What's the most useful modification you've made....

[Howard Keiper]

Frank...

Here are some pics of the engine room mod I discussed earlier

 

[jkm]

Howard

That is interesting.

The inner engine compartment wall (separating the engine from the batteries) is that something you fabricated?

Would you post a picture of your fridge setup and Pedestal Guard for me

John

 

[Howard Keiper]

John...
That separation was there when we bought Sea Quest. It's a fiberous material, very soft, probably used for sound deadning. It lines the entire inside of the enclosure including the lid.

The refridge compressor mounts thwartships immediately ahead of the fuel tank. Note the louvered door.

In that photo you can also see the Vetus waterlift device that connects to the exhaust hose from the engine. The other end of the hose connects to the elbow on the engine...seen in previous photos.The two small hoses visible in the engine photos go to the anti-siphon device behind the setee and above the waterline.

 

[Howard Keiper]

John...
That separation was there when we bought Sea Quest. It's a fiberous material, very soft, probably used for sound deadning. It lines the entire inside of the enclosure including the lid.

The refridge compressor mounts thwartships immediately ahead of the fuel tank. Note the louvered door.

In that photo you can also see the Vetus waterlift device that connects to the exhaust hose from the engine. The other end of the hose connects to the elbow on the engine...seen in previous photos.The two small hoses visible in the engine photos go to the anti-siphon device behind the setee and above the waterline.

 

[Howard Keiper]

John..

Here's the compressor photo. Note the louvered door.

 

[jkm]

HK

Thanks for those pics.

One last question, did you simply put cold plates in the ice box?

John

 

[Howard Keiper]

I'm not exactly sure what a cold plate is, but I don't think that's what I have. The system ia a standard, garden variety Adler-Barbour(sp?) with what looks like (and is) an old fashioned freezer compartment mounted in the former ice box. I drilled small holes in strategic places, injected foam insullation to fill the various voids, then glued 1" foam to the underside of the lid...Nice installation,
has worked well for 20+ yrs. I don't have great battery capacity so I can go about 12 hrs without either pluging in or running the engine. I'm almost always in port so the beer is always cold.
hk

 

[jkm]

Howard

Back on the 10th of July I started a thread about "icebox thickness" and had many suggestions and advice.

I have two 'cold plates' by Norcold in the existing icebox.

I have lined the box with Reflectix which is plastic bubble wrap sandwiched between two sheets of aluminum. I installed two layers of very dense foam at the top of the box.

After my last trip I have disassembled the layers and want to install a second grate at the bottom to create a layer of cold (held in by a stopper) under the grate that will hold my products.

Before I put this together can you advise where you drilled holes and inserted expanding foam???.

Much appreciated as a cold box is the most important feature when I'm at Catalina.

One last thing (or two) my compressor is behind my electrical panel.

Can you also post a picture of your pedestal. Sorry to ask for so much, but I'm trying to get my baby 'just right'.

John

 

[Howard Keiper]

I used foam sheet at the forward part of the ice box, between it and the drawers. This, by the way, corrected a condensation problem that developed that made the drawers hard to open / close.
Re the injection hole placement: since the holes were no more than about 1/4", I figured they would be unobtrusive no matter where I put them so, I went for the spaces between the side(s) of the box and hull and anywhere else I could see (or couldn't see, actually) where there wasn't adequate insulation in the 1st place.

Pedestal pics attached.

One other thing: When we bought Sea Quest, there was a nasty crack in the non-skid over the stbd lazarette. It defied any and all attempts to fix it, so I replaced the entire problem with a small insulated locker, suitable for keeping things cold. It proved to be very handy. But what I wanted to show was that the nonskid is a veneer of sorts and very thick and substantial in it's own right.

hk

 

[Howard Keiper]

This is what the nonskid veneer mentoned previously looks like. Notice the general bulk of the decking.

hk

 

[jkm]

HK

Pictures are very appreciated.

I am always interested in what others have done with their E35s

Is that a battery switch I see on your control panel?

John

 

[Howard Keiper]

It was originally a blower switch. It went south years ago but left me with a strange shaped vacancy to fill on the panel. So, I simply gutted that switch assembly. put a new rocker (for low profile) switch in it's place, and all's well.
Incidentally, the meters are: OIL; AMPS; TEMP; and, very important, VOLTS.
Every control panel should have a voltmeter.
hk

 

[jkm]

HK

On my short list is to go thru all my guages. Just finished doing it on my TR4A and next is Penquin.

A voltmeter would be a nice addition.

I'm also thinking of removing, if I have one, any thermostat on my A4. Do you still use one?

John

 

[Jason]

Every control panel should have a voltmeter.

Don't forget - If you have any sort of modern GPS/plotter they have a built in voltmeter display - no need to go out and buy one. Just an FYI.

 

[Tadzik]

Some of mine...

My list of changes on my E29(bought last year) is quite long; here is just few of them:

- replaced fixed portlight in head with Leamar opening portlight(size1)
- custom made anchor roller,
- installed new Origo 4100 stove,
- installed new Jabsco toilet with new holding tank,
- installed new grab rails on dodger(port and starboard side),
- new teak steps on the swim ladder,
- modified stern rail with two seats ( guys, you would love it!).
- and many more...winter projects!::

Ted

E29 "Odin"

 

[Frank Langer]

Ted, those stern rail seats look great! Are they custom made, or did you buy them somewhere?
Frank

 

[Tadzik]

Thanks Frank,

I used brand new bow pulpit bought in one marina's flee market for about $20 US a piece. It fits almost perfectly vertical posts of railing as you see on attached picture . Another bent piece added to have extra support underneath the seat and welded up to horozontal rail. I made template from cardboard tracing outter edge of the seat and used King Board (.5" thickness) to cut out final seat top. Tools used: jig saw, hole saw, router for smoothing out the edges. As you see on the pictures, I decided to cut out section of the top rail and instead to keep strength welded connecting piece at 1 foot height. Coming out of dinghy or from swimming is much easier. Also I ask welder to add bent in C shape piece to keep BBQ far enough from my back.
Tommorow I'll be on the boat and I can take additional pictures if you are interested in copying my project ( no charge! )

Ted Pilipczuk
E29 "Odin"

 

[Frank Langer]

Thanks, Ted. This is a great modification. I'm sure others will want to add it to their boats as well.
Frank.

 

[footrope]

E38 Engine Control Panel Relocation

I haven't made any significant modifications to Pilot Project yet, but one of the previous owners did a very nice job of relocating the engine control panel. It was moved from the standard location on the backside of the starboard seat lazarette at foot level, up and aft to the cockpit coaming, with the top of the panel just below the top of the coaming. This move no doubt achieved it's goal of making the instruments and controls more visible and usable. I sure like it. Given all the overheating issues we read about, it's nice to be able to easily see the RPM and temperature gauges.

I don't know if the panel is the original. It has a polycarbonate (Lexan) cover that hinges on the forward side and clips closed via a catch on the aft side. It's a good thing it's not some other type of plastic, or metal framed, because the door has been knocked off a couple times by carelessly leaving it open while opening the lazarette hatch. It just snaps back in to the hinges.

I don't know if the wiring had to be extended or not. I would guess it did. It does not cause any issues for sitting on the coaming above, even though it is mounted as high as it could be. There have been no problems with water getting inside the panel or the lazarette. There is also a sunbrella cover that snaps over it.

 

[Greg Ross]

We moved LAYLAH (formerly Dina G) a 1980 Independence 31 Cutter up from Philadelphia last January. Since I generally work away from the home Province I have ample time to watch eBay (my main amusement actually while I'm waiting for a Total Hip Replacement)
I have managed to acquire many, many suitable "experienced" Items on eBay.
Projects completed this year;
Installed Harken Windward Sheeting for the Main.
Rewired the Mast and added Spreaded Lights (Bonus-the wiring circuit was already pulled to the foot of the mast at the factory)
Installed a Mustang (a la ebay) 12v Capstan including dedicated circuit.
Installed a Standard Horizon (I think it's a) Model 2360 with Ram + second station at the Helm.
Installed a Binnacle Guard and folding cockpit table.
Installed a Kelvin White Consellation (big) Compass (rebuilt with the assistance and advice from Viking Instruments of Mass.
Installed Dorades, head comp't and fwd. cabin (P & S)
Adapted a Boarding Ladder, the 4 step telescoping type, using West Marine Deck slot type brackets.
Retired the antique Schaefer Roller Furlers and for at least an interim will go with a modified sail plan constisting of hank-on Staysail and 90% Jib.
Material and components in hand and yet to be installed;
To-be Installed- thru-hull valves with bronze seacocks.
To-be Installed- JRC 24 mile Raster Radar (got as far as mounting the radome antenna bracket on the Mast last Spring)
To-be Installed- Standard Horizon 170C GPS MAP
To-be Installed- Dickenson Newport Diesel Cabin heater.
To-be Installed- Bomar aluminum dech hatch (15" x 23" clear opening) in the cockpit sole.
To-be Installed- to replace the wood fwd. hatch. a rebuilt Bomar Ocean Series low profile hatch (new lens, new slat shade, new screen frame, adding a second supp't strut-orig. only had one) (rebuild was this weeks' project)
To-be Installed- new 12v Paneltronics breaker panel and Blue Seas 110v
Future Plans;
Replace the Frigibar Refrigeration with new-(got it wet, don't ask)
Build a Butterfly Hatch for mid-ships, a la Gary Stoop's fine example.
Inverter, 1000 to 1500w
Probably go to a Tides Marine UHMW track and Sail hardware- a serviceable existing Main with the addition of full batons will be Ok for a while.

<a href='http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2006-1/1138028/BowSummer06.JPG'><img src='http://thumbs.villagephotos.com/18099091.jpg'></a>
<a href='http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2006-1/1138028/BinnacleGuardSummer06.JPG'><img src='http://thumbs.villagephotos.com/18099090.jpg'></a>
<a href='http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2006-1/1138028/Stbcabintopfwd.JPG'><img src='http://thumbs.villagephotos.com/18361393.jpg'></a>