Thru-Hull ?

[Tegski]

The head portlight extrusion is exactly the same as the non-opening port extrusions - they just put the two pieces of glass in different grooves, left one piece un-caulked so it moves, and added some shims to make it work. I suspect that there was some kind of wiper gasket, like from a car roll-up window, glued in there that didn't last long. I couldn't see any good way to make it work without leaking - when I re-glazed, I put a solid piece of glass in there. The long term solution is to replace the whole thing with a conventional opening port that dogs closed.

But then that one port looks different, so the OCD among us must do ALL the ports that way... it's a slippery slope.

Yes, OCD is a thing. And I particularly like having an many original pieces as I can. I think the rain guard will help cut down a fraction of a percent of intrusion. Probably not and I will end up hating the way it looks. I have to rebed a salon portlight soon, and I am assuming ill crack the glass when I do it so I may be replacing them all soon anyway.

Nothing on an old boat has an end, just a comfortable temporary stopping point.

 

[frick]

I replaced all my gate valves on my e29. It was job and half. I purchased all my parts from Defender Marine. The old Ericsons used some sizes that are not longer made so be prepared. I think it took me about 2 hours for each, plus 5 hours for the 2 head fittings that required diving head first in the starboard bench and reaching as far as I could to get to the gate valves.

 

[toddster]

I wrestled with one of them for a whole day. A pipe wrench big enough to do the job could not be deployed in the space available. (Installed before the liner, maybe?) Finally in a flash of inspiration, I found a wheel bearing socket that would fit, my biggest ratchet, and an extension handle, and had it out in five minutes. Funny how it takes hours of frustration for my brain to kick in and see the easy way.

 

[frick]

I used a large channel locks to grab the through the hull, and a large monkey wrench on the valve.
I also put a pencil line on the outside of the hull to see if my bronze through the hull moved.
on the older ericson, none of the through the hulls were bonded / grounded. this often means no electrolisis.
rick

 

[tpcorrigan]

Hi! Just picked up a 1978 E29 on the southern gulf coast of Florida.

Seems to be in relatively well cared for condition, excluding a few of the PO's wiring choices.

I need to replace the seacock and thru hull for the head sink, and also a seacock for the water intake for the A4. Does anyone know off the top of their head what size these are and if they were even a standard size? I've never had to replace thru hulls and I'm attempting to order them in before the boat goes on the hard so I dont have to pay for additional time.

Budget is key since my business is shut down at the moment, otherwise I'd not worry about timing.

Ball valve for head intake and the A4 intake on E27 is standard 1/2" and is $21.00 at WM. I just replaced mine. I did not have to replace the actual through hull so maybe you can just replace the valve. That is all I had to do. The actual through hull fitting was solid as can be. E27 and E29 are very similar boats and much, not all, of the ancillary items are the same.

Good Luck TPCorrigan

P.S. I hope your A4 intake is in a better place than our E27. You need gorilla length arms to reach. One day I'll move the actual through hull location so I only need tyrannosaurus length arms.

 

[Tegski]

Ball valve for head intake and the A4 intake on E27 is standard 1/2" and is $21.00 at WM. I just replaced mine. I did not have to replace the actual through hull so maybe you can just replace the valve. That is all I had to do. The actual through hull fitting was solid as can be. E27 and E29 are very similar boats and much, not all, of the ancillary items are the same.

Good Luck TPCorrigan

P.S. I hope your A4 intake is in a better place than our E27. You need gorilla length arms to reach. One day I'll move the actual through hull location so I only need tyrannosaurus length arms.

I'm not 100% sure, but I believe mine is just below my galley sink. Which is not majorly accessible, but I think ill be able to get in there. I'm a skinny guy so I have high hopes for that helping.

Thank you for the info! I was pretty sure they are 1/2inch but wanted extra advice. She is still sitting in the water waiting for the marina to haul, so im still in research phase.

Found no access to my starboard fixtures yet, but imaking decisions on that later. Priority 1 is thru-hull, priority 2 is bottom job, and 3 is making her safer for soloing. I dont think ill be solo for a while but always better to have it set that way for a 2 man crew.

Would anyone know, if you add a stanchion, does it supply more strength to the safety lines? While I have no faith in them generally, theyve been handy to hoist myself up while at dock and id like to make them more solid to continue that usage. Jack-lines are also going on for the crew.

 

[toddster]

Would anyone know, if you add a stanchion, does it supply more strength to the safety lines? While I have no faith in them generally, theyve been handy to hoist myself up while at dock and id like to make them more solid to continue that usage. Jack-lines are also going on for the crew.

Probably minimal. Adding bracing to the stanchions might be better. I'm vaguely planning to make solid rail all around the cockpit and adding a smaller gate somewhere amidship with parts from Garhauer (unless I find a great deal on used gate stanchions.)
I always pull myself up by the shrouds - not the lifeline, and that's one of the bullets in my new crew briefing. Likewise, pull the boat along the dock by the shrouds - never the stanchions.

 

[Tegski]

Soon turns out the thru hull for the head sink drain is a 3/4". I ordered the wrong ones from defender. Would it be so bad to use the 1/2 inch instead of getting a new 3/4"?

While we are on it, I took a wrench and did something between a tap and a light banging on the seacock for that thruhull, it broke into pieces like soft ceramic and was rose colored all the way through. I'm glad I didn't touch it until we got hauled.

 

[Loren Beach]

Probably minimal. Adding bracing to the stanchions might be better. I'm vaguely planning to make solid rail all around the cockpit and adding a smaller gate somewhere amidship with parts from Garhauer (unless I find a great deal on used gate stanchions.)
I always pull myself up by the shrouds - not the lifeline, and that's one of the bullets in my new crew briefing. Likewise, pull the boat along the dock by the shrouds - never the stanchions.

FWIW, we still consider our stanchion bracing, especially the double brace on the gate stanchion, one of the best upgrades, ever. Pix in several replies.

Stanchion Bracing

A nearby Thread is discussing SS stern rails and dinghy davits and the subject of custom SS work crept in, and rather than subvert that thread any further... It seemed best to start a new one on custom SS work, like a "fix" for bent stanchions. Personal Rant: It has bothered me for years that...

ericsonyachts.org

 

[Tegski]

FWIW, we still consider our stanchion bracing, especially the double brace on the gate stanchion, one of the best upgrades, ever. Pix in several replies.

Stanchion Bracing

A nearby Thread is discussing SS stern rails and dinghy davits and the subject of custom SS work crept in, and rather than subvert that thread any further... It seemed best to start a new one on custom SS work, like a "fix" for bent stanchions. Personal Rant: It has bothered me for years that...

ericsonyachts.org

I would love that toe rail. Mine is a 1" track for the genoa blocks and a few mid ship cleats.