Thru Hulls: Seacock bolted through the hull or ball valve??

[bigd14]

I will be replacing all thru hulls and valves next haulout. Has anyone used the Forespar Pro series? Looks like an easier install than the flanged seacock or adapters and meets ABYC strength standards.

 

[Frank Langer]

Have you considered the Tru Design thru hulls, made in New Zealand, but quite widely avaliable. I prefer them over all others, have had them on my boat for several years.
Frank

 

[bigd14]

Thanks Frank. The Tru Design looks like a great option and 30% cheaper than the Forespar. Did you use the collars?

 

[Frank Langer]

Thanks Frank. The Tru Design looks like a great option and 30% cheaper than the Forespar. Did you use the collars?

Yes the collars came with the thru hulls and are a good protection. I highly recommend them.
Frank

 

[bigd14]

One more question about the Tru-Design. The current thru hulls have a plywood backing block which I intend to remove before replacing them. Does the Tru-Design require (or benefit from) a new backing block or could they just fit directly against the hull?

Most of the handles are nearly impossible to turn, and you can see why I want to replace these…

 

[Loren Beach]

The current thru hulls have a plywood backing block which I intend to remove

I would guess that once the old valves are out, you can knock the old plywood backer-bits off with a chisel, and then replace them with G10, set in some epoxy mush. Rough the hull surface up with 80 or 60 grit, and clean with acetone, of course.
I wonder if EY used 5200 to bed in those old plates? -- ya might need a bigger hammer with that chisel...!

 

[Frank Langer]

One more question about the Tru-Design. The current thru hulls have a plywood backing block which I intend to remove before replacing them. Does the Tru-Design require (or benefit from) a new backing block or could they just fit directly against the hull?

Most of the handles are nearly impossible to turn, and you can see why I want to replace these…

View attachment 55069

View attachment 55068

Doug,
The Tru Design thru hulls do not need a backing plate. Frank

 

[bigd14]

I am not looking forward to removing those plates, I am sure it’s 5200, ugh. But fantastic news about the Tru Design. Should be a significantly easier install than my 30+ backer plates and bronze adapters. I have 7 of them. Thanks Frank!

 

[Frank Langer]

I am not looking forward to removing those plates, I am sure it’s 5200, ugh. But fantastic news about the Tru Design. Should be a significantly easier install than my 30+ backer plates and bronze adapters. I have 7 of them. Thanks Frank!

Doug,
Mine were installed about four years ago. I don't know if the design and manufacture of these thru hulls has changed in any way. The company was easy to communicate with, and they had a good web page, so you can get up to date information and instructions.
Frank

 

[bigd14]

Doug,
Mine were installed about four years ago. I don't know if the design and manufacture of these thru hulls has changed in any way. The company was easy to communicate with, and they had a good web page, so you can get up to date information and instructions.
Frank

Thank you Frank. More question keep coming up. Did you use the flush version of the thru hull? If so did it fit the original flush mount hole? I suspect 5200 was used to bed the existing flush mount thru hulls on my 34 which may require destructive removal. I used mushroom fittings on the 30+ to replace the old flush mounts and tolerated the space left where the flush mount cap was which was filled with sealant. Debating now which way to go on the 34.

 

[Frank Langer]

Thank you Frank. More question keep coming up. Did you use the flush version of the thru hull? If so did it fit the original flush mount hole? I suspect 5200 was used to bed the existing flush mount thru hulls on my 34 which may require destructive removal. I used mushroom fittings on the 30+ to replace the old flush mounts and tolerated the space left where the flush mount cap was which was filled with sealant. Debating now which way to go on the 34.

I have the mushroom type, not flush. All my previous ones were also mushroom, so it was easier to use those.
Frank

 

[bigd14]

For sure easier replacing mushrooms in kind. I was hoping to avoid epoxy work to repair the thru hull openings but it looks to be unavoidable. I guess the best approach would be to drill out the flush thru hulls with a hole saw, hog out the 5200 in the recessed area, install some G10 backing plates on the inside, fill in the gaps with thickened epoxy then redrill the whole thing. Times seven.