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Just bought 1988 28 first things to do?
- Thread starter bentdiver
- Start date
Frank Langer
1984 Ericson 30+, Nanaimo, BC
Congratulations! Some further information might be helpful, as you mention she needs some TLC. Did you have a survey done? Do you have any maintenance records or info from the previous owner? Has she been sailed recently? Is this your first boat, or do you have other boating experience? Is the engine functional?
I am often guided by Nigel Calder's Boatowners Mechanical and Electrical Manual, which covers boat maintenance better than anyone else, in my opinion, with clear descriptions, pictures and tips. I always have it on board and it has saved me alot of money over the years.
Frank
It sort of depends... but especially if it has been sitting unused for a while, it's probably a good idea to inspect, exercise, and replace as needed - everything - at the dock. As much as possible. Before that first joy ride. Especially before you invite people along for a joy ride.
E.g. (And don't ask me how I know...) old rubber parts on the engine (belts, impellers) might self-destruct the first time they are put under load. Stuffing box may need adjustment or repacking. Do make sure you have a wrench on board that fits the stuffing box. Old sheets or halyards might part when you tension them up. Ancient blocks might not run freely, or might come apart when loaded. Batteries might not hold a charge, or the engine might not be charging them. Old sludge might get stirred up from the bottom of the tank and clog filters.
If the boat has been loved and sailed frequently, all this stuff may be in order. Still, if you don't know how old some expendable part is, it might be a good idea to preemptively replace it.
E.g. (And don't ask me how I know...) old rubber parts on the engine (belts, impellers) might self-destruct the first time they are put under load. Stuffing box may need adjustment or repacking. Do make sure you have a wrench on board that fits the stuffing box. Old sheets or halyards might part when you tension them up. Ancient blocks might not run freely, or might come apart when loaded. Batteries might not hold a charge, or the engine might not be charging them. Old sludge might get stirred up from the bottom of the tank and clog filters.
If the boat has been loved and sailed frequently, all this stuff may be in order. Still, if you don't know how old some expendable part is, it might be a good idea to preemptively replace it.
Thank you Frank! I just happen to have a copy of that book in my library!
What size wrench? Can I use an opened end crescent?
Roger Janeway
Member II
There's a lot of discussion in this thread about accessing and adjusting the stuffing box:
ericsonyachts.org
E26-2 : stuffing box drip
I'm sure this has been asked and answered many times, so, apologies for asking again. With the engine and boat at rest, I have a drip about every 10 seconds. At the beginning of the season it was about once every minute or less at rest. I have not been able to check drip while underway and in...
Congrats.
As a practical matter, I'd first obtain towing insurance from Boat US.
Then put the engine through its paces in harbor or nearby. First check oil level and coolant and batteries. Place a new absorbent pad (West Marine) under the engine. Confirm starting and gear shifting. Under way, run the engine at near Wide-Open-Throttle for half an hour with close observance of the temperature gauge.
You're looking for oil or coolant leaks, which the new pad will reveal. And overheating, which the temp gauge will show after running hard for a while. A common cause of overheating under high power loads is a heat exchanger that hasn't been serviced recently.
First peace of mind is a reliable engine, since sailing back into a slip in a new boat is awkward. The boat tow service is there to bail you out and most of us have needed it at least once.
Oh, and now you can fill out your forum signature line with model, year, engine and location. Username/Signature. It will appear under each of your posts and save others from looking the information up.
As a practical matter, I'd first obtain towing insurance from Boat US.
Then put the engine through its paces in harbor or nearby. First check oil level and coolant and batteries. Place a new absorbent pad (West Marine) under the engine. Confirm starting and gear shifting. Under way, run the engine at near Wide-Open-Throttle for half an hour with close observance of the temperature gauge.
You're looking for oil or coolant leaks, which the new pad will reveal. And overheating, which the temp gauge will show after running hard for a while. A common cause of overheating under high power loads is a heat exchanger that hasn't been serviced recently.
First peace of mind is a reliable engine, since sailing back into a slip in a new boat is awkward. The boat tow service is there to bail you out and most of us have needed it at least once.
Oh, and now you can fill out your forum signature line with model, year, engine and location. Username/Signature. It will appear under each of your posts and save others from looking the information up.
u079721
Contributing Partner
How exciting. Your challenge now is to balance boat projects with getting out on the water and enjoying your new adventure. Great comments above about the engine and stuffing box. I was going to suggest that you go over the boat as if you were taking her out on a charter, learning where everything is. Where are the water tanks, how many, where are the deck fills, which is water, which is fuel. Where are the batteries, do they need water. Which of those lines is a halyard, which is a sheet, how does the reefing work. Where is the anchor, where is the rode. That sort of thing.
And most important - locate all the through hulls, and know what they go to. Have fun!
And most important - locate all the through hulls, and know what they go to. Have fun!
David Grimm
E38-200
The first thing you should do is take a good look at what is in your wallet. This is the last time you'll see it. Lol. No really. I'm sure Christians advice is a good start.
Maybe. Maybe not. You have to get in there and try it. I have one crescent wrench that looks like it should work but just doesn’t quite open wide enough. Another that opens wide enough, but there isn’t enough clearance in the compartment to turn the handle of that big wrench. Sometimes a basin wrench (for kitchen sink drains) will work. Sometimes you have to saw off the handle of a crescent wrench to make one that will fit. A small stillson might do the trick, but it might chew up the nut.
BTW, don’t just run the engine at the dock - also put it in gear and get it up to cruising RPM. The dock lines will (should) hold you in place, but this may cause a bit of a stir in the marina, so use discretion. This will reveal how much water drips from the stuffing box, as well as put the motor under load and reveal any odd alignment or vibration problems.
In the same way, in light air, you can hoist the sails and “sail” against the dock lines, within reason. At least enough to exercise all the rigging. Which reminds me; winter time, light east winds, and both my immediate neighbors gone for the season - I need to make another stab at working out the spinnaker rigging.
Re: Boat US - Check to see if they actually have a tow service available in your area. They will sell you the insurance and take your money, even if there is no service available. But you do get the West Marine Gold discount thing.
That reminds me of another “rule” I learned the hard way: Always carry or tow a “dinghy.” Even if it’s only an inflatable SUP stuffed in a locker. Getting stranded on a grounded or inoperable boat in cold water with no way to shore is not fun.
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The man whom thinks a boat is expensive has Never met my Ex Girlfriend.
Slick470
Sustaining Member
Personally, I'd go through the whole boat and take everything off of it. Empty out all the lockers, cubbies, drawers, etc. and give everything on and now off the boat a basic clean. This process will give you an idea of what you have and where everything is (or was) on your boat. Make notes of were systems are located. Look for corrosion, wear and tear, and damage. Open an close valves. Turn stuff on and off to see if it works (for anything complex look at the owners manual first). Write down manufacturers and model numbers, take lots of pictures of anything and everything so you can reference stuff when you are away from the boat.
For all the stuff you took off the boat, spend some time to figure out what it is or what it does before you decide what to do with it. Some of it will have value to you, some of it will have value to someone else, some or maybe all of it will be junk. Only put stuff back on the boat once you decide that it needs to be there. Sell, donate, recycle, or toss the rest. (I'm bad at this part and still have a lot of random stuff stored under my basement stairs) Make sure you have a good set of the USCG or state required safety gear. Don't assume the stuff that came with the boat is still good, inspect or replace.
I agree with the others with the suggestions to do basic mechanical maintenance so you know the boat has a good starting point. Take lots of notes and start making to-do lists and note when you replaced things so you can start building a maintenance log for yourself (and probably the next guy) Start putting things in order of precedence with safety at the top and nice to have at the bottom.
A lot of stuff, like standing rigging for example, will depend a lot on what previous owners have done. If it was replaced a couple years ago, it's probably fine and should just be inspected for damage or wear, but if it's original, you should probably consider replacing it soon.
Good luck and have fun.
For all the stuff you took off the boat, spend some time to figure out what it is or what it does before you decide what to do with it. Some of it will have value to you, some of it will have value to someone else, some or maybe all of it will be junk. Only put stuff back on the boat once you decide that it needs to be there. Sell, donate, recycle, or toss the rest. (I'm bad at this part and still have a lot of random stuff stored under my basement stairs) Make sure you have a good set of the USCG or state required safety gear. Don't assume the stuff that came with the boat is still good, inspect or replace.
I agree with the others with the suggestions to do basic mechanical maintenance so you know the boat has a good starting point. Take lots of notes and start making to-do lists and note when you replaced things so you can start building a maintenance log for yourself (and probably the next guy) Start putting things in order of precedence with safety at the top and nice to have at the bottom.
A lot of stuff, like standing rigging for example, will depend a lot on what previous owners have done. If it was replaced a couple years ago, it's probably fine and should just be inspected for damage or wear, but if it's original, you should probably consider replacing it soon.
Good luck and have fun.
Stuart 28-2
Member II
I just bought a 1988 28-2 mid last year. I love it. In addition to all of the above I'd make sure the bilge pumps are working. Might be able to do a bucket test first fairly easily if the bilge is nasty and you don't want to pour water into it. However, I would thoroughly clean the bilge asap also. One of the most unpleasant jobs but got to be done.
Re discussion on stuffing box. They were built with that but mine was replaced with a shaft seal at some time. I'd check and be sure of which you have. Both require checks and maintenance.
Re discussion on stuffing box. They were built with that but mine was replaced with a shaft seal at some time. I'd check and be sure of which you have. Both require checks and maintenance.
I like the idea of cleaning the bilge, however impo if you don't know how old the bilge pump is it a good time to replace it along with the wiring to it.
Cheap insurance.
While on this subject, my bilge pump is mounted on a wooden block which has seen better days.
Since I also recently purchased my boat it's one of my next projects.
I am wondering if anyone has replaced this block ( if it's normal ) and how you would secure the new one?
Cheap insurance.
While on this subject, my bilge pump is mounted on a wooden block which has seen better days.
Since I also recently purchased my boat it's one of my next projects.
I am wondering if anyone has replaced this block ( if it's normal ) and how you would secure the new one?
Please fill out your Signature line so we know what boat you have.
Agreed, act as if its never been cleaned before..of course adjust your cleaning regimen to match the actual conditions you encounter (maybe its not really that dirty). The point is, this attitude will lead you into all the nooks and crannies and I guarantee you will learn at least something and maybe alot! Just be advised, this can lead to pages of to-do lists and if you are as easily distracted as myself, lots of rabbit holes!
Done and sorry about that.
Probably the most boring line here.
Not at all, very interesting boat. We've all been following a resurrection for years,, which I'm sure you've already seen.
ericsonyachts.org
Ericson 25CB Resurrection
This is the ongoing story and documentation of the resurrection of a 1973 Ericson 25CB called "Janie Ann". I chose the term "Resurrection" rather than "restoration" deliberately as we view this project as an effort to give a beautiful Ericson a...
Red Squirrel
1985 Ericson 28-2 Hull# 607
Welcome to the Ericson Club! You will get a lot of info here.
I have a 1985 28-2 that I am currently restoring
I would immediately check/ change your cockpit scupper hose if it is the original.
If it fails, it will sink you.
I redid mine so the both cross over and flow out the aft sides to dedicated thru-hulls.
Drive Shaft packing gland check.
Tighten keel Bolts. Lucky for you the 28 has them all easily accessible. I did 180FT-Lbs on my large ones and my short one was around 25. I had to cut it down due to corrosion and built a shoulder screw to mount it. You can drop and re-bed the keel with the nuts on. It is a little bit of a process with the jack stands but manageable.
check Mast step for leaks...mast cabling thru the tight hole are suspect to water leaks into the deck. I'm getting my core in this area replaced now
Check the mast wires run along the bulkhead. Ericson stapled thru all mine when they put the liner up.
For the engine, if you need to re-power, a Beta-14 fits very nicely. You need to fill the old engine mount holes and drill new ones.
If you don't have the shower option and pump, then you have a hidden bilge under the head in front of the mast step that never empties. I added a pump to manually drain mine every now and then.
Sorry, I'm not on that often but I'm down to the studs in my boat. Nothing is a mystery anymore. I probably have a picture of the underneath of something if you need to know.
Good luck...