Haul-Out Best Practices?

[Martyn]

Next week I'm hauling out for the first time since owning my E-38. It's a 150nm to get down to the boat yard from where I live in Costa Rica and so I want to make the most of being on the hard (for as short a time as possible). I'd appreciate any advice on maintenance that should be considered while out of the water in addition to what I am planning on. Here's my list so far:

• Possible osmotic blistering at water line. Sand, inspect, hopefully no blistering, new bottom paint.
• Tune the propeller
• Replace the cutlass bearing
• Check through hulls and lubricate the sea cocks from inside the boat
• Drop the rudder and maintain the rudder assembly etc
• Possible re-align engine with prop shaft if necessary
• Double check the PSS shaft seal as its been leaking a bit

While I'm sitting around I thought I'd do winch maintenance and if time permits do some bright work sanding and re-varnishing.

Anything else I should consider? Thank you!

 

[Nick J]

Looks like a good list. If you're changing the cutlass and dropping the rudder, you may want to change the bellow on the PSS. It would involve separating the coupling from the shaft which can be difficult. Our surveyor noted there was a lot of shaft between the prop and strut and recommended I cut down the shaft which I ended up doing at the last haul out. If this is the case with your boat, you could just cut the coupling off and have a new one installed. This would make dropping the shaft easier and ends up with a better configuration.

 

[bigd14]

Check keel joint, and consider tightening keel bolts to recommended torque.

 

[Alan Gomes]

Possible re-align engine with prop shaft if necessary

This is best done with the boat in the water. When the boat is on jack stands it will deform somewhat, and the alignment might need to be redone after the boat has been put back in the water and popped back into shape.

 

[Christian Williams]

That's a big work list, so get as much help as you can.

The dripless shaft seal would be my priority.

 

[Dave G.]

The dripless shaft seal would be my priority.

Depending on age(if you know) of the PSS you may want to at least purchase the rebuild/maintenance kit which includes new bellows, o-rings, set screws, & clamps. You will need to get the shaft out of the coupler to install though and sometimes that can be a challenge in itself. You'll need to know your shaft & stern tube diameters to order the kit.

PYI Inc. | PSS Shaft Seal Maintenance Kit

It is very important that you inspect your PSS Shaft Seal regularly. PYI recommends getting a PSS Maintenance Kit every six years.

www.shaftseal.com

 

[Loren Beach]

If you are gonna change out the OEM thruhulls for new Marelon or bronze, this is the time to do that.
Above the waterline, those old OEM plastic thru hulls for drains are overdue for a change, but that can be done at the slip (with a bit more difficulty).

 

[Martyn]

Thank you everyone for the great feedback. I should have posted this question 2 months ago to give me time to order the PSS maintenance kit. I am hoping the boat yard carries these parts but not likely.

 

[Martyn]

This is best done with the boat in the water. When the boat is on jack stands it will deform somewhat, and the alignment might need to be redone after the boat has been put back in the water and popped back into shape.

For sure thats the plan, but hopefully not necessary as they want the boat to sit in the wet slip 24 hours before doing the alignment...

 

[Frank Langer]

For sure thats the plan, but hopefully not necessary as they want the boat to sit in the wet slip 24 hours before doing the alignment...

Martyn,
With a bit of patience you can do the alignment yourself once the boat has been docked in your slip for a few days. It would likely save you lots of money, and you could get it more accurate than what most boat yards will do. The variation should be no more than two thousands of an inch measured with a gap tool.
Frank

 

[Dave G.]

I am hoping the boat yard carries these parts but not likely.

Highly unlikely as there are too many sizes. It's a small package though so if you order quickly it may get there in time ? Also have a peek at your coupler and see if it's badly corroded. If so you may want to order a coupler while you're at it .......ye old can of worms applies here I think.

 

[Ralph Hewitt]

Hi, where are you now?
What boat yard are you going to?
Full steerage inspection cables, pulleys, chain, Quadrant... and All mountings close up!
What year is your boat?

 

[Pete the Cat]

Martyn,
With a bit of patience you can do the alignment yourself once the boat has been docked in your slip for a few days. It would likely save you lots of money, and you could get it more accurate than what most boat yards will do. The variation should be no more than two thousands of an inch measured with a gap tool.
Frank

I agree. Good boatyard help is hard to find and it seems to me to be very patchy these days. Aligning the engine (in the water) is frustrating the first time, but not difficult if you get some coaching (i think there are threads here).
. I would not pre emptively replace the cutless or drop the rudder without some indication of a problem. Cutless bearings can last a long time. Rudders if they are not loose should probably be left alone but lubricated on the internal zerk fittings. Nearly all blisters are cosmetic so can be a low priority depending on your time. The PSS thing is a big deal as a failure could be very problematic and impossible to fix without another haul. Getting the old coupling off (to get the PSS rebuilt), if it is rusted on and getting the bellows and repair kit installed is a fairly extensive job in itself. Make sure the through hull fittings are good and not leaking (especially if they are metal). And if your boat has one of those external covers over the engine intake--make sure it is removed, cleaned thoroughly and painted on the inside before it is put back. Have a priority to your list. I rarely get everything I would like to get done during a single haulout because I always find more unexpected urgent stuff to do when the boat is hauled. Planning is important, only goes so far.

 

[Martyn]

Highly unlikely as there are too many sizes. It's a small package though so if you order quickly it may get there in time ? Also have a peek at your coupler and see if it's badly corroded. If so you may want to order a coupler while you're at it .......ye old can of worms applies here I think.

yep all in progress! They are trying to order and send a new PSS maintenance kit ASAP.

 

[Martyn]

Hi, where are you now?
What boat yard are you going to?
Full steerage inspection cables, pulleys, chain, Quadrant... and All mountings close up!
What year is your boat?

I'm in Flamingo headed to Quepos tomorrow. I'll be at Pez Vela. Where are you? 1986 38-200

 

[southofvictor]

We are hauled right now and replacing cutlass bearing and PSS while we are out. Our engine‘s rear main seal is leaking oil so we have to pull the engine forward and disconnect the shaft to get access to replace it. While it’s forward we are going to pull the prop and bring the shaft forward to replace the PSS. Mechanic told me it can be a bear to get the coupler off and back on straight so better to avoid it since we have access anyway.

 

[Christian Williams]

Also, it is not uncommon to discover the keyway in the shaft coupling ruined after 30-plus years, which will mean a new prop shaft and coupler.

Resist boatyard recommendations to install thru-hull for irrigation of dripless shaft seals, I think for our boats the vent option is adequate.

PSS has good videos:

https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLEB5848273C2647B4

 

[Martyn]

Also, it is not uncommon to discover the keyway in the shaft coupling ruined after 30-plus years, which will mean a new prop shaft and coupler.

Resist boatyard recommendations to install thru-hull for irrigation of dripless shaft seals, I think for our boats the vent option is adequate.

PSS has good videos:

https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLEB5848273C2647B4

Excellent advice, thank you. The PSS is on order and I’m very very glad I asked this question and got so much emphasis on maintaining it. I sent pics of my PSS to the yard and their response was that it clearly looked beyond its useful life, so timing is good.

 

[Kenneth K]

If you put on a new PSS, it will have a built in vent line that allows trapped air to escape after the boat is set back in the water. If you rebuild the old PSS, remember to "burp" the PSS after launch, and before motoring.

 

[Prairie Schooner]

Also, it is not uncommon to discover the keyway in the shaft coupling ruined after 30-plus years, which will mean a new prop shaft and coupler.
. . . .

Good advise. This was the case when we pulled ours. We took that and the prop to a prop shop. Since we were adding a drive saver we had a little extra shaft length. The shop trimmed about an inch off and milled a key slot 180° from the old one. I don't know if this is standard, but supposedly they're professionals. They also checked that the shaft was true, as well as tune the prop.