- Status
Rudder Post Re-inforcement
I suspect this has happened before. I see some longitudinal marks on the
post just above the rudder. I get the idea of a smaller diameter tube
the same length (26 inches?), with the holes drilled through. Of course,
it will be a little heavier.
Also, the boat is still in the water. To put it back on, the post will
obviously be in the water. Anyone have any ideas how to keep water
from entering the top? I'm still thinking "roll pin" to pull it back into place.
The water temperature is 42-degrees, so getting in is not preferred.
The rain is back, the wind is howling, and it's fogged in. Well, at least
I'm not in Antarctica.
http://yachtpals.com/boating/rudder-problems
Thanks.
--------------
I suspect this has happened before. I see some longitudinal marks on the
post just above the rudder. I get the idea of a smaller diameter tube
the same length (26 inches?), with the holes drilled through. Of course,
it will be a little heavier.
Also, the boat is still in the water. To put it back on, the post will
obviously be in the water. Anyone have any ideas how to keep water
from entering the top? I'm still thinking "roll pin" to pull it back into place.
The water temperature is 42-degrees, so getting in is not preferred.
The rain is back, the wind is howling, and it's fogged in. Well, at least
I'm not in Antarctica.
http://yachtpals.com/boating/rudder-problems
Thanks.
--------------
bayhoss
Member III
Preventing water entry
I don't know what is around you in terms of supply vendors. But, if you have a hollow tube one of the best plugs to use is a plummers plug (avialable at most hardware stores) they are yellow plastic, have a black rubber center section and a wing nut in the center. When you tighten the nut the seal expands aginst the pressure and it will seal. If that is not to be had, a can of injectafoam will hold tight. Next option is good old ducktape.
Hope this helps!
Silence is golden, but ducktape is silver
Frank
I don't know what is around you in terms of supply vendors. But, if you have a hollow tube one of the best plugs to use is a plummers plug (avialable at most hardware stores) they are yellow plastic, have a black rubber center section and a wing nut in the center. When you tighten the nut the seal expands aginst the pressure and it will seal. If that is not to be had, a can of injectafoam will hold tight. Next option is good old ducktape.
Hope this helps!
Silence is golden, but ducktape is silver
Frank
Matey
Member III
The Bends
I'm really glad you were able to drop the rudder. A couple more thoughts
Regards, Greg
The best of luck.
Ingenuity is a beautiful thing ..
I'm really glad you were able to drop the rudder. A couple more thoughts
- Replacement rudder : Details / dimensions on John's rudder. Shipping a (long) item from the east would be nasty, but a bit larger rudder with a straight shaft could be a very good thing ?
- Straightening : I like Harvey's idea of packing it with sand to preserve shape and Steve's thought on an inner sleeve. Both good ideas. I'd wager you'll need more force than a come-along to get it where you want. Think I'd ask around for the handiest machinist, commercial boat or truck /tractor repair guy you can find to help with the bend. He's likely to be the scruffiest looking card in town, but most places have a MacGyver. He doesn't need to know boats .. just metal. I'm thinking forklift or a press with very carefully support.
- Re-install : I'd think someone is going to get wet. Maybe you in a borrowed wet suit, a diver or a hardy local willing to make a buck. Teenager comes to mind ? Some good ideas for sealing were mentioned .. I'll throw out toilet bowl ring wax. I keep a couple aboard always for a quick plug. Clean the inside good, pack in some paper or a wad of tape with a string attached to pull it out later and stuff in the wax. They're under $3- and avail. at most hardware stores.
I know we're all interested in seeing you pull this off and continue the adventure .. safely. Keep coming with updates when you can.
Regards, Greg
The best of luck.
Ingenuity is a beautiful thing ..
Any hardware stores there? What kind of tools do you have?
Once the shaft is straight you could run a wooden dowel into the shaft and secure it with some screws thru the tiller head bolt holes. A heavy eye screw into the end of the dowel would allow you to tie a line to it. Seal the whole mess with some black electrical tape(or caulk).
Tie a weight(nut?) to some line and drop it thru the rudder shaft tube(in the boat) and you should be able to snag the line from under the boat with a boat hook......tie the line to the eye screw in the rudder shaft and with any luck pulling the line should get the rudder shaft back into it's rightful place.
As a safety backup I'd drill a hole thru the trailing edge of the rudder and attach a second "retrieval line" w/ float.
A long/double line with the knot above water will allow you to pull it thru after all is said and done.You may have to back the rear of the boat into shallow water(ground the rudder) to to reattach the tiller head.
IMPORTANT ???
How negatively buoyant is the rudder in the water.....estimated weight?
Last edited:
2" is the pipe diameter, which is always measured as inner diameter based on Schedule 40 pipe. The OD of 2" Sch40 pipe is 2.375", so we are good there.
Been communicating with BigRocks on the backside to see where he wants to go here. BTW, when my Foss rudder was shipped, the cost to ship from east to west was around $85 ground. Not unreasonable....
Been communicating with BigRocks on the backside to see where he wants to go here. BTW, when my Foss rudder was shipped, the cost to ship from east to west was around $85 ground. Not unreasonable....
This thread got me thinking that it might be possible to replace an Ericson 27 rudder with an Ericson 29 rudder and end up with a larger rudder. I printed out the line drawings (from the Resources section) for both boats, stacked them on top of each other and held them up to a light. The rudders according to the line drawings are nearly identical. The difference is at the hull to rudder intersection.
Does anyone know differently?
Does anyone know differently?
Rudder Update
Sorry for the delay--feeling a little under the weather.
John & I have been communicating about his old E29 Rudder. NOT to
create any Rumors, but it appears John's Old E29 rudder has the same
dimensions as my E27 rudder (shorter post of course). One would
expect the E29 to have a longer & wider rudder, as it has a deeper
keel, wider beam & more ballast.
Assuming that John's rudder is an actual E29 rudder (and that some
previous owner didn't modify one), it's possible that Ericson did it
this way to save on production costs. Reinforcing the hull (tube)
would be necessary to use a larger rudder. This is still speculation,
of course.
---------------------
Sorry for the delay--feeling a little under the weather.
John & I have been communicating about his old E29 Rudder. NOT to
create any Rumors, but it appears John's Old E29 rudder has the same
dimensions as my E27 rudder (shorter post of course). One would
expect the E29 to have a longer & wider rudder, as it has a deeper
keel, wider beam & more ballast.
Assuming that John's rudder is an actual E29 rudder (and that some
previous owner didn't modify one), it's possible that Ericson did it
this way to save on production costs. Reinforcing the hull (tube)
would be necessary to use a larger rudder. This is still speculation,
of course.
---------------------Steve Swann
Member III
Trailer Still Needed????
I just read this post. Sorry I'm late, guys! I'll say this with some reservations and caveats, but I can't ignore the situation, either.
I have a new Nor'sea 27 trailer in Boise (3'8" draft) that might work if I am not too late for all of this. My Nor'sea is off the trailer until February sitting at Idasailor Marine for a refit. I have to go to Port Townsend, WA to pick up 4 very large sails in early January and drop off my liferaft for recertification. I could drive my F350 pickup and bring my empty trailer. I can be geographically VERY close to your boat very soon.
2 other mentions: Joel, at Idasailor Marine, Boise, ID, could likely replace your OEM rudder with something better. He does high quality work and might be able to put a rush on this. Your boat could follow me home for the repairs... We'd have to figure out where to return it in Feb.
I would rather NOT put this trailer in saltwater. I'd prefer to have the boat set on the trailer. I can be reached on my cell (208) 867-8484 any time to discuss possibilities and logistics.
Steve Swann
E25 cb "Seahorse"
I just read this post. Sorry I'm late, guys! I'll say this with some reservations and caveats, but I can't ignore the situation, either.
I have a new Nor'sea 27 trailer in Boise (3'8" draft) that might work if I am not too late for all of this. My Nor'sea is off the trailer until February sitting at Idasailor Marine for a refit. I have to go to Port Townsend, WA to pick up 4 very large sails in early January and drop off my liferaft for recertification. I could drive my F350 pickup and bring my empty trailer. I can be geographically VERY close to your boat very soon.
2 other mentions: Joel, at Idasailor Marine, Boise, ID, could likely replace your OEM rudder with something better. He does high quality work and might be able to put a rush on this. Your boat could follow me home for the repairs... We'd have to figure out where to return it in Feb.
I would rather NOT put this trailer in saltwater. I'd prefer to have the boat set on the trailer. I can be reached on my cell (208) 867-8484 any time to discuss possibilities and logistics.
Steve Swann
E25 cb "Seahorse"
Some info and some closure
We just spent three delightful days at the resort in La Push, WA. We drove in, good paved hiway, 14 miles from the hwy 101 intersection at Forks (vampire central...).
I walked the marina and spoke to the Port Mgr.
That E-27 that started this thread thread is still there. The port is in process of repo-ing it for non-payment of moorage.
I took a few pictures of it.
I will put up a new thread with the pics.
The harbor master told me that he has checked state records and the boat is not stolen. The boat owner has left the area and abandoned the boat.
The port is working on the legal procedure to allow a purchaser to re-title it.
I could not make out a HIN from my vantage point on the dock, but this is a stock OB model that someone has also added a bracket for the present four strokce OB. The OB may be one of the more valuable assets on the vessel. Tiller steered. Roller furled head sail with "line drive" furling mechanism. Nice anchor. Standard winches. Home made hard dodger. Hatches are home brew replacements. The rudder is in the cockpit and looks as though the shaft may have been straightened some.
The Port just wants the boat gone, and selling price is negotiable down to residual value in the motor...
There is a gravel ramp there but no lift of any kind. No obvious way to even crane off a spar. The spar foot is not hinged, by the way.
Consulting your chart, note that Seattle is couple of days away or more. Grays Harbor is a quite a bit closer, and Astoria is 8 hours further yet down the coast.
If (!) the motor runs well, and you could bring your own rudder, and... install it from underneath at high tide... you'd be good to go.
At low tide there is about a foot under the keel at most -- their harbor gets dredged about every other year, and needs it due to silting in.
If you want this boat contact Mr. Billy Brux, Quileute Port Authority, PO Box 279, LaPush, WA 98350. Cell= 360-374-5392. Email= billy.brux@quileutenation.org
I doubt that Billy has any more info than I have provided here, but it will not hurt to ask.
Regards,
Loren
We just spent three delightful days at the resort in La Push, WA. We drove in, good paved hiway, 14 miles from the hwy 101 intersection at Forks (vampire central...).
I walked the marina and spoke to the Port Mgr.
That E-27 that started this thread thread is still there. The port is in process of repo-ing it for non-payment of moorage.
I took a few pictures of it.
I will put up a new thread with the pics.
The harbor master told me that he has checked state records and the boat is not stolen. The boat owner has left the area and abandoned the boat.
The port is working on the legal procedure to allow a purchaser to re-title it.
I could not make out a HIN from my vantage point on the dock, but this is a stock OB model that someone has also added a bracket for the present four strokce OB. The OB may be one of the more valuable assets on the vessel. Tiller steered. Roller furled head sail with "line drive" furling mechanism. Nice anchor. Standard winches. Home made hard dodger. Hatches are home brew replacements. The rudder is in the cockpit and looks as though the shaft may have been straightened some.
The Port just wants the boat gone, and selling price is negotiable down to residual value in the motor...
There is a gravel ramp there but no lift of any kind. No obvious way to even crane off a spar. The spar foot is not hinged, by the way.
Consulting your chart, note that Seattle is couple of days away or more. Grays Harbor is a quite a bit closer, and Astoria is 8 hours further yet down the coast.
If (!) the motor runs well, and you could bring your own rudder, and... install it from underneath at high tide... you'd be good to go.
At low tide there is about a foot under the keel at most -- their harbor gets dredged about every other year, and needs it due to silting in.
If you want this boat contact Mr. Billy Brux, Quileute Port Authority, PO Box 279, LaPush, WA 98350. Cell= 360-374-5392. Email= billy.brux@quileutenation.org
I doubt that Billy has any more info than I have provided here, but it will not hurt to ask.
Regards,
Loren
Last edited:
- Status