Check out www.cebeckman.com for seacocks, etc. I found everything I needed there, in stock, when all the other places had 1 or 2 and had to order, etc. what I needed. Its also in a very cool building that is maybe 200+ years old that used to be on the waterfront where the whaling ships pulled up. RT
Seacock Install, "Traditional"
- Thread starter Loren Beach
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- install seacock traditional
gareth harris
Sustaining Member
You also must use a properly sized hole saw.
Correct:
Incorrect:
Is there any way of correcting that if done wrong, i.e. slightly filling in a hole cut with a hole saw one size too big? Perhaps fitting the through hull, covering it with wax, and adding thickened epoxy into the hole from the top?
Yes, I did it. Twice before I realised the mistake, in fact. I checked with the maintenance manager at the yard before drilling, but...
Gareth
Freyja E35 #241 1972
Enlarging a hole in the hull.
All, I'm sure there are several ways to enlarge an existing hole in the hull, i.e., when changing the engine raw water fitting from the factory 1/2" to 3/4" to accommodate a seacock (minimum size is 3/4"). One method is to fill the empty hole with a wooden tapered plug, saw it off somewhat flush with the hull and center a cutter in the plug. An equally effective, way I've found that is faster and less wasteful of a tapered plug is to fit a 3/4" cutter in your drill and cradle the cutter in the bottom of the 1/2" hole. Tip the top of the cutter an inch or so from the hull at the top (all this is more easily done on the outside of the hull) and slowly start a crescent shaped cut into the glass hull and at the same time slowly orient the drill and cutter parallel to the hull. The result will be a 3/4" hole 1/4" higher at the top of the hole than the original. It goes as smooth as glass (ooh my puns) and takes mere seconds to cut. Of course the same holds true for any sized hole but the engine intake is probably the most common done. Keep cool this weekend, I know it's darned hot here in SoCal, 81 degrees at 2100. Glyn Judson, E31 hull #55, Marina del Rey, CA
All, I'm sure there are several ways to enlarge an existing hole in the hull, i.e., when changing the engine raw water fitting from the factory 1/2" to 3/4" to accommodate a seacock (minimum size is 3/4"). One method is to fill the empty hole with a wooden tapered plug, saw it off somewhat flush with the hull and center a cutter in the plug. An equally effective, way I've found that is faster and less wasteful of a tapered plug is to fit a 3/4" cutter in your drill and cradle the cutter in the bottom of the 1/2" hole. Tip the top of the cutter an inch or so from the hull at the top (all this is more easily done on the outside of the hull) and slowly start a crescent shaped cut into the glass hull and at the same time slowly orient the drill and cutter parallel to the hull. The result will be a 3/4" hole 1/4" higher at the top of the hole than the original. It goes as smooth as glass (ooh my puns) and takes mere seconds to cut. Of course the same holds true for any sized hole but the engine intake is probably the most common done. Keep cool this weekend, I know it's darned hot here in SoCal, 81 degrees at 2100. Glyn Judson, E31 hull #55, Marina del Rey, CA
ThruBolt the way to GO !
The WEAK Point in ALL of our original pipe-nut type ThruHulls was where the nut tightened to the hull. At that location all you have is the pipe to keep your ThruHull from breaking off due to corrosion or stress.
REAL SeaCocks have a backing flange with ThruBolts to attach to the hull and distribute the stress to the hull NOT the pipe :nerd:
As you choose NOT to thrubolt your SeaCock you are STILL putting most of the stress on the pipe as in the original type ThruHulls
The thrubolts are there for a reason.....use them as intended by the MFG. Attaching a piece of plywood donut to the hull with epoxy and lagging the SeaCock flange to the backer is not a structural substitute for a thrubolt.
Happy Seacock
The WEAK Point in ALL of our original pipe-nut type ThruHulls was where the nut tightened to the hull. At that location all you have is the pipe to keep your ThruHull from breaking off due to corrosion or stress.
REAL SeaCocks have a backing flange with ThruBolts to attach to the hull and distribute the stress to the hull NOT the pipe :nerd:
As you choose NOT to thrubolt your SeaCock you are STILL putting most of the stress on the pipe as in the original type ThruHulls
The thrubolts are there for a reason.....use them as intended by the MFG. Attaching a piece of plywood donut to the hull with epoxy and lagging the SeaCock flange to the backer is not a structural substitute for a thrubolt.
Happy Seacock