Stainless polishing

[K2MSmith]

I managed to get most of the rust spots off my stainless deck hardware ( from 1982 ) . It looks ok , but kind of cloudy . Is it possible to restore the finish and make it more mirror like ? What product to use ? It’s not a huge priority on my list but maybe I’ll do one post at a time over the next year ..I’ve been looking at the chrome on my Triumph.. lol

 

[gabriel]

My wife had this around the house for our appliances and it works pretty well.

Robot or human?

I also liked west marine’s stainless cleaner.

 

[K2MSmith]

I think the stainless actually needs more polishing than cleaning. Maybe some car polish ? , something that has a fine abrasive in it .

 

[K2MSmith]

Interesting..olive oil ?

How To: Polish Stainless Steel

Stainless steel is a popular choice for sinks, appliances, mixing bowls, and more. However, it requires a bit of work to keep it looking new, here's how to polish stainless steel.

www.bobvila.com

 

[dt222]

Well if you want something with abrasive in it from the automotive area, polishing compound (slight abrasive) and rubbing compound (more) might work. I have had good luck with Barkeepers Friend Cleanser.

 

[gabriel]

Search results for: '140 g stainless steel polishing compound 1 lb'

www.pjtool.com

or like said above, automotive rubbing compound.

Prob the most important thing is having the right bench top buffer and wheels, if you want that mirror finish.

 

[Rocinante33]

Well if you want something with abrasive in it from the automotive area, polishing compound (slight abrasive) and rubbing compound (more) might work. I have had good luck with Barkeepers Friend Cleanser.

Another vote for Barkeeper's Friend. It has just a bit of abrasive and a bit of oxalic acid which work wonders together and its cheap!

Then it must be waxed afterwards.

 

[peaman]

Unless it is bad enough to need wet-sanding, Flitz is the right answer for stainless or brass/bronze. It is a very fine abrasive with (apparently) some pretty great protective properties that keep the item looking good for longer than any other products I have used. I was introduced to it when I worked as crew on luxury yachts twenty years ago and have used it since. It can seem pricey, but used sparingly, it will polish to a high lustre and will last a really long time before needed again. No after-waxing needed.

For the Triumph, Flitz will darken the aluminum a bit, but the lustre will offset that. I've used it on my Sportster and it looks great.

 

[K2MSmith]

Unless it is bad enough to need wet-sanding, Flitz is the right answer for stainless or brass/bronze. It is a very fine abrasive with (apparently) some pretty great protective properties that keep the item looking good for longer than any other products I have used. I was introduced to it when I worked as crew on luxury yachts twenty years ago and have used it since. It can seem pricey, but used sparingly, it will polish to a high lustre and will last a really long time before needed again. No after-waxing needed.

For the Triumph, Flitz will darken the aluminum a bit, but the lustre will offset that. I've used it on my Sportster and it looks great.

That a great endorsement. I’ll give it a try ( after the olive oil ) . Btw, there is a new sportster coming out . I want to see one in the real .

 

[peaman]

Btw, there is a new sportster coming out .

New? I like my bikes like I like my boats: Older classics. 1980 Ironhead Sportster 1000
(Actually, the bike was inherited from my brother, whose name inspired my boat's name.)

 

[goldenstate]

I thought @Loren Beach was the resident stainless polishing expert.

I know he used a pneumatic polishing wheel on his handrails.

O34 - Deck & handrails, Casting Procedure(page 2)

The new SS hand rails are ready and have been trial fitted and they do indeed match the existing hole spacing. Cost totaled up more than new teak ones, but not a lot. Our host sourced the polished 316 oval tubing. He also cut the pieces -- sloped...

ericsonyachts.org

I have been underwhelmed by several products I have tried, so let me know if you come up with a good solution.

 

[Loren Beach]

Ha.
Oh My-- I am only a duffer!

Some trivia I had to learn about SS polishing...
The "polishing" part can take several types/colors of waxy blocks. You spin some onto the wheel, and then polish the SS surface.
What I had to learn was that a lot of boat parts come from the vendors with a "mill finish" and this has to be ground totally smooth before a mirror finish can be established.
This required sanding. My (unreliable) memory is that we used a lot of peel-n-stick paper with 350, then 800, then 1500. I believe that 3000 grit was involved also. if you have any unevenness in the surface, you have to get it down to flat. This was with a good quality DA sander, hooked up to a vac system.
Nothing extremely technical, but it takes persistence.
The shop used only the white polish waxy block, relying on the sanding discs to bring the surface up to a dull 'shine'.
I note that there are U-Tube videos showing this, as well.

The dust from this work makes a tyvek bunny suit a real good idea. Wear protective glasses, and a dust mask is also a good idea. Ear protection, too.
Just tell yourself that every hour you perform this labor, you are putting $100. back into your pocket....