PSS shaft seal on a E28

Special K

Member II
I am thinking of installing a PSS shaft seal on my 1986 E28. My questions are these:

Does anyone have one installed on a E28?
Did you need to drop the rudder to install it?
Any special issues in the install?
If installed by a yard, how much did it cost installed?
Did anyone install it themselves?

I got a quote that seems high and I need a reality check before deciding how to move forward.

Thanks for the information and advice.

Peter
 

Rocinante33

Contributing Partner
I like them. Some folks don't. Theoretically I have a dry bilge--unless it rains.

http://www.ericsonyachts.org/infoexchange/showthread.php?8570-Dripless-shaft-seals

Somebody's gotta get the rusty shaft coupling off and back on. I think I could do it, but it might take some time. Boat yards charge a lot for time.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3UvyF-NRooQ

Yes it is significantly difficult work to get that rusty coupling off!!! I did it in the last couple of weeks. PITA
 

AK67

Member II
Reviving this thread.

Would also like to install dripless and also replace cutless bearing on a 1986 E-28-2. Trauma bonded with my helpful boat neighbor over trying to remove the shaft coupling this past weekend. Not enough room to fit the coupling puller between the two coupling pieces, even when I removed the stuffing box hose; it is a fiendish design.

Options, as I see it (a) cutting off the coupling; (b) cutting off the stuffing box packing and gland nuts to try and get more space for the coupling puller to fit (with risk of longitudinal scoring of shaft and no assurance the puller will work), (c) cutting the prop shaft and getting a new one, or (d) removing the engine from the mounts to get space for the puller (requiring braun, brains, and realignment). I'm leaning towards (c).

Also, Peter/Special K, what did you ultimately decide on your PSS? Thanks for any guidance.
 

Loren Beach

O34 - Portland, OR
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
About couplings, having had a split version installed the last time around, it occurs to me to ask if there are variations in length from different vendors? Shorter would be far better in all of our boats.
We have "enough" room for the PSS seal in our model, but when I measured for possibly installing a CV type of coupling to really suppress drive train vibrations, I just did not have enough room.
 

Afrakes

Sustaining Member
Reviving this thread.

Would also like to install dripless and also replace cutless bearing on a 1986 E-28-2. Trauma bonded with my helpful boat neighbor over trying to remove the shaft coupling this past weekend. Not enough room to fit the coupling puller between the two coupling pieces, even when I removed the stuffing box hose; it is a fiendish design.

Options, as I see it (a) cutting off the coupling; (b) cutting off the stuffing box packing and gland nuts to try and get more space for the coupling puller to fit (with risk of longitudinal scoring of shaft and no assurance the puller will work), (c) cutting the prop shaft and getting a new one, or (d) removing the engine from the mounts to get space for the puller (requiring braun, brains, and realignment). I'm leaning towards (c).

Also, Peter/Special K, what did you ultimately decide on your PSS? Thanks for any guidance.
I believe that (c) is going to be your best option. I hope that the Yanmar is shorter in length than my Universal M-12. I had no room for a PSS. My raw water pump rests right up against the insulation on the engine cover. No room at all.
 

AK67

Member II
About couplings, having had a split version installed the last time around, it occurs to me to ask if there are variations in length from different vendors? Shorter would be far better in all of our boats.
We have "enough" room for the PSS seal in our model, but when I measured for possibly installing a CV type of coupling to really suppress drive train vibrations, I just did not have enough room.
After this experience, I will definitely be opting for the split coupling and will stick with the conventional stuffing box
 
Top