New Genoa sizing 38-200

[Loren Beach]

Backstay trivia

Nice photo! That 2+2 main looks great even reefed down.

FWIW, our '88 had the factory Navtec BS integral adjuster. After one not-successful cylinder rebuild I replaced it with a new SailTec unit.
I do use this to tension the forestay every time we go out sailing.

One bit of trivia I learned from the rigger that put all our new standing rigging on a few years ago was to cut the backstay shorter so that a turnbuckle could be installed just above the hydraulic adjuster. That turnbuckle is normally left at full extension.
That way, in case your cylinder loses ability to hold pressure while you are at sea or on your annual vacation, you can always turn the barrel of the turnbuckle all the way tight and have enough tension to sail the boat reasonable well.
Sort of a "belt and suspenders" approach.


Best,
Loren

 

[Gary Peterson]

We have a 155% UK passage maker as our head sail. We have to use the outer track when the sail is fully deployed as the inside track is also too short. If we reef the head sail to ~ 140 or so, then we can use the inside track. We can carry the 155 comfortably upwind to ~ 14 true then we roll in some and flatten the main. Where the 155 comes in to it's own is when we are on a reach or a broad reach. Two weeks ago we sailed to South Bass Island in Lake Erie for our last sail of the year on a 16-18 knot reach and averaged around 71/2 knots for the trip with the 155 fully deployed . Paid for it on the return as we had 20 on the nose.
We also have a Navtec hydraulic back stay tensioner and had to have it rebuilt three years ago ($230.00). Been fine ever since.

 

[Seth]

Here is the answer

The reason you are 18" short on the inside track is due to the fact that your clew is relatively high (not a bad thing for cruising). The reality is that with a low cut clew, you can get a 153% sail to fit well on the inner track-you can probably get a 155% to sheet OK in light air, but have no room to move the car back as the breeze comes up. So, for the 38, if you want a full sized (let's say 153%) sail, you have to stay with a fairly low clew height-not ridiculous, but probably lower than you would want for a furling sail.

For a furler to work on the inner track, 150% is about as big as you can go and get good results..
Of course, this is just MHO!

Cheers,
S

 

[treilley]

I have discovered the exact same thing with my 35.

 

[Gary Peterson]

Seth,
That is totaly correct in our case.

 

[Seth]

Inner track thing

Right. In fact, this is the case for the entire family of new generation 32, 34, 35 and 38 (381, 200, etc.). All of these boats are so similar that you will find the relative sizes and locations of deck hardware to be consistent..

Oh, well. At least they are all plenty powered up with a 150% or 153% headsail and won't suffer for lack of another 2% LP....

Cheers,
S

 

[treilley]

I did better racing this year with a properly trimed 150% than I did with a loose footed 155% last season. I could outpoint all of the other crusing boats and some of the racing boats.

 

[Seth]

Uh-huh

Right-this is a function of sheeting angle. To get to the 7-9 degree angle modern boats need to sail optimally upwind, you need to be closer to centerline than you are with the rail track, and you really want the leech of the headsail to be very close to the top spreader (this is for sails in the 147-155% ballpark) when trimmed in. Roughly use 3-4" in under 5 knots, 2-3" in 5-8 knots, and just touching or 1-2" in anything above that). These approximate settings are assuming you are wanting full power from the sail.

Once you are at the top of the range for the headsail and have dropped the car as far back as you can to depower, you will see the leech has eased out away from the spreader again-which is OK, since you are fully trimmed in down low..

Go get em,
S