38-200 Keel Bolts

[Rick R.]

Is the crack 2 inches wide or long? A narrow two inch long crack is probably not significant if there is nothing else to suggest a leak . It is more likely a paint crack. If the keel is truly separating, a longer crack would appear and it would likely be on both sides of the boat. If you walk through a boat yard, you may notice many boats with a small crack at the keel hull junction. A trail of rust at the crack would be a bad sign.

It's visible on both sides but nobody (the anal-retentive surveyor, the boatyard manager) felt it was a critical problem and that it could be addressed at the next haulout. No rust, just paint.

 

[Curtis]

38-200 Keel Bolt thread resurrection

Greetings All,

When our 1986 Ericson 38-200 was hauled out in November, we had cracks along the forward and aft portions of where the keel attaches to the hull. The joint did weep a bit (clear weep - no brown detected), so we had the yard torque the keelbolts that they could reach, and then ream and fill the joint while she was hanging in the sling prior to splash down.

We dried out the bilge after a recent sail to observe how things were holding up. We noticed the next morning that the bilge had water in it.

We dried the bilge again and observed weeping around the keelbolt forward and starboard of the mast. We think we might also have some weeping around the aft-most keelbolt, but it was really difficult to tell due to the location of the engine.

We have the E38-200 model where the engine is under the galley sink, thus making at least 5 of the keelbolts virtually inaccessible.

In reading through various threads, it appears many folks have dropped the keel and re-bedded it (depending upon the condition of the keel bolts). While that would be the most thorough solution, our problem/challenge is getting access to several of the bolts. We'd probably need to pull out the engine, port water tank, the mast and disassemble the galley sink.

Alternatively, we could haul the boat, ream the joint, fill, and repaint.

Has anyone with the engine under the galley sink has ever dropped their keel? Are there better alternatives?

Thanks in advance for your input!! -Curtis

 

[Joliba]

I can't speak to the keelbolt access issue, as we have the aft engine model. However, in my opinion, dropping, inspecting and re bedding the keel (as we did for the same reason a few years ago) is important in your situation. Seawater around the keelbolts could lead to unseen corrosion and ultimate failure. It's not something you want to be wondering about when pounding to windward heeled over in rough seas. It has been pointed out on this forum that nobody has heard of an Ericson losing her keel. But with the known fabrication defect in the late 1980's and the passage of years increasing the risk, I doubt that that you would want to become the first.
Mike Jacker

 

[melissa]

Ericson 38-200 keel bolt advice

Hello! My husband, Curtis (who also posts on this forum) and I own a 1986 Ericson 38-200. We just recently discovered a slight leak on the second set of keel bolts. Since we hope to take the boat offshore, we know the only solution is to drop the keel, check the keel bolts and rebed the keel. My question for those of you that have done this...did you have to remove the engine, unstep the mast, etc or were you able to leave the rig intact and remove the keel bolts while the boat was hanging in a sling? Is there a specific tool that you used for this? Our engine is under the galley sink, which makes getting to the aft keel bolts quite a challenge.

And, last question, if you live in the SF Bay Area is there a yard that you have used that you would recommend for this type of job? Thank you for all your help!

 

[Loren Beach]

Bolting two threads together

I merged both the new and older E-38 keel bolt threads. This makes searching easier.

Hope no one minds too much.

Loren
moderator

 

[u079721]

Hello! My husband, Curtis (who also posts on this forum) and I own a 1986 Ericson 38-200. We just recently discovered a slight leak on the second set of keel bolts. Since we hope to take the boat offshore, we know the only solution is to drop the keel, check the keel bolts and rebed the keel. My question for those of you that have done this...did you have to remove the engine, unstep the mast, etc or were you able to leave the rig intact and remove the keel bolts while the boat was hanging in a sling? Is there a specific tool that you used for this? Our engine is under the galley sink, which makes getting to the aft keel bolts quite a challenge.

And, last question, if you live in the SF Bay Area is there a yard that you have used that you would recommend for this type of job? Thank you for all your help!

I can't speak to the engine removal question, since on our aft-engine '89 this wasn't a problem. But as to the mast, I can say that the crew at our boat yard would not have wanted to drop the keel if the mast were still stepped. Just a question of too much weight aloft not being balanced by the keel. Leaving the mast up may be common practice at other yards, but I've not seen it.

 

[trenton]

keel bolts

we just finished dropping the keel and rebedding. We have the engine under the galley sink and yes we had to remove the engine, water tank, and mast to be sure we could get to all the bolts adequately. sorry know that is not what you wanted to hear.
Encore E38-200
Trenton

 

[JoeR]

torquing the Keel Bolts on a 38-200

I am faced with the fact that the keel bolts NEED to be torqued on my 1989 Ericson 38-200 aft engine version. The PO was unable to get to the bolts under the mast and under the galley sink and were not touched; therefore the need to torque is strong. I would like to make the torquing procedure part of my pre-launch whenever she has been sitting on the keel.

I am asking those who have have done this to take a few pictures and possibly give a write up on the procedure. Some questions:
- how many bolts, what size of nuts (all the same?)
- torque specs
- tools needed
- does the mast need to be lifted or come off
- do you put on thread locker or double nuts to lock in place
- how do you handle the bolts under the galley

Any help would be much appreciated!
Joe

 

[u079721]

I am faced with the fact that the keel bolts NEED to be torqued on my 1989 Ericson 38-200 aft engine version. The PO was unable to get to the bolts under the mast and under the galley sink and were not touched; therefore the need to torque is strong. I would like to make the torquing procedure part of my pre-launch whenever she has been sitting on the keel.

I am asking those who have have done this to take a few pictures and possibly give a write up on the procedure. Some questions:
- how many bolts, what size of nuts (all the same?)
- torque specs
- tools needed
- does the mast need to be lifted or come off
- do you put on thread locker or double nuts to lock in place
- how do you handle the bolts under the galley

Any help would be much appreciated!
Joe

The only thing I can add to my previous comments (in this very thread) is that (according to my maintenance log) the larger nuts were a 1 1/2" socket, while the smaller nuts (just the one aft bolt?) were a 1 1/8" socket.

 

[Loren Beach]

Before deciding that some torquing up will "fix" anything on a mid-late 80's Ericson or Olson, you should study this whole thread.
We are still Very pleased that we had our keel rebedded. Never a leak or any need for torquing up a bolt in all these years since.
http://www.ericsonyachts.org/infoex...8-Keel-Bolt-Design-(and-Repair)&referrerid=28
Our keel is shown in reply 22.

This is one of those 'preventative maintenance' jobs that needs to be done right. Remember that any corrosion on the ss bolts will be totally out of sight below the inside level where you see the washer and nut.

Loren

 

[JoeR]

Thanks Steve and Loren, all good information. There is a treasure trove of good bits in the other "Keel Bolts" threads.
Joe