Furling line clutch/cleat?

N

N.A.

E34 / SF Bay
Hello folks-

I just installed a new furling line (mine had a chunk out of it like what seems to have happened to Christian at some point; I am checking the block setting the lead into the furling drum...)

The new line -- from Harken, so an exact 8mm replacement -- is a lot smoother/more slippery, and probably a bit narrower since it has not "fuzzed out" yet with use. As a result, the clutch it went though holds the old line fine, but not the new line (at all; just zero grip.)

I am trying to decide what to do. The clutch was always a jury rig (from a previous owner), though a convenient one. Clutch is sized for 8m line, though... apparenty not new, slippery 8mm line I guess.

--> I think someone here (Christian?) suggested a ratcheting clock with cam clear mounted on a stanchion as a good way to terminate the roller furling line.

Looking around, I don't see such an item easily available. Maybe I missed it, but maybe it was put together with multiple parts from different vendors? Or maybe I don't understand what was being discussed, or mis-remember.

Anyway, I would like a camming thing (as opposed to a manual cleat), and seem to remember the ratcheting block was also recommended.

--> Any tips on what vendor/what to get would be appreciated. Want to fix this quickly, since obviously I use it every time I go out.

Many thanks for any suggestions re: what/where/which parts to get!
 
Loren Beach

Loren Beach

O34 - Portland, OR
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
Way back from when we first installed a furler, I routed the rear portion of the line thru a smaller Harken ratchet (switchable) mounted low on the forward sloped leg of the stern pulpit. From there it is lead up about a half foot or so, to a Sherman Johnson cleat clamped to the 1" SS leg. https://defender.com/en_us/c-s-john...MIwe7o_LDqjgMVvw-tBh3uQDk3EAYYASABEgIgofD_BwE

www.westmarine.com

7/8" X 1" Nylon Anodized Aluminum Cleat | West Marine

Check out our 7/8" X 1" Nylon Anodized Aluminum Cleat and more from West Marine!
www.westmarine.com www.westmarine.com
 
Nick J

Nick J

Contributing Partner
Moderator
Blogs Author
Our furling line goes through a Harken 7402 ratchet carbo block on the pushpit and we use a standard cleat mounted on the top of the cockpit combing. The combo works well for us. The cam cleat mounted to the turning block feels awkward to me, but a lot of other folks seem to like that setup as well.
 
windblown

windblown

Member III
Blogs Author
Nick J said:
Our furling line goes through a Harken 7402 ratchet carbo block on the pushpit and we use a standard cleat mounted on the top of the cockpit combing. The combo works well for us. The cam cleat mounted to the turning block feels awkward to me, but a lot of other folks seem to like that setup as well.
Click to expand...
We have a cam cleat with a fair lead on the starboard coming. Works well.
 
peaman

peaman

Contributing Partner
Nick J said:
Our furling line goes through a Harken 7402 ratchet carbo block on the pushpit and we use a standard cleat mounted on the top of the cockpit combing.
Click to expand...
I have the same rig, but a non-ratcheting block. The block is shackled to a stanchion anchor and has a good lead to the factory original horn cleat on top of the coaming. You can as well use a ratcheting block. You can also find a block with stanchion mount in a single unit.
 
windblown

windblown

Member III
Blogs Author
Here’s a pic of our cam cleat set up (fuzzy because this is a zoom-in crop from a much larger photo). The furling line comes from the bow down the starboard side through stanchion leads, then over to this cam cleat on the coming In front of the jib winch. This location makes it super easy to unfurl and furl from behind the wheel when single handed.



IMG_0143 Copy.jpeg
 
bgary

bgary

Advanced Beginner
Blogs Author
N.A. said:
--> I think someone here (Christian?) suggested a ratcheting clock with cam clear mounted on a stanchion as a good way to terminate the roller furling line.
Click to expand...

I have a ratcheting block hanging just under the lower lifeline where it meets the stern pulpit.

I attached it with a couple of dyneema loops. The position keeps the block up and out of the way, while making it easy to furl while behind the wheel.

1754120075500.jpeg
 
E

Elgyn

Member II
bgary said:
I have a ratcheting block hanging just under the lower lifeline where it meets the stern pulpit.

I attached it with a couple of dyneema loops. The position keeps the block up and out of the way, while making it easy to furl while behind the wheel.

View attachment 53426
Click to expand...
Might try something like that on my E29. How is it for furling under heavy winds? Does it move/twist a lot?
 
N

N.A.

E34 / SF Bay
Thanks for the picture, @bgary , @windblown , and the part # @Nick J !

I may do the ratchet block, one the pushpit like that with the cam on the combing -- that looks very nice, and leaves a lead to the winch should I ever need it (yes, don't tell me; I know you never winch this line. But maybe one day you really need to...)

PS: I ran across just yesterday while looking for something else: rail-mounted cam cleat! Looked before but had never found one:
https://www.garhauermarine.com/shop...ope-clutches/track-car-rope-clutch-11-11-oc2/ ($100)
 
peaman

peaman

Contributing Partner
bgary said:
I have a ratcheting block hanging just under the lower lifeline where it meets the stern pulpit.
Click to expand...
That's a nice solution. I wondered how one would keep the block/cam cleat from flopping around given the lead of the furling line. Also notable is the location of your fuel fill. My 1987 model 32-3 has it on the outboard face of the coaming rather that the top surface of your 1985 model.
 
bgary

bgary

Advanced Beginner
Blogs Author
peaman said:
I wondered how one would keep the block/cam cleat from flopping around given the lead of the furling line.
Click to expand...

It doesn't flop around. I'm using a block with a becket, and use another dyneema loop between the becket and the lower lifeline to hold the block horizontal. The dyneema loops provide enough "give" in the system to allow the block to align with the load, without twisting or drooping.

....and, I suspect Ericson figured out after building the first few 32-IIIs that the spot at the top of the coaming is a terrible place for that fuel fill. Especially when the hose develops a crack just below the fitting and there is no apparent way to wedge oneself up in there to replace it. As a result, I don't use the fuel-fill fitting - I'm perfectly fine filling up through the inspection port on the top of the tank....
 
Bepi

Bepi

E27 Roxanne
Does anybody use line spliced with wire? It seems that would chafe less against the furler. Are there technical, or cosmetic, reasons?
 
JSM

JSM

Sustaining Member
Bepi said:
Does anybody use line spliced with wire? It seems that would chafe less against the furler. Are there technical, or cosmetic, reasons?
Click to expand...
No, I can't imagine wire rolling up smoothly on the furler drum. As far as chafing the position of the drum can be adjusted so that the line exits the center of the opening.
I used 3/8" line on our furler and stripped out the core of the line that goes into the drum so that it doesn't over fill the drum when its rolled up.
 
Bepi

Bepi

E27 Roxanne
JSM said:
No, I can't imagine wire rolling up smoothly on the furler drum. As far as chafing the position of the drum can be adjusted so that the line exits the center of the opening.
I used 3/8" line on our furler and stripped out the core of the line that goes into the drum so that it doesn't over fill the drum when its rolled up.
Click to expand...
Just curious. It's how my boat has been rigged for 20 years.
 
Loren Beach

Loren Beach

O34 - Portland, OR
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
Bepi said:
Does anybody use line spliced with wire? It seems that would chafe less against the furler. Are there technical, or cosmetic, reasons?
Click to expand...
Never seen on any other boats, but there is indeed a CT-38 offshore sloop (https://sailboatdata.com/sailboat/ct-38-warwick/ ) in our moorage with a stock wire (with rope splice for the tail) for the furling line. The $$ furler was made by Reckmann. It appears to be a rather heavy duty piece of kit. Consider this as more trivia, and worth about that much.
 
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Prairie Schooner

Prairie Schooner

Jeff & Donna, E35-3 purchased 7/21
Bepi said:
Just curious. It's how my boat has been rigged for 20 years.
Click to expand...
That's interesting. I'd be worried about the steel wearing on the drum parts, especially those made of aluminum. But clearly you've got some longevity out of the arrangement. The wire doesn't acquire a coiled memory?
 
Bepi

Bepi

E27 Roxanne
Prairie Schooner said:
That's interesting. I'd be worried about the steel wearing on the drum parts, especially those made of aluminum. But clearly you've got some longevity out of the arrangement. The wire doesn't acquire a coiled memory?
Click to expand...
It may, I always try to keep slight tension on both sides of the system when furling or unfurling and it performed beautifully, never fouled once.
 
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JSM

JSM

Sustaining Member
Line runs from the drum thru Harken stantion blocks and finally thru a ratcheting block attached to a bimini leg and to a cleat.
 

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