Coolant overflow tank

[ky ed]

Ref: Fuel-line thread sealants: (LINK)

Backyard mechanics will tell you they've used regular old gas resistant teflon tape (yellow stuff) with success. This is not recommended because it risks breaking free. Liquid or paste type thread sealants are kinder to sensitive components down stream. Mechanics repairing injectors, fuel pumps and carburetors can tell you firsthand it is not uncommon to trace fault in the fuel component to clogging from a piece of Teflon tape that washed off the ends of the threads, clogging in the first tiny micron orifice it encounters, if not the fuel pump then an injector or carburetor gallery. Either way, it's a costly repair. Liquid or paste type sealant won't clog. For gasoline, regular old gasoline resistant Aviation Form-a-gasket Number 3 is the best option. Another product also offered by Permatex is the High Temperature Thread Sealant. Tech data on this sealant says it has medium solvent resistance and is recommended for fuel sender type applications. With the advent of ethanol present in modern gasoline, try Form-a-gasket No. 3.​

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I've used Gasoila thread sealant and Permatex Aviation Form-A-Gasket on oil & fuel fittings.​

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Ref: The 12V wiring to the pump:

On many boats, Ericson "cheated" and didn't run a dedicated wire from the engine panel to the pump. On mine, they spliced into the small (18ga, I think) alternator excitation lead (purple wire). It worked okay, but I think that wire was undersized for the long run from the engine panel.​

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It might be worthwhile to plan for the future a bit here: Think about all the things in the engine compartment you might someday want powered from the ON side of the engine panel (fuel pump, alternator excitation, hour-meter, future temperature/pressure alarms, etc), then run a heavier gauge wire (say, 10GA) from the engine panel to a fuse block in the engine compartment. ​

View attachment 54322​

This way, you have only one wire running power from the panel back to the engine, and then individual fuses for each item powered by that wire. You can see more on engine panel re-wiring ideas here: https://ericsonyachts.org/ie/ubs/another-engine-panel-upgrade-pt-1.701/

For the ground, most folks mount a ground-bus-bar near the engine to collect ALL the grounds on the boat (batteries, engine panel, main electrical panel, other individual devices).

View attachment 54323

 

[ky ed]

I agree with Kenneth's post that Aviation gasket sealer is good on petro chemicals. H20. GASKETS, plastic stuff. Not good as ORing lube and hard to get off of hands! A good solvent to get it off of skin is rubbing alcohol which is also good to soften it and clean mating serfaces.
Avoid teflon tape like the plague. That tiny piece of tape will hang out some where for years till it decides it is time to ruin your day at the most inconvenient time like that unfamiliar pass with a strong current or at start of a long anticipated journey and disable a pump, check/joker valve, or go overboard as just another piece of microplastic.

 

[Aqua V]

Appreciate the down-low and recommendations on the "fitting" sealant, fittings showed up today, company called Pegasus Racing supplies...

 

[Aqua V]

Hope all had an enjoyable Christmas !
Weather windows for boat work are limited with work centered around hull prep; washing/waxing above W/L, prepping, bottom paint. Doesn't make much sense now to rush getting back in the water when the height of winter is on us here on the Chesapeake. Leave on the hard and have it ready early spring?

BTW, as a "FYI"; I reached out to the engine re-builder on a "spare" wire connection out of the engine control panel in looking for 12V Fuel Pump power for the new pump. This is the response I received in adding an electric fuel pump to the M25...

" We don’t recommend running an electric pump in conjunction with the M 25 diaphragm pump. The additional pressure can cause injector pump seals to fail and dilute/contaminate the engine oil with diesel fuel. Its OK to use one intermittently for bleeding etc."

I would think their are installation applications ( distance between tank and engine?) where a electric pump would be necessary.

 

[Loren Beach]

Puzzling. I thought that the M25 model was sold new with a Facet brand electric lift pump, and that the block did not have a diaphragm pump installed.
The later Kubota block used for my 2018 Betamarine25 engine does have a diaphragm pump. At the advice of our installer we left the electric lift pump in the fuel system, upstream from from the engine-operated pump.
BTW, the only way that that engine oil could get into the injector pump would be from the mechanical diaphragm pump mounted on the block, seems like, to me. (?)

 

[peaman]

" We don’t recommend running an electric pump in conjunction with the M 25 diaphragm pump. The additional pressure can cause injector pump seals to fail and dilute/contaminate the engine oil with diesel fuel. Its OK to use one intermittently for bleeding etc."

I found that I had a failed Facet Cube electric pump when my engine would not run above 1800 rpm, so my engine definitely needs an external pump. My engine happens to be M25XPB which I think is considered third generation, so that may be different from others. The engine was installed by the previous owner in 2020.

 

[Christian Williams]

I thought that the M25 model was sold new with a Facet brand electric lift pump

Me too. That's the only fuel pump it has, far as I know.

 

[Aqua V]

I was surprised at the response and yes, "puzzling" based on what I gathered from every ones inputs... Many of you sail with the M25/25XP and an external fuel pump, part of the boats configuration, makes perfect sense to me.