Currently E34-2 and E30+, Formerly E27
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bigd14's Blog
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E30-3
Fo'c'sle Rebuild Part 3
Nearly two years ago I noticed cracks appearing in the fo'c'sle area. I removed the raised portion and temporarily rebuilt the area, documented in these blog posts:
https://ericsonyachts.org/ie/ubs/fo%E2%80%99c%E2%80%99sle-rebuild-part-1.1023/...
E30-3
Fo’c’sle Rebuild Part 2
Shoot for the stars and you might reach the moon.
We have had the boat hauled out over the past 5 days at a DIY yard. My wife single handledly knocked out the bottom paint over two days while I fiddled around with various projects including a new jib furler, mast step repair and external...
E30-3
Fo’c’sle Rebuild Part 1
Forecastle or fo’c’sle is the term for the forward most raised portion of the deck on a boat. On the 30+ this area is heavily built to support the loads of the forestay and provide a flat surface for the bronze anchor roller/jib tack fitting, and is designed to match the toe rail profile forward...
E30-3
My 30+ Traveler Upgrade
I just completed a long awaited traveler upgrade project. There are plenty of blogs and posts about traveler upgrades on this site which I used for inspiration and advice. Here are a few of them:
https://ericsonyachts.org/ie/ubs/ronstan-traveler-upgrade-thelonious-ii.583/...
The seahood is back on and sealed up.
I took the seahood home and tried to remove the traveler from it. The screws came out more easily than expected. They were only engaged about one turn in the aluminum plate embedded in the seahood. With the screws removed I figured it would be easy to...
I have suffered leaks from the screws holding the seahood down for years. I applied Gorilla tape over them which lasted a couple years but finally failed this past winter. So time to dive into it. I have wondered for years what exactly I would find under the seahood, and no blogs or posts seemed...
E30-3
E30+ Stern Access (Pt 2)
In response to comments on the previous blog entry. Yes! Access to the quadrant is easy. You do have to lie on your back, but you can scooch right up under it. I constructed a shelf to fit over the fuel tank which is mostly the same level as the quarter berth. Eventually I may put a water...
E30-3
E30+ Stern Access (Pt 1)
I have been meaning to post this for awhile but only recently took some pics. The aft end of the 30+ is only accessible through the lazarette. It's not a comfortable space. Add a spare battery various hoses, and a hot water heater and its nearly impossible to get in there. And if one does manage...
This time I used thickened epoxy on all the edges and let the first course cure before adding the reinforcing layers of biax. This turned out way better with much fewer voids.
Try #2
I filled the voids and spent hours sanding it flush. Then I primed it, but the primer cured lumpy, so I spent...
Once the mold was built up, I added thickened epoxy fillets, then coated the whole thing with epoxy and sanded it flat. Then I coated it with about 15 coats of mold release wax, which was 10 more than needed, and taped off all other surfaces.
Ready for fiberglassing
I laid up fiberglass...
The boat came to me with a series of switches and buttons installed in holes in the cockpit wall leaving them exposed to water. The original engine panel had been removed and replaced with a sheet of stainless steel with a speaker in the middle of it which leaked water into the boat and looked...
Finally got it done. Four days and four rounds of epoxy.
The first round of filler was very thick to hold the strut in place. Temperatures were in the low 50's during the process, and I used slow hardener to prevent it from going off too hot.
The next day I added the second pour which filled...
I was finally able to put in a full day of work on the boat today. As shown in the last strut replacement blog, I started out thinking I would prop up the shaft on a barrel and some wood. I quickly realized this would cause the strut to move when I stepped on and off the boat (and with the wind...
After removing the strut, I found an exact replacement at Marine Hardware in Redmond WA. They apparently obtained the patterns from Ericson back in the day. The new manganese bronze strut with bearing cost $635 and took them about 6 weeks to turnaround. I also had a new shaft and coupler...
Here are a couple photos of the cavity the strut came out of. About 2.5 inches of material.
During removal of the cutless bearing, chunks of the strut started coming off. The inside of the strut around the bearing was pure pink, indicating severe galvanic corrosion. So the entire strut has to be replaced.
I was originally hoping that the strut had been installed from below and I would...
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