Cabin top control lines

[C Masone]

My E32-3 has an array of control lines on the cabin top, including halyards mainsheet reefing lines vang control ect and they come in at wierd angles with an array of winches none of which can be cranked full circle because of their positions as compared to the dodger.

I would love to see pictures of set-ups on other boats and any discussion as to the ideas you may have about why the lines are where they are and what you may have though about re-locating them if you havent don so already.

 

[Captron]

Control lines

Those control lines that lead aft to the cockpit over the cabin top and under the traveler, etc. were put there for a reason. The reason being to keep your cockpit perpetually cluttered with a tangled mess of lines.

Actually they are led there so that in theory at least, you don't have to leave the safety and security of the cockpit to do things like adjust a halyard or reef the main sail. Unfortunately on my E38 it's a thought that never got completed.

My main halyard runs aft to the cockpit and the leach reefing lines are run aft to the cockpit so reasonably one would think that you could reef from the cockpit. Wrongo. The crew must still go forward to the mast in order to hook the reefing grommets to the reefing hook at the tack end of the boom. I would need still another pair of reefing lines led back to the cockpit to reef the new tack from the cockpit. Also with my dodger/windshield arrangement, the crew must go forward of the cockpit canvas to adjust the traveler.

Fortunately, the winch clearance was considered when the bimini/dodger was built so I have good clearance on two of the three cabin top winches with the windshield rigged. Without the windshield, all three can swing full circle.

I suppose too that when racing it helps keep crew weight more centered in the boat (fore & aft)... maybe.

With all the drag induced by leading lines aft through a gaggle of blocks, my main is a pain to raise. I find it much easier to just go forward and jump the main halyard by hand while wife takes up the slack. I winch the last foot or so for tension.

When racing we station the main sheet trimmer on the companionway steps where the self-tailing winch is in a comfortable grinding position. From there one can see the mainsail and reach the traveler controls. But if we were serious racers, that's a body I'd rather have on the rail.

I'd be interested in seeing a better idea too.

 

[steven]

(sigh) On my E-35-2, I have moved all control lines back to the mast. The reason is I single hand alot, and cannot find any other way to avoid the dangerous situation where an aft led reef line snags and I'm stuck having to be at the mast (for the reef line) and in the cockpit (handling the haly'd) at the same time. So I feel it's safer to go to the mast and just get it done - takes half a minute to reef; about the same to raise; and maybe less to drop. I'm looking into putting safety bars at the mast (anyone with experience with these? advice would be welcome).

Would be nice coming into port or anchoring under sail if the main halyard was aft and could just be dropped. I wish there was a way to have it both ways, but until someone thinks of one, I'm back to the simple mast arrangement. Also gets rid of some leaky decktop fittings.

Probably not the answer you want to hear. I too am open to alternatives

--Steve

 

[ted_reshetiloff]

I have all led aft and only one winch that gets tight on the dodger. I replaced all of my oem sheave blocks (lewmar ocean) with new Lewmar Racing High load bearing blocks. I raise the main from the cockpit myself and I'm 5'5" and weigh 125, so I'm not super strong, although strong track would be nice. Its all about reducing the friction and taking time to think out your leads. On the mainsheet I went to 7:1 purchase from the oem 5:1 and eliminated the mainsheet block at the gooseneck allowing the sheet to run from the boom angled down to the mast collar block. I also made the traveler 6:1 oem was 4:1 IIRC, and have it led through the dodger. To reduce the spagetti I made a two part genoa halyard. I used 3/8 V-100 and made it just long enough so that when fuly hoisted and led back to the winch I have a 3' tail to adjust luff tension with. In the end is soft eye splice. To raise and lower the sail I use a piece of 3/16 staset as a messenger. A roller furling sail gets hoisted maybe twice a year. Spring and fall. The rest of the time you have 60' of extra halyard sitting in the cockpit. With my 2 part set up you can spend money on a truely great halyard like V-100 and only buy what you will actually be using. The only downside is that I do not have the luff reefing lines led aft I use hooks, but I'm really not that scared to leave my cockpit to go tuck in a reef. Maybe if I was doing a lot of singlhanded offshore work I would want that but I dont mind taking a walk up to the rig in a blow. Gives me the opportunity to check the rig settings and mast bend anyway. One other thing is to trim the excess off of the lines that are led aft. Most people take a rough measurement then add a few feet when the buy new lines. Always trying to err on the too long vesus to short side. Take some time and see just how long do the lines really need to be to get their jobs done. How much travel is required. I do this on race boats all the time to clean things up. My outhaul used to be led aft. I made a new outhaul with 12:1 purchase inside the boom. The line exits the side of the boom to a cam cleat with a block just fwd of the cleat. The outhaul can be adjusted at any point of sail and under any load but you do have to get out of the cockpit. I put a rigid vang on which eliminated the need for a toppinglift, but if it were a real offshore boat I would add a spare main halyard.