E 30+ water pump replacement/folding prop/fuel sensor trouble.

[vernon kleist]

Hi Sailors,

I want to thank the many people on this site who have helped me with ideas and guidance as I get to know my 1984 E 30+. The boat is very satisfactory, fast and handles beautifully.

She is old though and takes some maintenance. We recently replaced the fixed prop with a Martec folder and the install went smoothly. I hired a diver who mounted it for $100. It works reasonably well in reverse and quite well in forward. We have not raced our nemesis yet but expect good things. We ordered the prop directly from Martec in Long Beach, CA and got good service.

Our Raw water pump started leaking and local sources were charging $380 for a replacement for the Sherwood pump on our Universal M18. We found an Oberdorf pump that was an alternate original equipment item from www.marinepartssource.com. Ask for their web site price. Ours was $235 delivered.

Now my fuel guage quite working. I found a red wire disconnected from the back of the guage but after reattaching it the guage still lays there dead. It bounces a little when the ignition is turned on so it may be the sender.

Does anyone know about to test the sending unit in the fuel tank?

Fair winds,

Vern
Via Mar

 

[Jeff Asbury]

I would think you could get your water pump re built. My local Yanmar dealer charges $60. to rebuild my little pump. If it's leaking it may just need a new impeller and new gaskets. If the shaft is scored that would make it leak as well but can often be smoothed out. I let my mechanic do that. The seals on the bearings can also go bad and leak.

Not sure about the Universal water pumps, but I am able to get all the above mentioned parts separately for my Yanmar. I actually have two rebuilt pumps on board. One installed and the other I recently re built that I keep as a back up. I also keep spare gaskets and impellers on board. The little pumps on my 8hp Yanmar have been problematic so I always have what I need to get going again on hand.

I have no fuel gage on my E-27 so I can't help you there. I burn so little fuel that I almost always just keep it topped off. If worse comes to worse I can just use a yard stick and stick it in the tank and know how full it is.

 

[treilley]

The sending unit can be tested with an ohm meter. One lead goes on the sending unit the other on ground. You will need to move the float to see if the resistence changes.

This sounds more like a bad ground wire. Check and make sure all wiring is good. There are ways to test the gauge too. You should be able to google that.

 

[Tom Metzger]

The standard fuel gauge is 33 - 240 Ohms.

 

[C. Trembanis]

Fuel Guage

Hi Sailors,

I want to thank the many people on this site who have helped me with ideas and guidance as I get to know my 1984 E 30+. The boat is very satisfactory, fast and handles beautifully.

She is old though and takes some maintenance. We recently replaced the fixed prop with a Martec folder and the install went smoothly. I hired a diver who mounted it for $100. It works reasonably well in reverse and quite well in forward. We have not raced our nemesis yet but expect good things. We ordered the prop directly from Martec in Long Beach, CA and got good service.

Our Raw water pump started leaking and local sources were charging $380 for a replacement for the Sherwood pump on our Universal M18. We found an Oberdorf pump that was an alternate original equipment item from www.marinepartssource.com. Ask for their web site price. Ours was $235 delivered.

Now my fuel guage quite working. I found a red wire disconnected from the back of the guage but after reattaching it the guage still lays there dead. It bounces a little when the ignition is turned on so it may be the sender.

Does anyone know about to test the sending unit in the fuel tank?

Fair winds,

Vern
Via Mar

I have a polypropolene gas tank. I simply shine a bright light(flash light) held up aganist the side of the tank and shows the level of fuel. Simple...

 

[Trucker Doug]

You may already know this but on my 30+ the raw water pump has a grease cap that should be snugged up when it starts to leak. Pushes grease back into the seal and it seals it back up.