35-2 Hot water tank info?

[Captnemo8]

Good morning all: I'm presently in the process of purchasing a 1972 35-2.
So far the only real problem the surveyor has come across is a leaky hot water tank which he believes to be aluminum? Has anyone out there dealt with this issue? Or have any idea's where I might find some info??? Thanks for input.

 

[mherrcat]

If it is the water heater that is leaking and not one of the hoses it probably needs to be replaced. The Raritans are only around $500 for about the 6 gal. capacity. Isotherm looks like a better unit but they cost a little more. If it is a Raritan and the pressure relief valve is leaking they sell replacements. The Raritan also apparently has a zinc anode that is an integral part of the output fitting that is removeable, but I haven't figured out how to remove it without damaging the threads on the fitting...

 

[Tom Plummer]

When I had to replace mine I discovered that the only tank that would fit through the Lazaret opening with out doing surgery was the isotherm tank. It was more expensive for the tank but less costly in the long run because I didn't have to do any cutting. I am very happy with the tank it heats fast and hold temp very well which keeps the Admiral happy. She really likes a hot shower in the AM and I hate running the engine every morning to make her hot water.

 

[Tom Metzger]

Being cheap, I must point out that Seaward Products 6 gallon heaters are available from $200 to $300 @ Defender depending on sales and materials and configuration. This is what was supplied by Ericson in the '80s. Mine lasted about 17 years.

http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1|51|10172|319679&id=105631

FWIW, I just noticed that the heater is rated at a higher wattage than mine. I would prefer 600 watts rather than the 1500 they are using now.

 

[boethius27]

we put a force ten 6 gallon in the lazarette. It didn't fit through the hole, but I only had to cut about 1/8 inch off each side of the lip around the opening. Cutting such a little meant i didn't have to do any repair work or anything, the amount taken off was negligible enough in my opinion. The tank works great and we haven't had any troubles in the year we've been using it.

rock on.

 

[Captnemo8]

Thanks everyone for your replies. Has anyone out there simply abandoned the original and placed a bigger unit elsewhere?

 

[Sean Engle]

I vote for the Isotherm. Stainless steel construction, easy to install, and the best part: the water stays hot a long, long, LONG time. You arrive, drop the hook, have dinner, sleep and get up the next am - and take a hot shower - seriously.

//sse

 

[Captnemo8]

Thanks for the info Sean. Hopefully i'll have the survey in my hands by Wed's, and I'll see what else I might need help with???? LOL

 

[Gary G]

E28+ and leaky hot water

I have a 1983 E28+ and the relief valve is leaking. I have tried PB Blaster, Liquid Wrench, etc and just can't seem to get it loose. Could heating it with a torch do the trick without damaging the tank (original Raritan)? If it comes to replacement it looks like the lazarette would need to be cut up to get the old unit out - I would have to check the specs on a new unit to see what would fit. Has anyone replaced their water heater on this model boat? Can you provide any advice?

 

[Tom Plummer]

I second Sean's comment on the Isotherm units outstanding heat retention qualities. The hot water keeps the Admiral happy and a happy Admiral makes for a happy vessel.

Gary, when I removed my old leaking Raritan I first removed the outer case and insulation then cut the tank in half with a sawsall. It really wasn't al that hard to do took about 2hrs was all.

 

[CSMcKillip]

Our tank has been removed from the plumbing and I am planning on re servicing it in the spring. It has been sitting for 15 years dry, I am hoping that the internal parts are not rusted. What is the best process to see the inside condition of the tank?

 

[Glyn Judson]

Getting the old tank out.

Gary, I did just as Tom said he did as well. The only difference was that I was able to remove the tank sans sheet metal and insulation, out over the engine in our E31. You might try your version of that same method and then consider a more compact Isotherm as a replacement tank. I should say here that if it's showers you're primarily interested in and not instant hot water from the tap, you might want to think about what I did. After ripping the old tank out (110 volt only), I left it out and used the space for two group 27 batteries dedicated to our Adler Barbour and went an alternate shower route. We now have a stainless steel, 1-gallon Hudson garden sprayer http://www.walmart.com/catalog/product.do?product_id=1551069 onboard that we stow in the hanging locker and haul out for showers. With a gallon or even less of water in the tank and five minutes on the 5,000BTU stove burner, the water is almost too hot to use. By bending the brass wand into a U-shape using a plumbers pipe bender, one can direct the spray at oneself and by turning the spray nozzle finer at the tip, it cools the water enough to be tolerable. If choosing to go this route, be 100% sure to remove the pump from the tank before putting it on the stove. Only after the water is heated to satisfaction should the pump be engaged and used to pressurize the tank. Good luck with your final choice, Glyn Judson, E31 hull #55, Marina del Rey, CA