Help selecting a new mainsheet traveler system

[cdh4088]

Hi, I am about to replace the track for the mainsheet traveler with a more modern unit. its is a 78 E32 with the track in front of the steering pedestal, end-boom sheeting.
I have picked out the model I want, but the options are a 2:1, 3:1, and 4:1 for the traveler controls. In staying with the end-boom sheetingan original mounting location, which leverage should I choose?
Thanks.

 

[Bolo]

Hi, I am about to replace the track for the mainsheet traveler with a more modern unit. its is a 78 E32 with the track in front of the steering pedestal, end-boom sheeting.
I have picked out the model I want, but the options are a 2:1, 3:1, and 4:1 for the traveler controls. In staying with the end-boom sheetingan original mounting location, which leverage should I choose?
Thanks.

I own a E32-3 which has the traveler located just forward of the companion way. I recently replaced the old Schaefer traveler which was a 2:1 setup to a new Harkin 4:1 purchase. Did this on the hard this winter, and you can refer to my blog on the upgrade, so I haven't had the chance yet to try it out in real "sailing world" conditions but I'm counting on it being a big improvement. As for your situation, with a different traveler location than my boat, I can't really speak with any sort of authority at to what purchase you should choose. But it seems to me that a 4:1 purchase would be best since there will be less effort in moving the traveler car to windward when needed. My 2 cents worth of advise.

Mainsheet Traveler Upgrade

Ericson 32-3 Main Sheet Traveler Upgrade

ericsonyachts.org

 

[goldenstate]

Hi, I am about to replace the track for the mainsheet traveler with a more modern unit. its is a 78 E32 with the track in front of the steering pedestal, end-boom sheeting.
I have picked out the model I want, but the options are a 2:1, 3:1, and 4:1 for the traveler controls. In staying with the end-boom sheetingan original mounting location, which leverage should I choose?
Thanks.

You can google Harken Mainsheet Loading Calculator and input your sail parameters for interest.

With end-boom sheeting you have a significant mechanical advantage over most of us with mid boom sheeting arrangements. I suspect 3:1 or even 2:1 would suffice.

What setup do you have now and is it difficult to trim?

 

[cdh4088]

You can google Harken Mainsheet Loading Calculator and input your sail parameters for interest.

With end-boom sheeting you have a significant mechanical advantage over most of us with mid boom sheeting arrangements. I suspect 3:1 or even 2:1 would suffice.

What setup do you have now and is it difficult to trim?

I have the original curved track with adjustment pins. The car has no bearings. Its one of those grab the mainsheet and shove it into place kind of things. Definitely going to upgrade

 

[Loren Beach]

Your mainsheet area is not that much different than mine. Our sheet attachment is toward the rear of the boom and we have a 6 to 1.

O34 - Traveler Controls, improved purchase

There is regular discussion here on traveler controls and how much "purchase" is sufficient. Stock setup on the 0-34 was a three part purchase on each side, with the free end cleated off to a cam cleat on the inside of each cockpit combing, just...

ericsonyachts.org

Not a great picture, but might be good enough.

 

[goldenstate]

I have the original curved track with adjustment pins. The car has no bearings. Its one of those grab the mainsheet and shove it into place kind of things. Definitely going to upgrade

I mean in terms of sheaves (pulleys). Was the inherited arrangement one pulley by another pulley? Two by two?

What about for your main sheet? As I understand it, simplicity is one of the best reasons for end boom sheeting so you should be able to avoid lots of sheaves.

 

[Kenneth K]

Our sheet attachment is toward the rear of the boom and we have a 6 to 1.

I think CDH was asking about traveller purchase and not mainsheet purchase. It appears that Loren has 6:1 on the sheet and 4:1 on the traveller.

 

[toddster]

What is the drawback to too much purchase? Perhaps it's the ability to "play" the line in light air, which you trade for easier handling in heavy air. As I found out with my 6:1 main sheet.
The only option for the traveller that I bought was 4:1. Maybe it's not so much an issue for a traveller, since you have positive control in both directions. But then you need to use two hands.
Playing the traveller with one hand was the primary means of trimming my Hobie 16, but I never do that with my Ericson because I can't actually reach the traveller from the helm.

 

[Kenneth K]

What is the drawback to too much purchase?

What you said, + the fact that nothing is free. To get a 6:1, you have to pull 6 times as much line through the system.

On a mainsheet, that can mean a pile of rope at your feet when the boom is centered. Not such a big deal on a traveller because the range of motion is much less than that of the boom.

 

[Loren Beach]

What you said, + the fact that nothing is free. To get a 6:1, you have to pull 6 times as much line through the system.

On a mainsheet, that can mean a pile of rope at your feet when the boom is centered. Not such a big deal on a traveller because the range of motion is much less than that of the boom.

Lots of line... is why I have installed a pennant between the mainsheet tackle and the boom on this boat and our previous boat (that also had a traveler in the cockpit).

 

[toddster]

Yeah, I have that big ol' pile in the footwell. Really gotta get sheetbags made this season...
The traveller lines aren't too bad, though they are long enough to occasionally tangle with something else. On my boat, they're way back on the transom. On the Hobie cat, (BIG range of motion) the traveller control was spliced to the mainsheet, so you could work both with one hand. Dang - it's been so long I can't quite see it clearly. I think there was just one line to the traveller.

 

[Mr. Scarlett]

It seems we have two traveler threads going on at the same time....
Here's a question for those with end boom sheeting and an upgraded system, where do you have it set up to pull from? Aft or forward? I am assuming a system where the cam cleats/stoppers are at the ends of the track, not on the car itself.
I'm really on the fence with this for my 35-2, which I singlehand (alone or with a guest) more often than not, and usually find myself sitting to windward and steering from the forward side of the cockpit division. If I were stuck behind the wheel it would be pretty awkward trimming from that position. I wouldn't say I 'play' the traveler, but I do use it often.

 

[toddster]

It seems we have two traveler threads going on at the same time....
Here's a question for those with end boom sheeting and an upgraded system, where do you have it set up to pull from? Aft or forward? I am assuming a system where the cam cleats/stoppers are at the ends of the track, not on the car itself.
I'm really on the fence with this for my 35-2, which I singlehand (alone or with a guest) more often than not, and usually find myself sitting to windward and steering from the forward side of the cockpit division. If I were stuck behind the wheel it would be pretty awkward trimming from that position. I wouldn't say I 'play' the traveler, but I do use it often.

As mine is rigged now, there are two cam-cleats on the car. To adjust, I need to put on the autotiller or tiller brake, slide to the back of the cockpit and travel. (On every tack, unless it's centered.). The original (?) Nicro-Fico configuration had no cleats on the traveler at all. Control lines went to turning blocks at the quarters, then forward to cheek-mounted clam cleats on the coaming (i.e. seat back). I suppose one could rig something like that, by removing "on board" cleats. I guess you'd just leave the "lee" one loose, and everything would slide all the way down in a tack until you hauled in the new windward line. Dunno - the bearings were shot on the old traveller and it never worked while I owned the boat.

 

[Michael Edwards]

I recently responded to similar question.
I hated the curved track!!! It had no upside, the main sheet would entangle the throttle and shifter, the blocks hit the pedistal and you had to them drag to new position. I installed a Harken straight tract about two inches forward of the original position;with windward sheeting cars. I agree with others: Harken’s website is terrific. I can fine tune fine at 4 /1. I sail solo a lot. The $$$ cost was high. As far as bridging the between the seats, I used two lengths of 1/2” PVC glued to each other and bolted to the track.
Under the seats I backed the bolts with stainless steel 2”x6” plates. I filled the holes and coated with gel coat. It has performed nicely.

 

[toddster]

Perhaps I shouldn't admit... After abandoning the unrepairable curved track, to support the new straight track, I used a piece of Unistrut. You can get it in stainless, or aluminum (or fiberglass!) but I just used the plain stuff from the hardware store. May come back to bite me one day.