Spotless Stainless

mherrcat

Contributing Partner
Never heard of it, but the examples on their website look pretty good so I am ordering some.

I have cleaned my stainless before with Wichinox which claims to "re-passivate" the stainless and promote reformation of the oxide layer. It comes in a plastic tube like toothpaste. Seems like the Spotless Stainless product might be a little easier to use.

I wonder if cleaning with the Spotless Stainless and then applying the Wichinox would be twice as effective?

NOTE:

Just noticed in ordering that there is a coupon code for 10% off. Click on the "Buy" button in the menu bar and look at the bottom of the page. This can even be applied to their 2-Quart and 4-Quart bundles that are already discounted 10% and 15% and include free shipping. This additional discount expires July 6.
 
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Bill Upchurch

Member II
The examples shown on their website were impressive. I just bought a pint and I'll let you know how it works.
Thanks for the lead.
Bill
 

mherrcat

Contributing Partner
Ooops, had to delete the reply from Spotless Stainless. They didn't want to appear to be negative toward a competitor; which it didn't seem like they were, just pointing out some differences.

Sorry...
 
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mherrcat

Contributing Partner
Just received my order of Spotless Stainless today and tried it out on my swim ladder that's been sitting in my garage.

Seems to work well. They say it is formulated to work at room temperature or above; higher temps make it work faster/better. They also say that it should be left on for 30 minutes and kept wet during that time. Well, the only drawback to that is, when it is 105 degrees it tends to dry out pretty quickly. I ended up rinsing it off at 20 minutes because I didn't want to keep applying it and using it all up on a swim ladder.

Here are some before and after pics. Granted the rust stains on the ladder weren't all that bad, but you can see what it did.
 

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Sven

Seglare
Odd spontaneous questions about Spotless Stainless

Seems like every boating forum I'm on gets posts titled Spotless Stainless.

After a few posts someone will mention that Bartenders Helper works great.

Just odd. I suppose someone will now ask me to substantiate that observation :egrin:



-Sven
 

TRMN8R

Member II
I've been curious about this stuff too and I'll try it. I use Wrights Brass Polish which works really well on 33 year old SS for now.
 

Maine Sail

Member III
Guys,

There are only two acids that meet the re-passivating classification for SS and those are citric and nitric acids. You can't easily get nitric and Spotless Stainless is citric. I use it and it works really well
. I have tried many acids on stainless but they then rust faster and more potent acids leave a dull finish that then requires polishing.

The stuff works quite well though is a tad slow and on some older stuff and may require two applications.

Some things I have learned about it.

Do not use in direct sun
Do use it on a warm humid evening so evaporation is kept down
It won't work well in cooler temps
Work on the shaded side of the boat if working during sun up hours
Don't stand their watching it


Here are the ACTUAL photos of Spotless Stainless working.

Temp 68F, humidity 63%, set time 1:20 minutes, only because I got side tracked. I can't accurately comment on how long it actually took to get that clean. This was a 25 year old Wichard snap shackle that I have had on a number of halyards. The surface is pitted from time and exposure, and the Spotless Stainless won't fix pitting, but it did and does remove the rust very well even if a little slow. In higher temps and humidity it does seem to work faster. Below 70 degrees it seems to begin to slow down.

It is what it is:

Before:
125936856.jpg


During:
125936857.jpg


After Rinsing:
125936858.jpg



Not bad for doing nothing but brushing it on, letting it sit and rinsing it.

I do find it a tad expensive but don't doubt the price will come down when volume eventually goes up.
When the boat was on the mooring and after a sail I busted out the SS and a chip brush. Worked up near the bow. While waiting I got some paperwork done then went back and rinsed it off. Overall really, really easy. The ability to clean stainless while I am doing other work is really quite nice..

For rinsing it I used a bucket of water and a wet microfiber rag. I did not feel like going into the dock to rinse down or to get out out my on-board hose. Rinsed off fine..

I also tested a spot where I waxed over some rust purposely. It does not work very well unless the stainless is unprotected and may take considerably more time or perhaps not work at all depending upon how thick the wax coating is.

These pics were all taken 6/23/10..

Before:
125947498.jpg


During:
125947499.jpg


After:
125947500.jpg


These pics were all taken yesterday 6/23/10..

125947503.jpg


125947501.jpg


Temps were 78F with about 84% RH and it worked in about 30 min. It was however direct sun so I had to keep it wet. I discovered that you can cover it with a dampened and wrung out microfiber rag and it keeps it wet longer.

Keep it wet and use in warm temps and the stuff really works and leaves a very nice shiny surface.

For experimentation's sake I tried it on a seacock. I also used a Mr. Clean Magic Eraser with the Spotless Stainless. This took a long time, a lot longer then the stainless, but the results were great when it finally had enough time to do its work. Getting through the verdigris took a while but this is right next to my nav station where I was working so it was easy to keep an eye on the progress..

I don't advise using the product in this manner, not its intended use, but I did do it.

125947504.jpg

125947505.jpg
 

mherrcat

Contributing Partner
The ability to get into crevices and threads is attractive. I noted the indication of citric acid on the label as well; was not aware that it was used for this purpose. When I used it yesterday and it was drying out in the heat I wondered if maybe misting it lightly with water would help keep it wet without prematurely washing it off; would be easier than trying to keep a stanchion completely covered with a towel.


Aside: That looks like Rectorseal on the seacock between the 90-degree fitting and the valve. Just curious because I have been using it on my water pump fittings, heat exchanger fittings and fuel tank fittings and didn't really know if it was the best thing to use. Most of the fittings are tapered but I used it anyway; haven't had any problems...
 

Maine Sail

Member III
Aside: That looks like Rectorseal on the seacock between the 90-degree fitting and the valve. Just curious because I have been using it on my water pump fittings, heat exchanger fittings and fuel tank fittings and didn't really know if it was the best thing to use. Most of the fittings are tapered but I used it anyway; haven't had any problems...

It's not Rectorseal. I use yellow gas type teflon tape or US Mil Spec teflon and Hercules Real-Tuff pipe dope which is a teflon based dope. I use both tape and dope together..
 
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