peaman
Contributing Partner
Cleat installed on a 32’:
“Trigger” up so cleat can be relocated:
Schaefer cleat compared to original cleat from Ericson (I think.) Which looks stronger?
Installing Midship cleats on Ericsson 34- Advice?
- Thread starter ALEXIS FERNANDEZ
- Start date
Cleat installed on a 32’:
“Trigger” up so cleat can be relocated:
Schaefer cleat compared to original cleat from Ericson (I think.) Which looks stronger?
AK67
Member III
I got a pair of Barton ones at the end of last season, at $56 vs $160 or more each, I can live with it being black
ALEXIS FERNANDEZ
Ericson 34-2 Owner | Refit in Progress
Correction- not Maureen meant to say mooring.
C. Shamis
Christopher A. Shamis
Assuming the toe rail is solid fiberglass, (which I'd guess it was)... I'd drill my pilot holes, lay a stripe of butyl tape under the track and screw it down and never look back.
But... I think the challenge isn't mounting; it would be in finding a track that could follow the curvature of the toe rail with satisfaction.
I couldn't tell you about mine because it came with the boat, but I'd bet it was factory.
But... I think the challenge isn't mounting; it would be in finding a track that could follow the curvature of the toe rail with satisfaction.
I couldn't tell you about mine because it came with the boat, but I'd bet it was factory.
Sam Vickery
Member III
I have a pair of rail cleats from Garhauer Marine in Upland, California. The price was right and they are well made.
Garhauer's number is (909) 985-7513.
Sam
1986 32-3
Dana Point, Ca
Garhauer's number is (909) 985-7513.
Sam
1986 32-3
Dana Point, Ca
ALEXIS FERNANDEZ
Ericson 34-2 Owner | Refit in Progress
Thanks Sam. Do you happen to know the specific Garhauer model or part number you used?
Also, are yours fixed in place on the toerail, or are they adjustable/sliding?
Trying to figure out which direction makes the most sense for Paloma.
Also, are yours fixed in place on the toerail, or are they adjustable/sliding?
Trying to figure out which direction makes the most sense for Paloma.
Sam Vickery
Member III
Alexis,
The Midship cleat from Gauhauer is Model # MSC-2. It fits 1-1 1/4 Inch T track. Price is $83.49
They slide on the track, but can (and should) be secured when in place.
I hope this helps.
The Midship cleat from Gauhauer is Model # MSC-2. It fits 1-1 1/4 Inch T track. Price is $83.49
They slide on the track, but can (and should) be secured when in place.
I hope this helps.
Like others, I have midships rail cleats on my E34-2. They work fine for springlines (which I definitely use at the dock, as it is often an upwinds, and less often a downwind slip, so midships springlines lines have better angle. (I am too lazy to run springlines all the way to the bow/stern...) The cleats are fine for that, but I would not use them for major loads (like an anchor or something -- I'm sure the rail is strong, but why risk damaging the track? So I have wanted "true" midships cleats... but never *needed* them for anything.
And like @vanilladuck and @bgary , I use a cheek-line (did not know that was what it was called) to pin my boat at the dock when returning singlehanded. Cleats were always fine for that -- I actually rigged a lasso-line though the cleat, dropped the lasso over the dock key-end cleat coming in, then used the primary winch (letting the line slip on it) to slowly brake the boat. Then put the line through the self-tailer, and engage motor forward (with helm over) to pin against dock. Again, no problems, but also not super-high loads. [Or I did this, until I felt comfortable enough with reversing to stop. Now I coast into the slip, reverse to stop, and jump off and cleat on the spring line. Single slip, so no worry that boat is not pinned. Insanely easier and less stressful, but if the engine dies I'll be (somewhat - I coast in slow) sorry...]
I wouldn't hesitate to tie up a dinghy there, though I would not tow from a midships cleat for obvious reasons. For rafting up, I'd make sure any larger loads were being taken by the big bow/stern cleats, or a fore/aft springline to the midships. I'm sure that rail is very strong along its axis, but pulled perpendicular to the axis I'd rather avoid, even though it's probably still very robust.
But I would NEVER drill through the deck in that midships area to install a more robust cleat, for the following reasons:
1. The chainplates are near there, and boy would they be expensive to fix. My E34 (a later build by Pacific Seacraft) has cabin-internal tie-rods that grasp other fittings going through the deck. The most common way those all go bad is water leakage causing corrosion, and then the fix is extremely expensive as those rods are no longer made, so custom metalwork to high specs. So why introduce new leak opportunities?
2. The headliners on these boats are old. If you damage them (read: the zipper goes) it will be hard to ever get it looking right again. So why go in if you don't really need to?
Plus, a big cleat clear of the rail there will bite your foot occasionally (but painfully) when you go forward along the side, and tangle jib sheets when that is least convenient (i.e., in higher wind when they are flogging. The smaller rail-cleats have never done either to me.)
I'll look at the brand on my cleats; they have a clean side and a locking side (where the horn slopes in to help lock the line.) Some may like this, some may not... it's not what I might have chosen, but is working fine for me even with two (fore & aft) springlines attached, albeit 3/8 or 1/2" lines when I do that.
And like @vanilladuck and @bgary , I use a cheek-line (did not know that was what it was called) to pin my boat at the dock when returning singlehanded. Cleats were always fine for that -- I actually rigged a lasso-line though the cleat, dropped the lasso over the dock key-end cleat coming in, then used the primary winch (letting the line slip on it) to slowly brake the boat. Then put the line through the self-tailer, and engage motor forward (with helm over) to pin against dock. Again, no problems, but also not super-high loads. [Or I did this, until I felt comfortable enough with reversing to stop. Now I coast into the slip, reverse to stop, and jump off and cleat on the spring line. Single slip, so no worry that boat is not pinned. Insanely easier and less stressful, but if the engine dies I'll be (somewhat - I coast in slow) sorry...]
I wouldn't hesitate to tie up a dinghy there, though I would not tow from a midships cleat for obvious reasons. For rafting up, I'd make sure any larger loads were being taken by the big bow/stern cleats, or a fore/aft springline to the midships. I'm sure that rail is very strong along its axis, but pulled perpendicular to the axis I'd rather avoid, even though it's probably still very robust.
But I would NEVER drill through the deck in that midships area to install a more robust cleat, for the following reasons:
1. The chainplates are near there, and boy would they be expensive to fix. My E34 (a later build by Pacific Seacraft) has cabin-internal tie-rods that grasp other fittings going through the deck. The most common way those all go bad is water leakage causing corrosion, and then the fix is extremely expensive as those rods are no longer made, so custom metalwork to high specs. So why introduce new leak opportunities?
2. The headliners on these boats are old. If you damage them (read: the zipper goes) it will be hard to ever get it looking right again. So why go in if you don't really need to?
Plus, a big cleat clear of the rail there will bite your foot occasionally (but painfully) when you go forward along the side, and tangle jib sheets when that is least convenient (i.e., in higher wind when they are flogging. The smaller rail-cleats have never done either to me.)
I'll look at the brand on my cleats; they have a clean side and a locking side (where the horn slopes in to help lock the line.) Some may like this, some may not... it's not what I might have chosen, but is working fine for me even with two (fore & aft) springlines attached, albeit 3/8 or 1/2" lines when I do that.