Original running rigging layout for a 32-3

Mindscape

Member III
Does anyone have a picture or diagram of the original layout of the halyards, sheets, vang, reefs, etc. for a 32-3 that was delivered with the option to have all lines led aft? I rigged the boat this spring and worked thru a couple of different configurations that worked ok, but my boat didn't have any of the stoppers labled so I'm not sure if I rigged it as intened.

Any additoinal experience or ideas would be welcome. In general thinngs worked out ok, but I'd like to see if there is a better way.

TIA
 

Seth

Sustaining Partner
deck layout

No surprise to you I'm sure, but I do have the sailplan and would be happy to work through different options with you.

You know how to find me, and best of luck!
Seth
 

clayton

Member III
rigging layout 32-3

I have a drawing of this looking down on the deck in the owner's manual, I can grab it later this week and email it to you or try to post it here. Let me know if you want it. (I don't know if it's included in the specs and docs info on this site as I've never downloaded the info.)
Clayton
 

Mindscape

Member III
Clayton - love to see the diagram - I don't believe I have a copy of that in the documentation I have. If you can post here great - others might be interested - and you can email it I would sure appreciate it.

Seth - I'll look you up at some point to get your thoughts - thanks for the help with my main - in worked out great!.
 

Geoff Johnson

Fellow Ericson Owner
I'm not sure of the original plan. In any event, I have changed my rigging around considerably, most recently setting up the main so that it can be reefed from the cockpit.
 

Mindscape

Member III
Geoff - do you have pictures of what you've done?? I'm trying to determine how to best run all the lines, which winches to replace with self tailers and how many clutchs I need (and which side). I've got the reef lines, the halyards, vang and mainsheet all led to the cockpit. I'm not sure I've got things set up best way for my boat yet. I know you've replaced the clutchs and winches, any advice??
 

Geoff Johnson

Fellow Ericson Owner
My mast is out this year so I can't take a photo. However, this is how things are currently organized:

Port

Original Barient winch

Rope clutch (Lewmar D2):
1) Spinnaker pole topping lift
2) Genoa halyard
3) Traveler car lead

Harken Cam-matic for main outhaul. This doesn't work. Too much resistance when main is up, so I need to add blocks or a Harken Magic Box (discontinued, but I think someone is making something similar)

Starboard

Original Barient self-tailng winch for mainsheet

Harken Cam-matic for traveler car lead

Rope clutch (Lewmar D2):
1) Reefing line for main (tack). (I needed a fourth lead on the deck organizer, so I stacked a Schaeffer stainless 2 lead on top of the Schaeffer 3 lead orgainizer. I had switched these to stainless from the OEM aluminum. Unfortunately, Schaeffer does not make a six lead organizer in stainless.)

2) Main halyard
3) Spinnaker hayard

Lewmar 16 self-tailing halyard winch (replacing the Barient non-self-tailing)

Last year I also replaced my primary Barients with self-taining Harken 48's.

The three self-tailing winches I added are a huge improvement.

Also, the reefing now works very well with the downhaul right next to the halyard . . . just pay out the halyard while pulling in on the reefing line. I ran the line through the organizer, then through a block attached to the mast plate and then through a small shackle attached to the gooseneck (to keep the tack forward). The clew is reefed with a separate line.

And today I finally got the Garhauer EZ Glide genoa cars installed. On our boat, this requires removing the aft shroud chainplate attachment so the car can be put on the track from the bow. Removing the u-bolts is a big chore, but I am glad I am doing it since two of the three aluminum backing blocks removed so far (which tie the u-bolts to the stainless rods) show quite a bit of corrosion due to leaking from the deck.
 

Mindscape

Member III
Geoff - thanks for the detailed reply. I don't have any self tailers on the cabin top. I'm thinking the first thing to do is get a self tailer for the man sheet. Interestingly enough the main sheet winch on my boat is on the port side, where yours is on the starboard side. Did Ericson change how this was done? You also mentioned that your mainsheet winch was self tailing, mine is not. I have to assume that there were options on how this was configured. I believe my boat came with the option to have all the lines led aft, maybe this changed the way the cabin top was configured.
 

Mindscape

Member III
I was looking at the options that were on my boat when purchased (in the PO's documentation) and my boat was delivered with a package for all lines led aft, including reef and vang. It did not have the spinnaker or racing package.
I wish I had the longer traveler, this may be a mod I need to make. Where are the spinnaker winches located??
I'm sure you're right on the self tailer and wondering how I got along without it. I think this needs to be a Christmas present for myself!
Thanks for posting the picture, soon I will have your entire boat documented via the pictures you've posted.
 

Geoff Johnson

Fellow Ericson Owner
The longer track would be an easy modification if you use straight track and towers from Harken or Garhauer. I had to have mine bent as I was replacing the OEM Schaeffer track (that worked so poorly I had to climb around the dodger to move the car.) Also, a big advantage of the longer track is that it basically does away with the need for a vang (unless you are one of those diehards that finds it necessary to lift the sail in light air).

I attach a photo of such an installation on a 32-3 in Utah (using Garhauer towers, which, I believe, are much cheaper than the Harken's). My main sheet goes forward, along the boom and back through the deck organizer. The setup you see here can't be used with a dodger.



The spinnaker winches are located on the coaming in front of the primaries.
 

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clayton

Member III
32-3 running rigging layout

I can't get the image to upload to this site from my hard drive. Is there something I'm missing? I've tried renaming the image with the different extensions but no luck. I scanned it in with an HP Officejet, and it shows as a .bmp on my computer. When I try to upload, keeps coming back with that Microsoft Explorer 'Can't Find Server' page. Any suggestions?, this is driving me nuts...
Clayton
 

Mindscape

Member III
I noticed in the picture Geoff posted that the hatch just aft of the mast opens towards the stern. On my boat that hatch opens towards the bow. Does anyone know if this was an option from the factory, or why some were installed one way and others the opposite way?? With the opening towards the bow (like mine) the vang is in the way when you open the hatch. I'd like to get a solid vang, but I'd also like to be able to open the hatch. At least with the 'soft' vang I can move it to open the hatch.
 

Loren Beach

O34 - Portland, OR
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
vent hatch postion...

On our '88 they installed the vent hatch (Lewmar size 20) facing forward. Ours is far enough aft on the cabin top to allow vang clearance. However, when I replaced that hatch because of UV crazing and the failure of the "roll stop" hinges, I turned it around.

One fine day, when you neglect to dog the hatch, and the cabin interior inhales some spray from forward... you might decide to make this change as well. Do not ask me how I came by this knowledge.
:)
The previous similar learning experience with our size 70 forward hatch was much more persuasive. :eek:
Nowadays we always keep it dogged when under way.

I figured that the vent could "ventilate" just as well, whether the boat was faced into the breeze at anchor or not. Faced aft, it exhausts warm air.

I would vote for facing it aft and letting the vang have elbow room.

My .02,
Loren in PDX
Olson 34 #8
 

Geoff Johnson

Fellow Ericson Owner
Here is Clayton's rigging diagram. I see there is a reefing winch which I do not have. Must be for reefing the clew with a line running through the boom. I do it by hand using a line from the aft end of the boom cleated to the aft side of the boom.

Also, my winches are a size larger (48's for the primaries, 16 for the main halyard and 32 for the mainsheet winch.)

Finally, why is the main salon hatch shown to be in front of the mast? It isn't.

BTW, to upload a photo, you have to first select the file from your computer and then press the "upload" button to send it to the site server.
 

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clayton

Member III
32-3 running riging layout

Geoff -
Thanks for posting the diagram. I followed the steps for posting but it still doesn't work. No problem doing it for email attachments, just to this site. AOL has the same procedure - Select file, then click Upload. We've been having problems with our modem, so maybe there's a glitch...
The diagram is for a 32-200, which does have the main cabin hatch forward of the mast, and the v-berth hatch on the sloped forward end of the cabinhouse. Same hull, different cabinhouse, different interior layout.
Boat came setup for single-line reefing with blocks sewn into the luff section of the main, tying off to a block at the end of the boom. There is a short section of track with 2 sliding blocks (with a tie-off ring attached to the blocks) on the end of the boom, starboard side. The reefing lines come out of the end of the boom, through the clew, and tie off to the blocks on the track. Reefing lines run forward through the boom, down to the deck plate and back to the stoppers through deck organizers. I use a cunningham to adjust luff tension rather than the single-line reefing. My setup is a little different from the spec diagram.
Port to starboard:
Spin halyard, genoa halyard in double stopper
Reef 1, reef 2, boom vang in triple stopper
Traveler in cam
---------------
Traveler in cam
Mainsheet, main halyard in double stopper (use self tailer)
Cunningham, lazyjack tail in double

I don't have the topping lift setup as I've been flying the chute using the ATN Tacker. When I get some crew and a pole, then I'll rerig the topping lift and a starboard spin halyard... For next season, I'm going to double up the purchase in the mainsheet system and lead the tail to a cam next to the companionway, starboard side. (Like yours, mine goes forward to the mast, then down and back under the dodger.) Tried it last year with a friend's system for a 38 and it works great, don't need the winch for the mainsheet. On the 32-200, the sheeting is more like forward 1/3rd boom than mid boom.

Thanks again for posting the diagram. I have a sailplan diagram also if anyone needs that.
Clayton
 
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