Bilge Pump Wiring

Eric Gordon

1975 E27 - Sea Star, Yanmar 3GM30F Dana Point, Ca.
I am installing a new bilge pump and at the same time rewiring it directly to the battery. I want to make sure I’m doing it right.

Quite honestly, even after reading all the posts here, I’m still a wee bit confused about the electronics of it all….(I should have paid a LOT more attention in Electric Shop at Junior High School).

diagram.jpg
 

Pete the Cat

Sustaining Member
No. That is not right. The fuse will blow. Do you have a 3 wire bilge pump? (one that works on manual and automatic?). That would determine the wiring.
 

Eric Gordon

1975 E27 - Sea Star, Yanmar 3GM30F Dana Point, Ca.
I was going to order the Rule 1100 Standard Bilge Pump from Defender….

I should probably do a little more digging to find the electric specs/diagram for it and then get back here.

The current pump, keeps blowing the fuse after working (for the six years, I've had the boat) just fine. As part of this, I thought it prodent to replace all the wiring and wire direct to the battery so that the pump will function regardless of where my master switch is.

I also have a On/Off/Auto switch already in place.
 

Loren Beach

O34 - Portland, OR
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
If you feel like you just gotta wire anything directly to your battery, Blue Seas makes a well engineered terminal that meets all current safety rules. I use it for voltage sensing wires and one other circuit that needed to avoid the main panel.

Further... if you have not yet bought a certrifugal pump please do consider a more-reliable diaphram Jabsco pump.
 

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Eric Gordon

1975 E27 - Sea Star, Yanmar 3GM30F Dana Point, Ca.
If you feel like you just gotta wire anything directly to your battery, Blue Seas makes a well engineered terminal that meets all current safety rules. I use it for voltage sensing wires and one other circuit that needed to avoid the main panel.

Further... if you have not yet bought a certrifugal pump please do consider a more-reliable diaphram Jabsco pump.
I’m going with this pump and the fuse system. FYI, my E27 bilge is much deeper than those of you with bigger boats, so I will continue to let the pump remain in the upper part of the bilge area (marked with an X in the circle showing the deeper part of the bilge).
 

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Eric Gordon

1975 E27 - Sea Star, Yanmar 3GM30F Dana Point, Ca.
Since you're in there, here's my think-through on bilge pumps.


Thanks!
That article/blog post is just one of a plethora of reasons this forum is so valuable! And I like the idea of the filters too.[/url]
 
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Frank Langer

1984 Ericson 30+, Nanaimo, BC
The fuse for my bilge pump tends to blow if I haven't run it for a while and the rubber impellor gets stuck. The solution
is to sand the edges of the impellor a bit so it doesn't fit so tightly , and to run it briefly more often.
Frank
 

Kenneth K

1985 32-3, Puget Sound
Blogs Author
I was going to order the Rule 1100 Standard Bilge Pump from Defender….
The Rule 1100 says it uses a 1" or 1-1/8" hose size. Most Ericson bilge hoses are 3/4," except for the manual Whale Gusher which is 1-1/2.". Unless you have a 1" to 1-1/8" discharge hose, you're probably better off getting a Rule 800. Otherwise, you're just using more power to push water through a constricted hose, and likely not getting much more flow. Also, it's good that you're using a separate float switch. The Rule "automatic" pumps with a built-in switch are a poor design.

The fuse for my bilge pump tends to blow if I haven't run it for a while and the rubber impellor gets stuck. The solution
is to sand the edges of the impellor a bit so it doesn't fit so tightly , and to run it briefly more often.
I think the type of pump Frank is talking about, with a tight-fitting rubber impeller, is different from the basic Rule centrifugal pumps. The Rules have more of a fixed "fan blade" that doesn't contact any of the surrounding pump case, so there is really nothing in the pump that can get "stuck."
 
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Eric Gordon

1975 E27 - Sea Star, Yanmar 3GM30F Dana Point, Ca.
Well, I’m at the boat now uninstalling the old rule 2000 bilge pump… And checking where the wires are going…

The pump is/was situated just at the top of the sump (bilge)

as you can see from the photo the pump is beyond it’s useful life, which is probably why it kept burning fuses whenever I tried to run it… I also know, after reading all of your comments and replies that this pump was never going to pump any water because the water never reached that level… Thus was never triggered. So, anytime I manually activated the pump, it was just sucking air.

This is my first time posting photos from my phone at the boat so you’ll forgive me if they don’t rotate properly. IMG_4388.jpeg
 

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Eric Gordon

1975 E27 - Sea Star, Yanmar 3GM30F Dana Point, Ca.
I took a trip to Minney’s and they have several excellent condition JABSCO diaphragm bilge pumps… You know the old kind with the belts… There’s even one that comes with a repair kit w/all of the rubber needed… And it’s only $115. Thoughts?
 

peaman

Sustaining Member
I took a trip to Minney’s and they have several excellent condition JABSCO diaphragm bilge pumps… You know the old kind with the belts… There’s even one that comes with a repair kit w/all of the rubber needed… And it’s only $115. Thoughts?
A functional Jabsco diaphragm pump for $115 is a good deal. Disassemble the pump end and check that the check valves are flexible, not cracked, and no corrosion or damage on the seats. Make sure diaphragm is likewise in good condition. Lube the mechanical bits if possible and put it to work.
 

Christian Williams

E381 - Los Angeles
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
For comparison, here's the updated version of my Jabsco diaphragm pump for $292:

 
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