p.gazibara
Member III
IMO anything shiny is meant to look good at the dock. Just end for end the chain every couple years and get any twists out. We have never used a swivel and never had any issues.
-p
Guest viewing is limited
- You have a limited number of page views remaining
- 27 guest views remaining
- Register now to remove this limitation
Anchor poll
- Thread starter gareth harris
- Start date
-p
Ouch! ... some of us will have to start wearing hats...
Solarken
Member III
Hahahahahaha. Before I found a good swivel, I had to hang the anchor out in deep water and let it settle the spin out before retrieving, about every two weeks. I use a double bending swivel now that is rated for well over the boats dry weight and near double of the HT chain rating. Now I almost never see chain twists. Even if anchored for several days of spinning in circles on hook ⚓️
I have been using the Anchorlift "anchor turner kit" for several years, with my steel anchors. It's supposed to automatically turn the anchor to park correctly on the roller without user intervention. Works... most of the time. And I have spent many, many nights in reversing wind and current situations. I hope I didn't already post that earlier in the thread somewhere...
However, my aluminum Fortress anchor also came to me with a swivel. I recently had to yank it off the bottom, in the course of trying to escape a storm on a lee shore. (The Rocna was out of action - a long story.) This was the result:
(The stock, slightly out of frame, is also twisted) IDK, that might have happened without the swivel anyway, but it's not a good look. Anyhow, no more swivels on aluminum anchors for me. Or only the kind that rides a few links up the chain.
BTW, I wouldn't have even tried that maneuver with the Atomic 4 powered Ericson. It was a close thing with the 47 HP Yanmar turbo diesel at WOT. I.E. pretty stupid to have done it.
Replacement parts are available for the Fortress, but the cost is almost as much as a new anchor. I might just cut off the bent part and drill a new hole. Anyhow, after that, I splurged and now carry three different anchors:
Rocna on the bow.
Lemar Claw on the stern.
Brand new Fortress, disassembled, in storage bag in the hold, as backup.
Oh, and that bent thing, which I'll likely trade away or bring back to the storage shed at the next opportunity. Or I could carry four...
Notably, the Fortress costs more than twice as much as the Lewmar Claw. The Rocna costs twice as much as the Fortress. That may roughly approximate my level of confidence in them.
Oh, FWIW, the E29 is reversed: It has the Claw on the bow and a (steel) Danforth on the stern.
However, my aluminum Fortress anchor also came to me with a swivel. I recently had to yank it off the bottom, in the course of trying to escape a storm on a lee shore. (The Rocna was out of action - a long story.) This was the result:
(The stock, slightly out of frame, is also twisted) IDK, that might have happened without the swivel anyway, but it's not a good look. Anyhow, no more swivels on aluminum anchors for me. Or only the kind that rides a few links up the chain.
BTW, I wouldn't have even tried that maneuver with the Atomic 4 powered Ericson. It was a close thing with the 47 HP Yanmar turbo diesel at WOT. I.E. pretty stupid to have done it.
Replacement parts are available for the Fortress, but the cost is almost as much as a new anchor. I might just cut off the bent part and drill a new hole. Anyhow, after that, I splurged and now carry three different anchors:
Rocna on the bow.
Lemar Claw on the stern.
Brand new Fortress, disassembled, in storage bag in the hold, as backup.
Oh, and that bent thing, which I'll likely trade away or bring back to the storage shed at the next opportunity. Or I could carry four...
Notably, the Fortress costs more than twice as much as the Lewmar Claw. The Rocna costs twice as much as the Fortress. That may roughly approximate my level of confidence in them.
Oh, FWIW, the E29 is reversed: It has the Claw on the bow and a (steel) Danforth on the stern.
Last edited:
Solarken
Member III
My fortress is bent also. It’s just an emergency anchor ⚓️ now hanging on the bow rail. I have a 10kg Lewmar at the stern. But I use a Rocna Vulcan 12kg on the bow. I like that turner. Most times my anchor ⚓️ turns as needed but once in a while it does not cooperate.I have been using the Anchorlift "anchor turner kit" for several years, with my steel anchors. It's supposed to automatically turn the anchor to park correctly on the roller without user intervention. Works... most of the time. And I have spent many, many nights in reversing wind and current situations. I hope I didn't already post that earlier in the thread somewhere...
However, my aluminum Fortress anchor also came to me with a swivel. I recently had to yank it off the bottom, in the course of trying to escape a storm on a lee shore. (The Rocna was out of action - a long story.) This was the result:
View attachment 53607
(The stock, slightly out of frame, is also twisted) IDK, that might have happened without the swivel anyway, but it's not a good look. Anyhow, no more swivels on aluminum anchors for me. Or only the kind that rides a few links up the chain.
BTW, I wouldn't have even tried that maneuver with the Atomic 4 powered Ericson. It was a close thing with the 47 HP Yanmar turbo diesel at WOT. I.E. pretty stupid to have done it.
Replacement parts are available for the Fortress, but the cost is almost as much as a new anchor. I might just cut off the bent part and drill a new hole. Anyhow, after that, I splurged and now carry three different anchors:
Rocna on the bow.
Lemar Claw on the stern.
Brand new Fortress, disassembled, in storage bag in the hold, as backup.
Oh, and that bent thing, which I'll likely trade away or bring back to the storage shed at the next opportunity. Or I could carry four...
Notably, the Fortress costs more than twice as much as the Lewmar Claw. The Rocna costs twice as much as the Fortress. That may roughly approximate my level of confidence in them.
Oh, FWIW, the E29 is reversed: It has the Claw on the bow and a (steel) Danforth on the stern.
lots or good stuff in here.
Bump on this thread --
I'm about to replace anchor rode, and am wondering about:
* Swivel -- I will have only ~ 35' of chain, the rest line (am I allowed to call it line, or is it just rope in this usage?). Are swivels mainly only for all-chain systems? Like others have mentioned, Hines' book is clear about the need for a swivel, and yet I have run into comments here and elsewhere that they are not that useful and add another failure point. [I would not attach a swivel directly to an anchor -- Hines is clear that you use a shackle on both sides of the swivel.]
* Chain: I cannot get a full-strength shackle through the chain links... I know one needs to get special larger links on both ends of the chain; how do you do this? Will Westmarine do it? Can you only get that if you buy it in specific pre-determined lengths ("a shot"?) How does one sort this part out?
Many thanks!
PS: I'm planning to use braided line, rather than 3-strand, mainly for ease when stowing in the small chain locker on the deck (E34) singlehanded. Any suggestions about preferred brands/types also welcome.
I'm about to replace anchor rode, and am wondering about:
* Swivel -- I will have only ~ 35' of chain, the rest line (am I allowed to call it line, or is it just rope in this usage?). Are swivels mainly only for all-chain systems? Like others have mentioned, Hines' book is clear about the need for a swivel, and yet I have run into comments here and elsewhere that they are not that useful and add another failure point. [I would not attach a swivel directly to an anchor -- Hines is clear that you use a shackle on both sides of the swivel.]
* Chain: I cannot get a full-strength shackle through the chain links... I know one needs to get special larger links on both ends of the chain; how do you do this? Will Westmarine do it? Can you only get that if you buy it in specific pre-determined lengths ("a shot"?) How does one sort this part out?
Many thanks!
PS: I'm planning to use braided line, rather than 3-strand, mainly for ease when stowing in the small chain locker on the deck (E34) singlehanded. Any suggestions about preferred brands/types also welcome.
“Hines is clear that you use a shackle on both sides of the swivel.”
It’s interesting that Mantus has several paragraphs on their web page about swivels, going through those points and why it’s a good idea. Then at the bottom in big bold print they say - but our swivel is stronger than the chain and can’t side load.
And all their marketing photos show it attached directly to the anchor.
Marketing hype or innovative engineering? I have no idea and it’s a little annoying. Sigh.
It’s interesting that Mantus has several paragraphs on their web page about swivels, going through those points and why it’s a good idea. Then at the bottom in big bold print they say - but our swivel is stronger than the chain and can’t side load.
And all their marketing photos show it attached directly to the anchor.
Marketing hype or innovative engineering? I have no idea and it’s a little annoying. Sigh.
FWIW, I've been cruising without a swivel, for the first time, for about two months now. At first it was fine. But now the chain is so twisted it won't run fair through the windlass. Keeps jamming on hockles. Getting the anchor up involves manual up and down and up and down about a hundred times. I do have a new anchor-turner swivel, just haven't installed it yet. (Every time I think of it, the anchor is, well, you know, at the bottom of the bay.)
Pete the Cat
Sustaining Member
That seems weird. If the chain goes down off the windlass (powered down) seems like it should untwist itself when the anchor breaks free. I have been cruising for 50 years and never had a twisting problem.
Dan Morehouse
Member III
Dan Morehouse
Member III
I used to anchor for a month at a time on all chain rode & severely twisted chain was routine. I installed a swivel & never had a twist since, so it has earned its spot aboard.
I'm also still using my 45 lb Manson on my E-38 with 210' of 5/16 high test. Had the anchor & chain regalvanized about 3 years ago. Two seasons ago I made a bad judgement call & wound up anchored on a lee shore in 25-30 kts of wind gusting to 35 right after dark. Wind was driving 4'-5' waves into the anchorage, & boat was burying the bow & taking water over the foredeck about every fourth wave or so. Although I only had between 3:1 or 4:1 scope out, the bottom was firm sand & the anchor didn't budge. For what it's worth, I also had the anchor sail set, and I think that the reduction in loads on the ground tackle it affords may be what kept me off the beach. That was the worst night of my life at anchor. All that to say that when this anchor gets too scabby to display on my bow, I wouldn't even consider anything less than another Manson or a Rocna.
Dan Morehouse
1981 E-38 "Next Exit"
I'm also still using my 45 lb Manson on my E-38 with 210' of 5/16 high test. Had the anchor & chain regalvanized about 3 years ago. Two seasons ago I made a bad judgement call & wound up anchored on a lee shore in 25-30 kts of wind gusting to 35 right after dark. Wind was driving 4'-5' waves into the anchorage, & boat was burying the bow & taking water over the foredeck about every fourth wave or so. Although I only had between 3:1 or 4:1 scope out, the bottom was firm sand & the anchor didn't budge. For what it's worth, I also had the anchor sail set, and I think that the reduction in loads on the ground tackle it affords may be what kept me off the beach. That was the worst night of my life at anchor. All that to say that when this anchor gets too scabby to display on my bow, I wouldn't even consider anything less than another Manson or a Rocna.
Dan Morehouse
1981 E-38 "Next Exit"
Thanks again, all.
Just to follow up:
** How do you get a big link on your anchor chain, so you can get a big enough shackle through it? (with standard chain, the shackle always has to be undersized = weakest link) Westmarine is telling me to get some DIY link that one peens to close it permanently... does anyone here do that?
** I'm planning to splice (get spliced) the rope rode directly to the (standard link) chain. Any reason to get a thimble and use a shackle?
Just to follow up:
** How do you get a big link on your anchor chain, so you can get a big enough shackle through it? (with standard chain, the shackle always has to be undersized = weakest link) Westmarine is telling me to get some DIY link that one peens to close it permanently... does anyone here do that?
** I'm planning to splice (get spliced) the rope rode directly to the (standard link) chain. Any reason to get a thimble and use a shackle?
We spliced our rode directly to the chain using the instructions from The Complete Rigger’s Apprentice by Brian Toss. He calls this method the Traditional Irony Chain Splice (page 92). Done properly it is nearly 100 efficient, Brion says, but needs to be practiced to do well.
I have one of these--Mantus, from West Marine. Came with the boat. Looks swell.
The shackle pin was covered with fabric, so as not to chafe the deck. The pin rusted brutally and a new shackle required.
The shackle pin was covered with fabric, so as not to chafe the deck. The pin rusted brutally and a new shackle required.