Shifter and Throttle Cables

Jimmyvix

Member II
Hi all, wishing you a wonderful Holiday Season! I have an Edson (or at least Edson-style) pedestal. Does anyone know what the length of the throttle and transmission cables need to be? The tranny cable is no good so I'm replacing both. I have a 28+. Thanks in advance!
 

Loren Beach

O34 - Portland, OR
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
I would suggest using the Search command, upper right on the screen. Try 'control cable' or 'shift cable'. There are threads regarding a number of different EY models, but the only real determining factor will be the length of the existing cables. For ours, I did chicken out and have a mechanic replace them -- but later when cleaning up the installation I was able to smooth out some of the radius curves to reduce potential friction. I hope a sister ship owner can chime in with particulars.
Happy Holidays,
Loren

ps: I did slightly change the thread title to make searching a bit easier. I hope you do not mind.
 
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Jimmyvix

Member II
I would suggest using the Search command, upper right on the screen. Try 'control cable' or 'shift cable'. There are threads regarding a number of different EY models, but the only real determining factor will be the length of the existing cables. For ours, I did chicken out and have a mechanic replace them -- but later when cleaning up the installation I was able to smooth out some of the radius curves to reduce potential friction. I hope a sister ship owner can chime in with particulars.
Happy Holidays,
Loren
Thank you!
 

Christian Williams

E381 - Los Angeles
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
Many of us measure existing cables. (Often, with these old boats, they have been replaced prior with an incorrect length). But at least you can see how they lie. The cables should avoid sharp bends. They can be over-long, in order to provide a gentle bend. All that matters is that they fit comfortably in the space, and "go around" any obstacles without issue (or sharp bends).

Measuring before ordering also identifies issues with the connections, which rely on specific means of holding the cable jacket so that the internal wire can move inside the fixed jacket. Fittings can be rusted or misaligned, which is evident to up-close eyeballs.
 

Phr3d

Member III
Loren and Christian are right about the radius on the bends - do look carefully at what is there to see if it is what should be there...

I replaced the cables (E34-2) with what was printed on them. It did take removing them to find the numbers.

Make sure to use some sort of messenger line when you do take them out.

Night and day difference with SeaStar Teleflex Xtreme 3300

 

u079721

Contributing Partner
And speaking of radius bends...here is my thread from some years ago in which the gear shift cable on my 38 snapped from being in way too tight a bend. So don't assume the factory installation was correct! Also, one of my original cables was at least two feet longer than it needed to be, so do take a careful look at the layout to see if you have the opportunity to run the cable more efficiently with fewer bends.

 

windblown

Member III
Blogs Author
Since replacing my throttle cable, the throttle doesn’t hold where I put it in forward if I let go of the lever; it slowly drifts back toward neutral. I’ve tried tightening the clamp on the cable shield near engine, and that seemed to help, but not solve the problem. Where should I be making the adjustment?
 

Pete the Cat

Sustaining Member
Since replacing my throttle cable, the throttle doesn’t hold where I put it in forward if I let go of the lever; it slowly drifts back toward neutral. I’ve tried tightening the clamp on the cable shield near engine, and that seemed to help, but not solve the problem. Where should I be making the adjustment?
Not sure what "cable clamp" you are tightening. Yanmar makes a cable clamp for adjusting the friction in the throttle Morse cable. Costs about $20 and you install it generally as close to the throttle lever as possble (generally at the base of the pedestal). You can get something that looks very much like it and will pinch the cable fine for a couple bucks at Home Depot--i have seen them but do not recall what they are really for. FWIW.
 

windblown

Member III
Blogs Author
Not sure what "cable clamp" you are tightening. Yanmar makes a cable clamp for adjusting the friction in the throttle Morse cable. Costs about $20 and you install it generally as close to the throttle lever as possble (generally at the base of the pedestal). You can get something that looks very much like it and will pinch the cable fine for a couple bucks at Home Depot--i have seen them but do not recall what they are really for. FWIW.
The cable clamp I’ve tried tightening is a brass fitting that I took off the old Morse cable when I replaced it. Not quite knowing what it was for, I simply moved it from the old cable to the new, putting it in basically the same location on the new cable, which is about a foot aft of where the throttle cable attaches to the engine. I’ll try to get a picture next time I’m at the boat, for posterity. I haven’t wanted overtighten the old clamp and risk damaging the new cable jacket, but it sounds like may be the adjustment I need, rather than some fine tuning at the pedestal?
 

Pete the Cat

Sustaining Member
The cable clamp I’ve tried tightening is a brass fitting that I took off the old Morse cable when I replaced it. Not quite knowing what it was for, I simply moved it from the old cable to the new, putting it in basically the same location on the new cable, which is about a foot aft of where the throttle cable attaches to the engine. I’ll try to get a picture next time I’m at the boat, for posterity. I haven’t wanted overtighten the old clamp and risk damaging the new cable jacket, but it sounds like may be the adjustment I need, rather than some fine tuning at the pedestal?
I would have to see it to tell if it is the kind of clamp that is used for that purpose. Sounds like it is. I know mechanics often put these where they are convenient (like near the motor) rather than closer to the throttle lever (which can be a PIA, but is recommended) and it seems to work OK there--I have never seen a failure due to location. Does often take a few adjustments to get it right--enough, but not too much, friction.
 

Kenneth K

1985 32-3, Puget Sound
Blogs Author
Mine has this for a cable clamp:
sp.jpg

It's called a split bolt, and is sold in the electrical section of most hardware stores for about $7-$8, (link). They're meant for clamping large ground wires together in electrical applications.

I haven’t wanted overtighten the old clamp and risk damaging the new cable jacket, but it sounds like may be the adjustment I need, rather than some fine tuning at the pedestal?
It has to be tightened enough that it starts to compress the jacket around the cable. Mine is located a few inches from the engine, where it is easy to adjust. There is typically nothing in the pedestal that allow for cable friction adjustment.
 
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peaman

Contributing Partner
Mine has this for a cable clamp:
View attachment 54396

It's called a split bolt, and is sold in the electrical section of most hardware stores for about $7-$8, (link). They're meant for clamping large ground wires together in electrical applications.


It has to be tightened enough that it starts to compress the jacket around the cable. Mine is located a few inches from the engine, where it is easy to adjust. There is typically nothing in the pedestal that allow for cable friction adjustment.
This is a really good way to go, as besides being inexpensive and fairly easy to source, it is also easier than some to adjust "just right" and it will not rust.
 

Pete the Cat

Sustaining Member
Mine has this for a cable clamp:
View attachment 54396

It's called a split bolt, and is sold in the electrical section of most hardware stores for about $7-$8, (link). They're meant for clamping large ground wires together in electrical applications.


It has to be tightened enough that it starts to compress the jacket around the cable. Mine is located a few inches from the engine, where it is easy to adjust. There is typically nothing in the pedestal that allow for cable friction adjustment.
I agree that there is nothing in the pedestal to adjust, but Edson recommends putting the clamp at the pedestal base. I am not sure it makes a big difference. I have put clamps in both places and never had a problem in thousands of hours.
 

Dave G.

1984 E30+ (SOLD)
Is it the throttle or gear shift cable ? You mention that it "I put it in forward and it drifts back to neutral" Which part of the cable is "drifting". Is the outer sleeve sliding through the clamps ? Or is the core cable moving inside the sleeve ? If it's the outer you need to get more torque on the clamp(s). If it's the inner and it's the throttle cable check spring tension at throttle lever on the engine.
 

windblown

Member III
Blogs Author
Mine has this for a cable clamp:
View attachment 54396

It's called a split bolt, and is sold in the electrical section of most hardware stores for about $7-$8, (link). They're meant for clamping large ground wires together in electrical applications.


It has to be tightened enough that it starts to compress the jacket around the cable. Mine is located a few inches from the engine, where it is easy to adjust. There is typically nothing in the pedestal that allow for cable friction adjustment.
Yes, this is the clamp I have.
 

windblown

Member III
Blogs Author
Is it the throttle or gear shift cable ? You mention that it "I put it in forward and it drifts back to neutral" Which part of the cable is "drifting". Is the outer sleeve sliding through the clamps ? Or is the core cable moving inside the sleeve ? If it's the outer you need to get more torque on the clamp(s). If it's the inner and it's the throttle cable check spring tension at throttle lever on the engine.
Thanks, Dave. It is the throttle; my description was incorrect. I increase the throttle, and it eases back off when I let go of the lever. I’ll check the spring tension.
 

Christian Williams

E381 - Los Angeles
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
it eases back off when I let go of the lever

A split bolt or similar, as mentioned above, ought to solve that. It just crushes the cable jacket to provide resistance. Crude, but standard.
 
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