30+ first boat

[Dave G.]

The 30+ is a great boat and points high with that deep keel. Fractional rig makes it easier to sail singlehanded as the head sail is a much more manageable size compared to a mast head rig. It's a pretty quick boat too and sails to it's phrf rating like a champ. I've won that last 2 club beer can season series so if you like to compete I think the deep draft is the way to go. Of course I may be a wee bit bias....

 

[Sean Engle]

I will be singlehanding (sic) most of the time. Almost all the time. Should I shy away from the 30+.

You can easily handle the E30+ on your own. You can handle the E35-3 on your own as well (I did).

Technically, you should be ready to handle any boat on your own - as the guy at West Marine once pointed out to me - as often those you're asking to do things don't/won't/cannot...and then you're caught. I single handed routinely.

//sse

 

[Dave G.]

He thinks the boat is a 1980. His daughter who has owned the boat for the last 4 years and is selling it has it listed as an 86.

Where is the traveler mounted ? Is it in the cockpit or on the the cabin roof ?

 

[Bryan29ny]

Where is the traveler mounted ? Is it in the cockpit or on the the cabin roof ?

Cabin rooftop

 

[Dave G.]

Cabin rooftop

Then it is most likely a 84 or later unless PO moved it.

 

[Dave G.]

Cabin roofto

Do you have a picture of the cockpit ? Also the there should be a stamped number on stern, starboard side. It will tell you for sure the year and month it was built along with model & hull #.

 

[Loren Beach]

Do you have a picture of the cockpit ? Also the there should be a stamped number on stern, starboard side. It will tell you for sure the year and month it was built along with model & hull #.

Yes, and the "HIN" will be stated on all official paperwork. Title, registration, insurance, survey, etc.

 

[Bryan29ny]

I’m driving down to give it an inspection this week. Monday or Tuesday. Do what I can to better educate myself so I can make the decision of whether or not I want to pay for a surveyor or walk. And this depends on an agreed price. The daughter who owns it now messaged me back and said it’s an 86 when I asked her about her tether staying it was a 1980. The father told me it’s the original universal 3cyl diesel. He said some Kubota parts will work on it. What model is this motor and is he correct? Can I save money getting these aftermarket parts online or from a Kubota dealer. But most important are they of OEM quality

 

[Frank Langer]

You are getting conflicting information from the father and daughter and I think some wrong info as well. I have never heard of an E30+ with an original 3 cylinder engine. They made a 2 cylinder 16 hp model 5416 fresh water cooled (preferred) and an 11hp model 5411 raw water cooled, those numbers usually printed on the engine. Parts for both are fairly readily available, and Kubota tractor dealers usually have lower prices for most parts than the marine dealers. But Kubota dealers won't have marinized parts like heat exchangers, so those have to be found elsewhere, but are available.
I don't know how much you would pay for this boat, but unless it's really cheap a survey is usually a good idea, though they rarely find all the potential issues. But these E30+ are good boats,
so unless there are serious problems or overpriced, they can be a good buy. We love ours, but it's in excellent shape.
Frank

 

[Bryan29ny]

You are getting conflicting information from the father and daughter and I think some wrong info as well. I have never heard of an E30+ with an original 3 cylinder engine. They made a 2 cylinder 16 hp model 5416 fresh water cooled (preferred) and an 11hp model 5411 raw water cooled, those numbers usually printed on the engine. Parts for both are fairly readily available, and Kubota tractor dealers usually have lower prices for most parts than the marine dealers. But Kubota dealers won't have marinized parts like heat exchangers, so those have to be found elsewhere, but are available.
I don't know how much you would pay for this boat, but unless it's really cheap a survey is usually a good idea, though they rarely find all the potential issues. But these E30+ are good boats, so unless there are serious problems or overpriced, they can be a good buy. We love ours, but it's in excellent shape.
Frank

She never told me what she thought the motor was besides saying it was diesel. I don’t think she knows much about sailing so she referred me to her father who called me. I looked at my notes I took while talking to him and he did say it was a 3cyl. He must be mistaken or the motor isn’t original They are conflicted on the year. I will take many pictures of the VIN/hull number and boat while I’m there and the numbers on the motor. Make and model of its on it somewhere. I can get the boat for around $8000. Pending survey if I take it that far. Im thinking she’s right on the year and it’s an 86. The traveler is on the cabin top but of course it could have been moved there. Is there anything else that distinguishes the early model 30+ from the later ones

 

[Frank Langer]

In my opinion that's a very good price for an E30+ unless it needs lots of work.
Frank

 

[bigd14]

Is there anything else that distinguishes the early model 30+ from the later ones

Late models have the traveler on the cabin top on molded pylons, chamfers on the cockpit seat edges, propane locker under the stbd stern seat (I think) and lots of almond formica in the interior as opposed to wood veneer surfaces. From the photos posted so far it sure looks like a late model (mid-1984 and later). HIN will tell for sure. Original motor is 2 cylinder Universal Diesel 5416 like Franks model or Universal M18 like mine (depended on availability I guess) unless a different model was specified by the original purchaser or replaced at a later date.

In my opinion that's a very good price for an E30+ unless it needs lots of work.

I agree with Frank $8k does sound like a pretty good deal if it's in typical condition for its age with no major issues. BUT, all boats of this age that have not had continuous maintenance and upgrades will have lots of common problems, and possibly some major issues that may not be readily apparent from the survey. Sorting all these out will require diligence on your part if you wish to have a solid, reliable craft. As Christian mentioned, you can spend more for a boat that has been maintained well and probably come out ahead. For an older boat like this, spending 1x-3x the purchase price and a LOT of time getting it fixed up can be expected. The rule of threes applies: any project you contemplate will take 3x longer and cost 3x more than expected. On a sailboat everything is connected!

Have the surveyor pay special attention to thru hulls, hoses, prop shaft seal and other items that can sink the boat, and plan on replacing some or all of them anyway. Also have surveyor look carefully at the strut for looseness and galvanic corrosion, run a rag under the edges of the fuel tank to check for leaks and wiggle the motor to see how the engine mounts are. Access into the back of the boat is difficult through the lazarette, but modifications can be made to improve access from the quarterberth if needed.

Post up photos of any issues you and/or the surveyor finds and this group will be happy to give you opinions about how to fix it, or tell you to walk away and find another boat.

One final, biased, thought: Ericson boats are worth putting money into. They are well-designed, well-constructed boats that sail really well, and they don't look like a "Clorox bottle" as others here have so eloquently described some of the other brands of that era.

 

[Loren Beach]

Sometimes it is a help to have an actual list of problem areas to use as a check-off guide. One of the best surveyors in our area, keeps this one available on her web site. (look for one tongue in cheek reference buried in it...)

faults, problems, water, clamps, scupper, sea cocks, electrical, bilge pumps, hoses, batteries, corrosion, fuel, tanks, blowers, engines, sanitation, ofors

 

[mjsouleman]

Topic: 1983 E-30+ Engine
UNIVERSAL DIESEL MODEL 20-5416 16 hp

 

[Tin Kicker]

This thread is about the veneer. Note in Post #6 I found a matching color material at Home Depot:

Veneer Removal / Repainting

The teak veneer on the inside of the cabin trunk is badly damaged. It’s coming unglued in spots and has some bad water damage around the opening portlights. My original renovation plan was to remove it and replace with off white Formica. However, was recently looking at it more carefully and...

ericsonyachts.org

There are numerous similar thread about rebuilding the port lights and hatches.

 

[mjsouleman]

Jamestown marine had an article of an owner who replaced all ports with acrylic a
ND used one of their adhesive products to form a seal. This caught my attention as no screws were needed.

 

[Tin Kicker]

Jamestown marine had an article of an owner who replaced all ports with acrylic a
ND used one of their adhesive products to form a seal. This caught my attention as no screws were needed.

Pretty normal for many designs back into the 1980s having no screws and they generally use something like DOW 795 building adhesive.

Boatworks today did a video of such an install several years ago.

 

[Jamessantroch]

You can easily handle the E30+ on your own. You can handle the E35-3 on your own as well (I did).

Technically, you should be ready to handle any boat on your own - as the guy at West Marine once pointed out to me - as often those you're asking to do things don't/won't/cannot...and then you're caught. I single handed routinely.

//sse

Ok