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E25+ Bilge work: cleaning, epoxy, paint, pumps, wiring… questions

Shankara

Member II
Greetings!

When I purchased my beautiful 1980 Ericson 25+ last year in Portland, the previous owner opened the bilge and said, “Dry, good!” I thought to myself, “Wow! I don’t even know what a bilge is?” It was a strange and fascinating looking part of the boat and I was amazed.

Last winter the bilge was filling up quite fast and needed manual emptying often. I could not figure out how to turn on the electric bilge and it was not turning on by itself. My guess was that it was broken or maybe needed a new fuse but I did not know how those things worked yet. I’m determined though, and am currently learning as much as possible.

I figured I would start with the manual bilge pump installation out in the cockpit. There was a manual bilge pump installed at some point, although only remnants remained. I purchased a new manual bilge and unfortunately the holes did not align so the battle of the bilge began!

I filled the old holes with epoxy and drilled new ones. When I went to run the bilge intake hose down under the sole into the bilge, I realized that I should probably remove the old bilge electrical components and clean out the grime. This meant doing something terrifying to me, removing the electrical switch panel.

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Upon removing the panel it was scary as the spaghetti of wires was packed in tight. I’m just learning about marine electrics also. The main thing that scared me was the positive and negative bus bars are floating, not screwed down anywhere.

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I made a discovery! The reason why the electric pump did not work was that someone had previously disconnected it.

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Perhaps it was disconnected because it was fried due to wires badly connected with electrical tape below the waterline.

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I removed the electronic stuff and cut the wire further up the line. Temporarily electrical taped it.

I then soaked the bilge overnight in bilge cleaner and water. I had no idea this little bilge holds 20 gallons! An incredible amount of oily diesel detergent grime was released. I bought some 5 gallon buckets and lids and disposed of it properly with Crescent City harbor maintenance.

I did another scrub, vacuumed it all out, and then noticed a lot of loose fiberglass, resin, and rusty debris. The obvious chunks were scraped out and removed, although I did not want to open any cans of worms, or water, so I was a a bit hesitant to scrape too far.

Before:
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After:
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Feeling very satisfied with myself for getting this far I decided, it’s time to install this box filter to the bottom of the bilge. But how? I noticed a screw screwed down into the bilge from a PO. Can I screw down into the bilge I thought? Seems questionable at best.

So I asked a friend at the marina. He said no way, never screw into a bilge, because water can slowly corrode into the fabric of the boat through such holes. He suggested I epoxy a piece of wood or plastic to the bilge base to mount the equipment onto.

After showing him a picture of what I was working with, he said I should do some epoxy work within the bilge to fill any cracks, and then paint it with gray bilge paint. Then add a piece of wood or plastic to screw into.

I am planning this week to do the epoxy repair and bilge painting, although I am not sure what this bolt hole looking thing is in the front half of the bilge?

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Another fellow sailer here took a look and said, “I’d take a picture of that and post it on that Ericson yacht forum that you are part of and ask them what to do about this.” “It looks like a bolt is missing.“ He also wanted me to ask if anybody knows what these curved metal bands with bolts are? He thought they looked like a newer addition.

After the bilge is cleaned up and functioning nicely, I plan on wiring in a new electric float and bilge pump, as well as a high water alarm system.

Does anyone here have any insight into the rusty bolt looking part, or have any other comments or suggestions about sealing the bilge or anything else?

Thanks,
Shankara
 
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bigd14

Contributing Partner
Blogs Author
Nice work, the bilge looks good! Don't worry about that bolt hole. I believe the E25 is the same as the E27 with an encapsulated keel (looks similar to my old E27 at least). The hole was used for a threaded eye bolt to lift the lead keel into the hull during construction. Once the lead was installed the eye bolt was removed and the rest of the boat was constructed over the top of the keel.

And yes clean up that wiring (good winter project). I would tear it all out and replace it using proper heat shrink terminals and new wiring. This company (https://www.genuinedealz.com/) has good prices. Look at the Blue Sea Systems Resources website for wire and fuse sizing guides. https://www.bluesea.com/. Rewiring the whole electrical system is a great way to get to know your boat and you will undoubtedly find some other issues to address (thru hulls and hoses for example). Good luck with the project and keep us up to date.

You can paint the bilge with gray or white BilgeKote from Interlux. Great stuff, but use a respirator! I wouldn't worry about sealing it with epoxy. If you really want to go crazy, unscrew the floor over the bilge and clean and paint it all.

And finally, track down those leaks that are filling the bilge and fix them!
 
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Nick J

Sustaining Member
Moderator
Blogs Author
It looks like you're on the right path to getting this sorted out. We owned a 1980 E25+ for 5.5 years before moving to our 35-3, but I spent quite a bit of time in the bilge of the 25+. Yours looks slightly different than mine did. I haven't seen metal straps like that before or the rusty plate (maybe that's just residue on top of the lead?). The ballast on ours was glassed over with the exception of the two bolt holes bigd14 pointed out above. I'm wondering if a previous owner did some work in there. Maybe a grounding plate or an attempt to stabilize the keel?

The primary reason I spent so much time in the bilge of my 25+ was to replace the compression post base. looking at the pictures above and the pictures of your mast step post, you may need to do the same. You can see the deflection of the cabin sole when you look at the 2 screws in the bulkhead. It looks like the sole has sunk and the screws ripped out of the bulkhead. your compression post base looks different as well, maybe a previous owner attempted a repair and didn't get the sole back into its original position. Here's a link to the post I had on my project.


Once I figured out how I wanted to tackle it, it wasn't that bad of a repair.
 

Shankara

Member II
Continued…

I have finally got to a stopping point on this bilge project and I am sleeping a little bit better now.

Picking up where I left off, I went ahead and scraped all of the loose chunks of fiberglass and resin from the Bilge, sanded everything down, and filled it with epoxy. After that, one coat of rust inhibiting paint and two coats of epoxy bilge paint cleaned things up quite nicely. The bilge paint is quite toxic so I made sure to wear a respirator and cover the floor in case of spills.

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I went with a Johnson pump 1250 GPH 12 V Ultima bilge pump. This pump has an integrated float switch sensor which allowed me to save space.

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My solution for attaching the pump to the base of the bilge was to create a sort of ladle out of a piece of aluminum. I then glued the base of the pump to the bottom of the ladle with 5200. The top of the ladle is attached at the opening of the bilge at the cabin sole. The manual bilge pump filter box was attached by gluing elevator bolts to the bottom of the bilge, also with 5200.

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Because my electrical panel is still a rats nest, I chose to do a stop gap solution of wiring the pump directly to my deep cycle battery using a blade battery terminal mount fuse block. Once I rewire the boat, these connections will go up behind the electrical panel and connected to switched distribution.

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I chose a two way switch for the automatic bilge pump. That way when the switch is off the pump is set to turn on automatic, avoiding the chance that the electric pump could accidentally be turned completely off, which can happen with a 3 way switch apparently.

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I used marine grade 16 gauge tinned copper wire and crimped and heat shrunk the connections properly.

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I also installed a whale gusher titan manual bilge pump in the cockpit where the old one used to live. The rope and handle was secured at the bottom of the winch handle pocket so that it can be stashed in there nicely and out of the way.

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Now that I have the basic set up done, I plan to attach a bilge alarm sensor. I’d also like to set up a second electric bilge pump for redundancy.
 

Mark F

Contributing Partner
Blogs Author
Hi Shankara,
Looks great! I like your bilge pump arm. Be careful with the 5200 it is great stuff unless you need to take something adhered with it apart!
 

Loren Beach

O34 - Portland, OR
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
Hi Shankara,
Looks great! I like your bilge pump arm. Be careful with the 5200 it is great stuff unless you need to take something adhered with it apart!
Generally true. Sometimes way too true!
But, in this one case, he can heat the alum. bar with a heat gun and the adhesive should soften up immediately.

BTW, great idea to have a vinyl winch handle pocket for the pump handle! Storing those things while keeping them handy to the pump is difficult on many boats.
 

Shankara

Member II
I’m still quite new to sailing, although I really appreciate the community here with all of the great knowledge. Everyone seems so very nice here.

Some of what I’ve been learning about bilges specifically, is that it seems like a bilge alarm can have advantages in a few situations where someone being notified can help avert catastrophe.
  • While docked
    • While sleeping: A friend told me this happened to him once due to an improperly closed head seacock, the alarm woke him.
    • For someone else to hear at the marina: The security guard at my marina commented that they like bilge alarms in the cockpit so they can hear it.
  • While sailing
    • I was terrified by the story last year about an Ericson sinking off the coast of Florida. I seem to remember part of the problem being that by the time it was noticed, there was too much water to try and stop the leak. This tells me an early warning when in rough conditions may buy enough time to mitigate catastrophe.
For while docked and away from the boat, I did a bit of research today and it looks like there are some remote monitoring solutions, beyond the traditional alarm siren.
This is very fun stuff to learn about for some reason. Thanks all!
 

Loren Beach

O34 - Portland, OR
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
Plan B or maybe C.. have some sensors aboard that link to wifi, and send ambient into to your smartphone or computer.
I know two guys at our club that can 'read' their boat's interior temperature and other sensor information remotely. There are packages from vendors ($$) that do this or one could put together the parts and home brew it.
 

Christian Williams

E381 - Los Angeles
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
Sinking in the slip is to be avoided. And usually it's noticed when the boat becomes half submerged, which is kinda late notice.

Opinions:

--A remote alarm is probably better than an automatic bilge pump for the Peace of Mind Department. Bilge pumps can't keep up with any sort of catastrophe, they're for stuffing box and rain water, and therefore pretty much a false comfort.

--I don't see the need for a bilge alarm while sailing or while aboard. It's hard not to notice water rising over the floorboards.
 

Kenneth K

1985 32-3, Puget Sound
Blogs Author
I chose to do a stop gap solution of wiring the pump directly to my deep cycle battery using a blade battery terminal mount fuse block. Once I rewire the boat, these connections will go up behind the electrical panel and connected to switched distribution.

You probably ought to stick with your current setup, using the battery terminal block.

If you rewire an AUTO bilge pump to the DC panel, you'll have to keep the battery switch set to an ON position, and thus the whole DC panel powered, whenever you are away from the boat.

Battery terminal blocks are great for powering things like auto bilge pumps, alarms, battery monitors, and the like, which you want to keep energized even when power to the rest of the boat is shut down.

Wiring a manually switched bilge pump to the DC panel is fine.

Also, FYI, most pumps with built-in switches ( as well as Water-Witch and Aqualarm type "smart" switches consume a small amount of power at all times. Not a big deal if you stay plugged in to AC 24/7 while at the, but something to considered if you don't have shore or solar power available. The old mercury float switches never "consume" power, they only close a switch when the float rises. There are good applications for both types of switches.

Nice looking bilge.
 
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Loren Beach

O34 - Portland, OR
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
Once I rewire the boat, these connections will go up behind the electrical panel and connected to switched distribution.
I would advise keeping Blue Seas fuse terminal block at the Positive terminal. If you move your direct connection further away than 8 inches (IIRC) you still must fuse the wire right by/at the battery. You now have a safe solution; no reason to change. Changing to something that could potentially negate your insurance coverage seems .... unwise....

BTW, and FWIW, our main panel wiring is almost all stock, and connections are tight. It's been generally "powered up" full time since 1994. (Except for the ten months the boat was on stands last year for the refit.)
If I start to lose faith in the Newmar panel, I will replace it. Gotta say, tightening those little sideways screws on the breakers is rather tedious.... !
 
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SRoyall

Old to Sailing - new to my Ericson 32-200

Christian Williams

E381 - Los Angeles
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
Pretty hard to answer with no idea what boat you have.

Please fill out your forum profile and add the basic stuff to your Signature line. There are many Ericson models and answers often depend on the case at hand.
 
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