32-2 - Bent Strut and broken prop shaft

[Kif]

This past weekend we wrapped our prop with a dock line and the stress apparently bent the strut and a bit later the prop shaft broke near the base of the boat. Guessing the bent strut pulled the shaft out of alignment which stressed it until it broke.

Starting to shop around for repairs. Curious of a couple of things from others here (based on questions I'm getting back).

• Strut is bronze right?
• It's pretty bent out of true and has some corrosion, time to replace yes?
• I was asked how it's attached inside and have not looked yet. Are bolts glassed over on the inside?
• Thoughts on gross repair costs (we are in the bay area). New shaft, probably new strut, cutlass bearing, stuffing box maybe.
• Any recommendations for where to go (we are in Berkeley Marina)?

 

[Loren Beach]

Wow! Painful accident, also insurance should cover the repair. Final bill will be pretty big.
The strut should be bronze and if bent will likely need replacement. (How many degrees is it bent? Quite a bit, seems like, to have broken a shaft. Check on the rest of the 'stern gear' also, like coupler and stuffing box hose.)

I know how this part is secured and glassed over on the inside of our '88 boat, but it may differ in details in a 70's 32-2. I hope that other owners can check in with more info.

Are you now hauled out, somewhere? Or do you just possess the outer broken portion of shaft, in hand, from a dive under the boat in the slip?

 

[Nick J]

Sorry to hear you're forced to go down the strut replacement path. There's a few good threads on here about replacing the strut. Here's my experience:

35-3 New Strut [Master Thread]

The haul out was going too well... The keel joint hasn't shown a drop of seepage, the blisters are better than I thought they were going to be, the rudder seems solid, and the engine removal went well. Even the shaft looks good and we're going to shorten it to clean up the gap between the...

ericsonyachts.org

Cost can vary widely depending on a lot of different factors. There's been a few examples of folks doing the repair themselves with really good success and that can save a lot. My biggest factor was the "while your at it" problem. I took the opportunity to fix up my engine compartment, replace thru hulls, replace plumbing and the kitchen sink, etc. That increased the cost exponentially, but I'm really happy we did it.

 

[G Kiba]

Berkeley Marine Center. Known great place to go and you are already there. I know this does not help - Prepare your checkbook! Remember it is only money and sailing, your boat, and the people you sail with are all worth it!

 

[Prairie Schooner]

That's a bummer, @Kif - If the strut is bent more than 10º-15º I'd go for a new one, even if the yard claims they can tweak it back. If the bend is slight, you might get by with bending it back. When metal gets bent or compressed, it work-hardens. Pushed far/often enough, the compressed grain separates and the part breaks. Think of a paper clip bent repeatedly until it breaks. - A boat I was racing on got the prop wrapped in a fish trap cable and the result was much as you described, though the shaft only bent. The strut/hull mount cracked enough that significant water was coming in. Keep checking the bilge.
Nick's replacement is pretty much the gold standard. A variation of the process which may be helpful, if only for additional insight on what's inside:

E35-3 Prop Shaft Strut - a look inside - and a zinc question

I’m rebedding the strut on our ’86 E35. It doesn’t have a zinc on it. It seems to be in good shape with no corrosion. There was a zinc on the shaft. Should I add a zinc to the strut (in addition to replacing the one on the shaft)? What are the factors to consider? Jeff

ericsonyachts.org

 

[Pete the Cat]

You might look at this as an opportunity. With all the folks who drop their keels and replace chain plates that have no damage for "preventive maintenance", you are into something that actually does wear out and degrade over time (the shaft, the strut, the stuffing box and hoses) and is often overlooked because it is an "on the hard" work and expensive to tackle in bits and pieces. Frankly, it is not cost efficient, if you intend to own the boat a few years into the future, not to jump on the opportunity to do it completely and right while you have everything apart and in the yard. I have heard good things about Berkeley Marine, but like my guys at British Marine on the Estuary for experience and reasonable costs. Check out the rudder bearings while you are hauled. FWIW.

 

[Kif]

Thanks all. Such great perspective. A few follow-ups.

• @Prairie Schooner & @Loren Beach - I think it's more than 10-15 degrees out of line. I was thinking the same thing about metal being fatigued if we try to straighten it and it's also already a bit corroded. Definitely want to have whoever does the work look at the whole stern gear.
• @Loren Beach - not hauled out yet. Happened to have our diver going there this week and he checked it out (pulled the broken part of the shaft with with prop still on it.
• @Prairie Schooner Nick's replacement? Not following you there.
• @G Kiba & @Pete the Cat - Thanks! Leaning towards BMC. Good to hear they are well regarded. Will look at British Marine, though getting there is a consideration.
• @Nick J - Very good points on the while you are at it. Definitely going to paint. Not sure what else we'll consider. Through hulls are an interesting one. Ties back to the checkbook eh?

 

[bigd14]

bigd14's Blog

ericsonyachts.org

5-part strut replacement blog in here. Not an easy job but possible to DIY if you want.

As Pete the Cat says, as you replace the strut and shaft now is the time to fix or replace everything else you can back there too. You’ll have the space to work on it. Motor mounts, shaft seal, hoses, fuel tank, on and on.

 

[Prairie Schooner]

Thanks all. Such great perspective. A few follow-ups.

• . . .
• @Prairie Schooner Nick's replacement? Not following you there.
• . . .

Nick replaced his strut and it's a well documented process with thoughtful discussions of options. There is good additional information in some of the other threads here. Even if you don't do it yourself, reading the accounts will leave you much better prepared to work with the yard.

It's very likely the engine will need to come out. As folks have said here, you'll never get better access to those areas. Engine mounts is one thing to take care of now. The engine bay and aft cavity is the locus of a lot of complexity. You could spend a full year and buckets of money with just what you have access to there.

What kind of engine do you have? Is it original? Most folks here will put some basic info like year, model, engine, etc. in their signature line. I find it helpful as people respond to my questions and when I respond. (This info is not visible when I view the site in my iPhone Safari browser)

Cheers,
Jeff