Facnor Roller Furling

[windjunkee]

I'm considering getting a Facnor RC-100 continuous line roller furler for Voice of Reason. I like the fact that it is very low profile so the luff length of the genoa is not compromised.
Does anyone have any experience with this system? Its pretty pricey, in that the furler system and a new North 3DL #1 cut for the furler would run around $7,200.00, but if it keeps me off the foredeck during offshore races in 40 knots, it could be worth it.

Jim McCone
Voice of Reason, E-32-2
Redondo Beach, CA

 

[ted_reshetiloff]

When I was in the rigging business we installed and serviced a few. Most were for code-0 sails though. Seemed to be well engineered and robust. The only RC 100 we had experience on was on Jenneau that had been installed incorrectly and needed a new forestay from halyardwrap birdcaging the forstay. They have a puck set-up similar to the Pro-furl units but and need to be installed correctly. Better yet ditch the puck and either use a pennant at the tack or a halyard restrainer to get the halyard angle such that they cant wrap.

FWIW I have felt that Furlex was the furler to use on regular headsails, followed second by Harken. We did a lot of the Harken Cruising Unit I and II furlers and for the money they were a pretty good furler. All of our clients were blue water crusiers not racers.

Given racing I would say the facnor is probably the way to go considering weight. Good luck.


One question though. What are you going to do with a 3DL #1 in 40kts? You cant reef that sail without destroying it can you?

 

[windjunkee]

Ted,

The North loft rep claims that the 3DL can be reefed on a furler and, in fact, has to modify the cut of the sail to accommodate this usage. I'm switching from Ullman to North for this very purpose.
My partner and I race several off-shore double hand races. Last year we were nearing our outer mark and were about 8 miles leeward of it when the winds jumped from 20 - 35 knots in a matter of minutes. It was hairy trying to pull down the #2 and get the #3 blade up. I was taking green water hits every 30 seconds and decided I really didn't want to go through that again if I didn't have to.

Jim McCone
Voice of Reason E-32-2
Redondo Beach, CA

 

[ted_reshetiloff]

I can see the reasoning for sure but my experience has been that if you build a #1 strong enough to handle being reefed (Furled) to say 100%(#3) then you will have one hell of a heavy #1. I always thought of 3DL as a light air cloth but I guess it comes in different weights. My #1 (150%) was built by Quantum about 5 years ago out of Dimension Polyant CXT cloth. Triradial cut cruising laminate cloth. It is a combination of 5.5oz and 6.5oz cloth I think? Anyway they told me max TWS for the sail was 25kts. I've had it up to 45kts AWS (guessing about 38 TWS?) but the sail sure did not like it and it was only for about 30 minutes before we were able to bear off and unload. I dont think the sail would have much shape left after a few hours of that. It does not show any signs of stretch however.

One thing I have done is to add a spinlock XTS single clutch for the furler line as the little stanchion mount ratchet block w/cleat assys. are scary to look at when the headsail is that reefed in that much breeze. Ive always wondered how the continuous line furlers handle that load without the drum slipping on the furler line but I know many ocean racers use that system.

I have pretty much resolved myself to the idea of an inner forestay (detatchable or permanent) for my next boat. Thoughts here are that when the wind exceeds the limits of the furling genny I will set a jib in the inner stay. Probably stay with hank on sails as I would likely keep a #3 and storm jib to be able to set on this stay. Now this would still require going on deck to set the #3 but not to stow the genny. The prudent yachtsman could probably leave the 3 on deck ready to go at a momnets notice. I also think this set up gives a more balanced sailplan versus a deeply reefed furler. CE on the genny moving forward and up as you reef versus forward and down for the main as it is reefed. The staysail moves the CE of the headsail closer to that of the main.

I cant think of any other decent way to set a storm jib with a furler other than with an additional stay. I simply cant imagine being on the bow trying to remove a 150% genny in 35+kts so I can put up a storm jib. ATN makes something called a Gale Sail but it looks like a joke to me as it relies on a zipper to hold it around the furled genny and I know of no one who has taken one of them offshore.

Good topic for sure Phil and I am interested to hear how you make out. Of course all of my rationale here is for shorthanded offshore work and not bouy racing. Maybe your intentions are different?

 

[Saoirse]

Ted,

"ATN makes something called a Gale Sail but it looks like a joke to me as it relies on a zipper to hold it around the furled genny...." If you'll permit me.......the 30 sq. ft gale sail I use on my E26 has piston hanks to secure the luff around the furled headsail. I use this sail instead of reefing a 130% genoa, (I can't stand the mess of a partially furled genoa!). The yacht is surprising well balanced with this sail and a 1st or 2nd reef main. With this rig, windward work is possible in >25 kts. TWS for my (albeit modest) 26 ft sailboat. It also flies nicely from the telescoped whisker pole downwind. Sadly I have no photographs available for proof of this.


Saoirse
E26 ('87)
Cape Porpoise, ME

 

[Saoirse]

I gave an incorrect sail area: 60 sq. ft used (not 30 sq. ft)
Apologies for any confusion!

Saoirse
E26 ('87)
Cape Porpoise, ME

 

[Seth]

Ted is right

It is true that the #1 can be built to survive structurally being used this way, but there is no way the sail will be good in the conditions when you should be using it.

Your boat can make use of a #1 up to around 12-15 KTWS. After this point the boat needs a smaller headsail. A #1 which is fast in these conditions cannot handle 30 knots-furled or not. So if you build the #1 to live in these conditions, it will be too heavy and too flat to be fast in the 0-12 KTWS condition. You will be giving up most of the benefit of the #1 in order to make it work when reefed down. A #2 genoa is much better suited for this type of use, since they are smaller and flatter to begin with.

I suggest you keep a good #1, and if it is breezy, start with the 2, and you can reef that down as needed.

Happy trails!