1986 E28 stuffing box - not enough space to remove flax

[Dave G.]

Am I reading right that this cannot be done without digging a hole to make room for the drop?

The only way to know for sure is to get the shaft free from the coupler and see if it clears the rudder coming out. On mine I needed to dig about 18" deep to get enough space for the rudder shaft to clear the hull. That said my boat was on jackstands so the bottom of the keel was 1.5" above the ground. If you are on a cradle or trailer there may be enough clearance. Measure from the rudder tube from bottom of the cockpit to the hull and compare to the rudder height off the ground.

 

[Afrakes]

You can cut the hose to fit size needed in most applications. Al Have you pulled your prop shaft and if so does it come out without dropping the rudder ?

On my previous 1980 28+ the shaft was offset from centerline so the shaft could be pulled with the rudder in place. On the 28/2 the rudder has to be dropped in order to remove the shaft. Unless you want to raise the engine and pull it that way.

 

[AK67]

Hi Tguzowski, I'm in ME and in the same boat, literally - buying a 1986 E28-2 (5'6" draft/wheel helm) tomorrow. Need to drop the rudder for some repairs (delam as warned in the manual) and want to get the cutlass bearing, rudder bushings, and stuffing box while she's on the hard and the rudder's off. Stuffing box looks tight - doesn't look like there's enough room for dripless. Have you started the project yet? Would be great to compare notes.

 

[Afrakes]

With the Universal M-12 engine there was not enough room for a dripless. Looks like you have a Yanmar so there might be slight chance one will fit. It's going to be a bear trying to get the shaft out of the coupling with the amount of rust and corrosion. When I rebuilt the M-12 I just cut the shaft to get it out since there was excessive wear at the cutlass bearing and I needed a new one anyway. As I remember it wasn't too bad of an additional expense. Good luck.

 

[AK67]

Thanks, Al! Good eye - It was repowered with a Yanmar 2YM15. Did you have to remove the rudder? If so, any tips on steps and what to expect?

 

[Pete the Cat]

On the good news front, the boat is already on the hard so that is not an issue. After looking at everything I am feeling like a full replacement of the hose (and shortening it) and stuffing box is the right move. That, I'm sure is full of challenges, one of which is the rudder drop (which I was thinking about doing anyway for preventive maintenance). Am I reading right that this cannot be done without digging a hole to make room for the drop? I am really interested in doing this myself. Despite what I'm sure will be a TON of frustration, I really do like the learning experience of it (as long as I don't sink the boat).

It might be possible with some boats to drop the rudder far enough to back out the shaft, it depends on how high the boat is on the stands, how much rudder post is inside the boat and how much you can wiggle the shaft in the down tube to get by the rudder post. Helpful, eh? I think you are doing exactly the right thing here. Truthfully, you will reduce a lot future angst and problems by just taking everything apart and inspecting it, and doing it right.

 

[Afrakes]

What Pete said. Do you have to drop the rudder to properly work on it? I purchased a replacement from Foss.

 

[AK67]

If you have the "Competition" version of the E28-2 (5'6" keel), you don't have to dig a hole to drop the rudder

 

[Brad Johnson]

So I bought this boat last year from a guy who owned it for about 10 and the stuffing box has never been maintained. I decided to try and do it, but there doesn’t seem to be enough space for me to get the flax out or put new in. Anybody encounter this before? Universal M12 diesel. View attachment 49483

I have a E26 and it is a similar situation, I replaced the stuffing box this year and I removed the rudder , slid the shaft aft , removed coupling, packed the new stuffingi box ,installed the new stuffing box in the shaft tube, slid the shaft in and attached the coupling to the shaft, bolted the coupling to the transmission. roughly adjusted packing nut. It's not the best way to do this but the only option I had vs moving the engine forward. BTW the packing was not 1/8" in the new packing gland