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Tom Metzger
Sustaining Partner
250ft-#s would be a conservative torque value for a 1" stainless bolt. You can find lots of values doing a google seaarch.
Frank Langer
1984 Ericson 30+, Nanaimo, BC
There is a similar query on Sailnet (not as good as website as this one, 
but still some useful information). The responses there are indicating that the torque requirement will vary according to the kind of keel bolts used and the way the boat is constructed. The recommended amount varied from 75 lbs to 250 lbs for a 1" stainless steel keelbolt.
One also suggested that unless the nuts on the bolt had loosened for some unknown reason, there should be no need to re-torque the keel bolts. I think that is different from the advice I have seen on this and other sites, which seems to indicate that periodic retorquing is required as normal maintenance. Any comments?
Frank.
but still some useful information). The responses there are indicating that the torque requirement will vary according to the kind of keel bolts used and the way the boat is constructed. The recommended amount varied from 75 lbs to 250 lbs for a 1" stainless steel keelbolt.One also suggested that unless the nuts on the bolt had loosened for some unknown reason, there should be no need to re-torque the keel bolts. I think that is different from the advice I have seen on this and other sites, which seems to indicate that periodic retorquing is required as normal maintenance. Any comments?
Frank.
keel bolt torque
Frank,
Thank you for your input.
From your and Tom's comments, searching the net and the consideration that I have a strong built boat I think I am going to torque the bolts to 270ft.#'s on the four 1" bolts and 125ft.#'s on the one 3/4" bolt that is closest to the stern.
Regards,
Sam
Frank,
Thank you for your input.
From your and Tom's comments, searching the net and the consideration that I have a strong built boat I think I am going to torque the bolts to 270ft.#'s on the four 1" bolts and 125ft.#'s on the one 3/4" bolt that is closest to the stern.
Regards,
Sam
Frank Langer
1984 Ericson 30+, Nanaimo, BC
Sam,
Good luck with it! I hope you enjoy your new boat as much as the rest of the Ericson clan does.
Frank.
Good luck with it! I hope you enjoy your new boat as much as the rest of the Ericson clan does.
Frank.
EGregerson
Member III
torque
Would locktite or some equivalent be helpful; the high torques values (like 250#) are designed so the nut doesn't back off; maybe a locktite like product will allow you to use less torque and lock the nut in place. I've seen 250# listed (somewhere)for the 1" bolts on my E34. I'd like to think i could get away with #200 and a tube of goo.
Would locktite or some equivalent be helpful; the high torques values (like 250#) are designed so the nut doesn't back off; maybe a locktite like product will allow you to use less torque and lock the nut in place. I've seen 250# listed (somewhere)for the 1" bolts on my E34. I'd like to think i could get away with #200 and a tube of goo.
perils of loc-tite
Be careful of what you wish for. Loc-tite is wonderful stuff for some things. Just remember there are different grades, some you can overcome the bond mechanically (with a wrench), others require a LOT of heat to break the bond. Loc-tite is meant mostly for high vibration applications. Keels need to be removed occasionally to rebed. Lock washers should do just fine to retain tightness. #250 ft/lbs for a 1" dia bolt is not excessive. You'll be suprised how hard you have to pull on that 4' length of pipe to get to 250 ft/lbs! Much better to check tightness every 3 or 4 years rather than create a real problem for yourself later on. Just my $.02 worth, but bear in mind I have 45 years experince building/working on machinery and have dealt with this stuff before!
Have fun & sail fast
Bud E34 #265 "Escapade"
Be careful of what you wish for. Loc-tite is wonderful stuff for some things. Just remember there are different grades, some you can overcome the bond mechanically (with a wrench), others require a LOT of heat to break the bond. Loc-tite is meant mostly for high vibration applications. Keels need to be removed occasionally to rebed. Lock washers should do just fine to retain tightness. #250 ft/lbs for a 1" dia bolt is not excessive. You'll be suprised how hard you have to pull on that 4' length of pipe to get to 250 ft/lbs! Much better to check tightness every 3 or 4 years rather than create a real problem for yourself later on. Just my $.02 worth, but bear in mind I have 45 years experince building/working on machinery and have dealt with this stuff before!
Have fun & sail fast
Bud E34 #265 "Escapade"
I don't know the specifics of your boat, but the standard nut for a 1" bolt will be 1-1/2" across the flats.
1-5/8" if it is a "heavy" nut.
http://pacificcoastbolt.com/doc/helpful-info/wrench-charts.pdf