Restoring E27

[don954]

I am restoring an Ericson 27. I am just getting started, but thought some might want to see the progress & other info about the boat. I have started a "blog" on it with lots of photos, you can see it here:

http://www.helpmenetwork.com/boat-web-blog/projects.html

If anyone has any info on the standing rigging plan, please let me know, the mast is down and I have no idea of which line goes to what chain plate...

 

[Fencer21]

Hi don,

As a matter of fact I have just finished a refit of my E27 (#517). It was hauled in September and I got it back into the water in mid December.

When we re-stepped the mast, I too had no clue as to how and where the standing rigging was laid out. Once the mast was up, we went around and attached the lines in the places that was most logical for them to go. It happened to workout. I checked the document(s) section of this website for a diagram of the rigging but I couldn't find anything. When I get some pictures taken I'll post them on this thread or I can email them to you.

I was wondering, is your boat sitting in a boat yard? Will you be doing the restoration yourself or will they be doing it for you? Also are you in Florida and did your boat sustain damage from this past seasons hurricanes?

Once you're finished with this whole thing you're going to very impressed, and pleased.

 

[don954]

Its in a boat salvage yard, it was one of the hurricane boats that were deemed good enough for some sucker like me to rebuild. I made a deal with the yard owner to let me use the yard for a few months. This place is great, so many old parts boats that I can find just about anything. Its kind of sad though, I watch them as I work drag boats that didn’t make it through the storms intact enough to rebuild to a area where they crush them (after stripping the parts off of them). But, I have lots of cheap serviceable parts all around me, and no one really cares if I get grinding dust and such on the ground..

 

[Dave Hussey]

Me Too

Guys,
I'm also doing restoration on an E27 here in the Seattle Washington area. Mine is in the water, and unfortunately not near enough to work on her at will, so the going is slow (I'm doing it myself) So far, verrrry little progress. But I found a boom finally after much anguish (see my earlier post on this)
Looking forward to sharing horror stories!
Dave Hussey

 

[bigtyme805]

Don quite a project you have ahead of yourself. I have to give you credit because I am sure you could have went another route. I just did a minor refit and the hull is in the process of being painted.

I guess in a sense you are lucky that they have salvage yards like the one you are in. In California they do not have that luxury, finding parts is a nightmare, but for you it appears you don't have to go far. I will follow your progress. Good luck.

Don Anderson
Amigo E27
Channel Islands, CA

 

[bigtyme805]

pic of recent refit

Amigo with new canvas and paint

 

[jkenan]

I look forward to hearing more about what you are doing with your E27. I just closed on an E29 which surveyed very well structurally, but needs some upgrades mechanically and cosmetically (and I'll add some comfort upgrades in there as well, by adding shower along with A4 upgrades, autopilot, bimini, stereo, etc). While I'm at it, I will be checking in with this board regularly. Good luck, and I'll look forward to hearing of your progress.

John

 

[don954]

The blog is updated with the latest repair!

I have almost finished the fiber glassing on the aft, just need to fair and sand it. Next big project is the bow repairs.
http://www.helpmenetwork.com/boat-web-blog/projects.html#aft_milestone

 

[Moonstar]

Good Luck.

I know that you have a big job ahead of you, and I commend your commitment to such a project. I would like you to know how I feel about the Ericson 27. "Moonstar" has taken me from Biloxi to Vera Cruz over the past nine years in all types of conditions. Although not designed as an offshore boat, I have spent five days in her ghosting around oil rigs along the Louisiana coast. My wife and I spent twelve hours tied behind a shrimper in a 40 knot el norté in the Bay of Campeche. Through all my stupidity, "Moonstar" never once gave me doubt about our ultimate safety. Although I was very, very scared.

Have no doubt that your boat will repay you for your attention.

I will be following your progress on your blog, and wish you all the luck.

Peace,
Chuck

 

[don954]

thanks!

started in on the bow repairs this afternoon. another challenge, but im getting better at glassing, so i expect it to be good. The aft was hard, it has such a complex shape it took days of sanding, shaping and grinding. The bow is just a curve that has to be made really strong (several layers of roving and matt)

 

[briangsmith]

through hulls??? (E25)

sounds like maybe this is a good place to 're-pose' this question, for all you self-fixer-uppers out there...

i'm needing to replace all the through hulls on my new, '78 E25-
what's there i'm sure is original: gate valves, green and FROZEN!
(otherwise the boat is in really good condition)

tips? tricks of the trade for getting these old 'hood ornaments' out??
brass vs nylon seacocks????

thanks all-

brian smith
homer, alaska

 

[don954]

tips? tricks of the trade for getting these old 'hood ornaments' out??
brass vs nylon seacocks????

I like the brass seacocks..

If after you use some rust dissolver, liquid wrench, etc you cant get it off, use a dremel tool to cut the retaining nut. Use some calk dissolver on it's seal, then pop it out with a soft mallet.

Be sure to wire the new ones to a zinc

 

[Emerald]

Brian,

Definately replace all those, go to flanged seacocks, increae 1/2 stems to 3/4 stems as needed to use flanged seacocks not ball valves perched on a stem. To get the old ones out, my experience has been to take a large pipe wrench and put it on the old gate valve, and inevitably, the gate valve won't unscrew, but you'll break the old thru-hull free - it will spin in the hull. At this point, hacksaw off the old gate valve, and then drill two opposing holes through the lock ring that holds the old thru-hull stem in the hull. A hit with a cold chisel will then split the ring easily, and the thru-hull then can usually be spun out of the hull. If the thru-hull doesn't break loose when you try to unscrew the gate valve, you might need to use heat on the exterior of the thru-hull to make the old bedding compound let go. I have not had this problem (the bedding always seems to be shot when I've done this), but if it won't let go, heat will make it go. Of note, go spend a couple bucks to buy real honest to god cutting fluid, not just oil for doing your hacksawing and drilling. You will be amazed at how fast and easy you can cut this stuff with a cutting fluid on your blade. I've become particularly found of a product called "Tap-Magic" (no affiliation with anyone selling the stuff). Check here for a page I put together awhile back on thru-hull removal and seat repair (note, my website it being reorganized, so not all links are happy):

http://home.comcast.net/~ericson-yachts/thull/thull.html


one last thought, use bronze not plastic. The yard I get hauled at has actually had a couple boats knock the exterior part of plastic thru-hulls off when they hit underwater objects. They have never seen this happen with bronze.


-David
Independence 31
Emerald

 

[Morgan Stinemetz]

Watch out for them brass seacocks, guys. They are a bitch to keep polished.
Morgan Stinemetz

 

[Loren Beach]

Valve trivia...

Morgan is right! Expecially having to dive under the boat and polish 'em....

I think that you mean "Bronze". Brass is a no-no on thruhulls and valves.
If you go the little "Search" label in the blue title bar on this page and enter words like seacock, or thru hull, or bronze, or marlon, you will find a wealth of prior commentary on this site. It's all good -- from many owners with good real-world experience -- even the ones that disagree with me.

There are some great pictures posted as well in prior threads. Remember that you can click and drag any picture off to your computer desktop for later printout and contemplation.

Something we can all agree on -- use a flanged ball-valve, secured to a backing plate that is glassed to the hull. Note that if you relocate a valve, it takes quite a few layers of cloth and roving to properly close the old hole, and you need to slope the adjacent layers of hull layup on both sides. Any competant shipwright should know this, but read the concise Gougeon Bros booklet on epoxy repairs for your own initial guidence.

One other note: underwater thruhulls should not be "nylon" or "brass" or "plastic"..... While you can source cheaper nylon/plastic thruhull fittings for above the water, the underwater parts should be Marlon (glass reinforced) or Bronze. Note two: if epoxied in, the Marlon fitting can be ground flush on the exterior like ours were.

Cheers,
Loren in PDX

 

[don954]

I think that you mean "Bronze".

I know i ment bronze... -grin-

I dont like the plastic ones due to them becomming brittle with age, FYI, is this much of a problem for boats that are in the water all the time?

 

[bigtyme805]

New Bimini

Just finished the new custom bimini for my E27.

Don Anderson
Channel islands

 

[don954]

FYI, blog has been updated

getting close here..!