E34-2 Traveler

[Phr3d]

So, 34 year old plastic end cap thingies let go. The kit to replace seems to be called Harken Big Boat non-captive bearing car rebuild kit.

Has anyone done this or have advice? There is a replacement car available that has the blocks located on the sides rather than the top. Is that one better for reasons?

It looks like we’re limping home tomorrow without the traveler - but with a Rube Goldberg main sheet block attachment. Thoughts?

 

[Loren Beach]

That new-style Harken traveler car we now have does have the sheaves mounted low. It's great compared to the 1988 version it replaced. If a version of it would work for your boat I highly recommend it.

Some photos in this blog entry.

O34 - Traveler Controls, improved purchase

There is regular discussion here on traveler controls and how much "purchase" is sufficient. Stock setup on the 0-34 was a three part purchase on each side, with the free end cleated off to a cam cleat on the inside of each cockpit combing, just...

ericsonyachts.org

 

[Phr3d]

Old style car with exploding end cap feature in foreground. New style car has the bearings already packed (But requires different blocks which may be delivered today). It is a solid cast with no end caps. Bearings load from the inside?

 

[Christian Williams]

My boat has Ronstan, with the track in a channel. Systems get complicated and incompatible, but if Ronstan, there are still new end caps available.

E381 - Ronstan Traveler Upgrade, Thelonious II

The traveler of a sailboat allows adjustment of the lateral position of the boom and therefore the angle of the mainsail to the wind. With the angle set, main sheet tension controls twist, which allows air to spill from the upper sail. On...

ericsonyachts.org

 

[ConchyDug]

You slide the blue loader in and use the grooves(yellow arrow) to load the balls. Then lock it with the clip. Then slide the loaded car onto the track in the white arrow direction. That's a Harken right? Those plastic end caps don't last forever.

 

[southofvictor]

Has anyone replaced the shackle on this vintage unit? I‘ve scoured Harken’s site and catalog and can‘t find a replacement part number. It doesnt look like a standard D Shackle because it looks like the pin goes through both sides of it. I’ll call Harken tomorrow but thought I‘d throw up the question here. Also, if I can’t find a replacement shackle is there any reason not to use a soft attachement here? I have some short BlueWater sown dyneema runners and I think I could fit one in around the shackle pins.

 

[Phr3d]

The toggle below may not fit, but something like that may be an option. My mainsheet block kept contacting the traveler blocks (which is why the sheet metal brackets are bent) a reason why I updated the whole thing. The soft shackle idea may allow more contact in a tack or jibe when the main sheet is slack.

The shackle on mine had some wear through it. That was one more reason why I went to the new version. It was expensive with the blocks that go with it - but as my picture shows, since there are no end caps, the new version makes me hope that exploding, ping, ping, ping sound is never heard again.

 

[Phr3d]

 

[southofvictor]

Thanks for all the info @Phr3d! I ordered a shackle from Harken this morning for $39.05 plus shipping. If anyone else needs one it’s part number HCP1508. It doesn’t show up online or in their catalog so you have to call customer service to order one. We haven’t suffered noticeably from the main sheet fiddle block contact you mention so I think the shackle should work fine until we decide to update all the traveller components.