Painting Interlux Bilgekote

[Sean Engle]

This what I used when I painted the interior spaces of my boat. Epoxy-based and needing of a respirator when you apply it, this stuff wears like iron, and totally encapsulates dirt/mold, etc.

Bilgekote Protection Paint | Interlux

Hard wearing coating for bilges, lockers and bulkheads. Chemical resistance to fumes, fuel and oil

www.interlux.com

//sse

 

[steven]

Sean, any recommendation for painting deck over worn gelcoat ?

 

[Sean Engle]

Sean, any recommendation for painting deck over worn gelcoat ?

Not from me, but I am certain someone here is about to make a new entry for that product....and will respond to your question with a nice x-ref....

 

[Loren Beach]

We just had our deck repainted with a new Awlgrip product, with 'glass beads' in the non skid areas. After the new non skid material was on, it was clear coated to slightly 'soften' the feel. It's still a bit rough on knees, but after a decade of coping with smooth and dangerous "non skid" we really like the safety now. Note that the was part of the whole grinding down and repainting of the whole deck. The approach might be different if you are only redoing the non skid areas.

 

[Jamiem]

My wife and I replaced our non-skid with Kiwigrip last year and love it.
Good: Easy to apply with texture adjustment by waiting a bit before final rolling
Can repair damaged spots without redoing whole section.
Bad: Easy to miss or have thin spots (we used white paint) if you don't pay close attention. Best to put down a bit more than you think you need.

Have damaged a couple of spots as I did other deck repairs and fixed Kiwigrip up easy. As noted above it is still unpleasant to put your knees on !

 

[fixntheboat]

We just had our deck repainted with a new Awlgrip product, with 'glass beads' in the non skid areas. After the new non skid material was on, it was clear coated to slightly 'soften' the feel. It's still a bit rough on knees, but after a decade of coping with smooth and dangerous "non skid" we really like the safety now. Note that the was part of the whole grinding down and repainting of the whole deck. The approach might be different if you are only redoing the non skid areas.

I removed every craze and crack, every fitting , ground her to glass ,made deck and core repairs ,overlayed more glass and fairing, Sanded forever…. fast forward Awlgrip applied after awl quick and now I’m seeing the end ,,ha!

 

[fixntheboat]

Here is a shot. Needed to make file smaller to send. Back to sanding

 

[nquigley]

I recently used Rust-Oleum Marine Topside Enamel (white) to paint the many (~20!) storage cubbyholes in my new boat. At about $32 per quart (Home Depot, Amazon), it’s not cheap, but it’s really good for this application. It’s a go-for the marina I’m at too.

 

[jim faugust]

Preperation is everything! 30 yrs ago i used
Interlux Interthane, a thin 2 part paint so as not to “clog” up the non skid pattern. 20 + yrs later I re-prepped and re coated w Interlux Perfection, ( I think the same product re-named) and it has not shown any wear to date and the pattern, it still looks like new. Original decks were all white resulting in high glare and it was a way to reduce glare and protect the deck gel.