Removal of fuel tank in 32-3

windblown said:

Are the hoses tagged with the red arrows what are referred to as “ the banjo fitting“ hoses?

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Yes, that's right.

windblown said:

I note that yours are painted universal gold. Mine are black rubber, and the insurance surveyor commented that they “appear brittle” and he recommended they be replaced. Is replacing these a reasonable DIY project?

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Yes. It's just a few hose clamps. Finding the right hose may be difficult. I'd remove one and take it to a fuel line shop. I should probably replace mine too just as a precaution. Let me know what size you find for them.

The round "banjo" portion of the fitting seals via crush washers on both top and bottom. I don't know if the old crush washers will be reusable. You might want to see if you can source new ones before starting.

Each line may be full of fuel, so place a rag underneath when you remove the ends. After replacement, you'll have to bleed the fuel line at the injector pump.

windblown said:

Why is the arrangement called a banjo fitting?

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I think the name just comes from the appearance of the circular housing that goes around the bolt.

Google "banjo fitting Monroe One" for a video.

Trivia note: a "banjo fitting" is also used on the oil pan drain-plug fitting on the later Universal M25XP diesels in order to lead a hose up a couple feet to the side of the engine compartment in order to facilitate vacuum withdrawal of the old lube oil. Our '88 engine had one that was installed right after the boat was new. Very handy to have.
Stock item on the newer Betamarine diesels.

Many have repainted or touched up Universal engines with "Universal gold' spray paint, which is why my black rubber return hoses were 'gold.'

Touch-up takes a lot of masking, after the engine is cleaned with detergent. But you can also spray some paint into a can and quickly dab it on with a foam brush. Caution as the spray blow-back into the can also paints your eyelashes. And the foam brushes die fast.

Trivia note: a "banjo fitting" is also used on the oil pan drain-plug fitting on the later Universal M25XP diesels in order to lead a hose up a couple feet to the side of the engine compartment in order to facilitate vacuum withdrawal of the old lube oil. Our '88 engine had one that was installed right after the boat was new. Very handy to have.
Stock item on the newer Betamarine diesels.

Loren Beach said:

Just another unplanned outcome of the USA failing to adopt the metric system back in the 70's when it was proposed.

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My dad said that "centigrade" temperature was not as accurate as Fahrenheit. (5 degrees delta C = 9 degrees delta F).

Kenneth K said:

I don't know if the old crush washers will be reusable. You might want to see if you can source new ones before starting.

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I have seen fiber washers and brass-like washers. I have reused fiber washers without issue. I don't know about the brass ones, but how bad could it be temporarily? The advice to have spares on hand is good, and in the case of the oil-pan fitting, why would one risk it?

Sorry to be unresponsive. 1) I had no idea 2) I was installing a chainplate u-bolt today and actively ignoring the fuel system. Glad I’m surrounded by smart people. But tomorrow it’s snowing and I will be belowdecks again.

Kenneth K said:

Yes. It's just a few hose clamps. Finding the right hose may be difficult. I'd remove one and take it to a fuel line shop.

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My emphasis. Kenneth, that was an understatement!
I recommend removing ALL hoses and taking them with you to shop or measuring each fitting end with calipers, because one ID may not be quite the same as another, and the metric fittings are often just enough closer to one imperial size than another. In the end, I needed three different sizes for this project.
Figuring out the hose sizes was a nuisance, but then finding each of those sizes with the right ABYC/USCG rating was the real challenge.
Here's the detail for posterity:
1. The return hoses between the fuel injectors (between the banjo fittings) were 3/16" (or 5 mm) on our Universal 25. It's possible to find that size online, but even the Sierra (marine) version does not comply with the ABYC or USCG requirements. (They are forthcoming about that in their description.)
I followed Christian's lead from David Grimm see: [Update: David Grimm reports that these return line hoses work on the 5432] in Post #56 here. Those hoses fit just right, but they don't meet the standard.
Once I knew what size I needed, I spent a lot of time online and visited local tractor and diesel shops and local chandleries. It turns out that Autozone carries a 3/16" fuel hose rated to 50 PSI that is flexible enough, with a nice thick, reinforced wall. It looks and feels a lot like the Gates hose that I removed, and I was prepared to advocate for this option with the surveyor if I couldn't find an ABYC compliant option.
I FINALLY found an acceptable hose after using 5 mm to search rather than 3/16". It's a UK company: https://www.advancedfluidsolutions.co.uk The hose I ordered is here: https://www.advancedfluidsolutions....uel-hose-a1-iso-7840-petrol--diesel-583-p.asp
For a meter of hose (the minimum) it's less than $10, but after they add DHL shipping, tariff, and taxes, it's another $45. Much to my surprise, it's already on the way, and should arrive by Monday, with days to spare before the surveyor returns for inspection on May 1.
2. The best fit for the hose from my Facet fuel pump to the secondary filter was 3/8" It was very tight on the fuel pump end, and a little loose on the filter end. The 3/8" Shields was not available at local chandleries, but is readily available online.
3. From the secondary filter to the engine, 1/4" was a better fit than the 3/8" and it was in stock at our local WM.

Note to Vikings: If you need a few inches of ABYC-compliant fuel line, I currently have the following in stock (ID) and would be willing to share for the cost of shipping:
1/2" 2 feet (don't ask)
3/8" 15"-20"
1/4" 1 foot
3/16" 2 feet+

Filkee said:

Rightly recognized. The back pain and bleeding is a given. I know I can count on my editor to punch it up for the Style Section.

Got it to the shop today and ID’d a hole the size of a dime at the low point.

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Just to close the loop in case anyone else was loosing sleep over it…

1) Local body shop (family run for over 100 years) cut a hole, declared the rest of the tank to be in bristol condition and sealed it up for about $150. Guy apologized as he told me the repair would probably outlive me (I’m 61).

2) After the stories about pulling out the fill line, I chickened out. Not the thing I needed to be doing in the same year as chainplates. Already wearing a wrist brace from bad interpretative dance yoga ratcheting in the head cabinet. At one point, I actually reattached a piece of wood and discovered I couldn’t get my head out. It felt very Monty Python for a moment.

All that’s left is to refill the tank and bleed the beast. Now I can start cleaning up like all the other people around me who are happily buffing their Hanse’s and bragging about launch dates.

I’ll be in come June….