Replacing Lifelines

N.A.

E34 / SF Bay
Slick470 mentioned racing rules... I had the same issue: they keep changing for the dyneema lines. FYI, for the stainless we are no longer allowed to have vinyl coated (hides and apparently promotes corrosion), so uncoated is probably the way to go... but it's more abrasive for your foresail when coming across the deck, so you might want to put roller tubes or something along the forward part of the lines where the jib rubs.
 

frick

Sustaining Member
My Old E29 has dyneme lifelines. It was a fun project. I learned how to do the brumal splicing on line. I also used the round friction free rings and lashing. The old SS life line has half the strength of the dyneme. The whole project including and new splicing tool was 125 bucks.
 

Kenneth K

1985 32-3, Puget Sound
Blogs Author
The old SS life line has half the strength of the dyneme.
Maybe in a lab setting, and then only under tensile testing.

But the tensile strength of SS wire is several thousand pounds. Likely, the stanchions will bend before the wire will snap. So the SS wire was never really the weak link in the lifeline system (assuming the wire is in good condition).

But dynema is much, much less resistant to abrasion, friction, heat, and sharp objects. Tensile strength does not imply durability. FWIW.
 
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Loren Beach

O34 - Portland, OR
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
But the tensile strength of SS wire is several thousand pounds. Likely, the stanchions will bend before the wire will snap. So the SS wire was never really the weak link in the lifeline system (assuming the wire is in good condition).
There were several (mildly) bent stanchions on either side of our boat when we purchased it. The lifeline wires were stained with rust on the ends and everywhere there was a nick in the vinyl. The OEM closed barrel turn buckles were frozen. However, nothing had ever broken.
After replacing the whole lifeline system with uncoated wire and new open turnbuckles, I later did a major upgrade to all (Straightened!) stanchions with oversized G10 plates underneath each one, set in epoxy mush. Then added braces to all the midship stanchions and double-braced the gate stanchions.

I would recommend doing this to any boat. not just boats built by Ericson.

However, I have seen an actual break in a shroud wire, from stress corrosion. So, putting off lifeline/standing rig replacements (especially in salt water) is a really bad idea.
 
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