
I may have gone to the wrong link sorry, try this one.
www.mcmaster.com
McMaster-Carr
McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.
Farlander
Member II
Just keep the fuel filters changed, keep the diesel tank clean, service the items that need attention (fuel lines, hoses, belts, etc.) and change the oil and she will run forever. Don't fix it til it's broke, or you'll be broke. A repower is a can of worms. I've got a 50 year old Albin diesel that overheats every time it runs for more than 10 minutes. It's still in the boat, waiting for the day it finally blows up. Or maybe I'll fix it one day. Who knows!
racushman
O34 - Los Angeles
This is a really good thread. One point I'll add for all those that aspire to be self sufficient in maintaining their engines... do yourself a favor and buy Nigel Calder's Marine Diesel Engines book ($20 on Amazon)... pretty much everything I know I learned from that book.