E-33RH Advice in buying one (Lake Erie)

[Loren Beach]

I am terribly afraid that the CO does not even have any wedges.

IMHO, not difficult to make. Our boat came with a total of four. Two long ones for each side & one in front and another in the back.
They had been carved or ground from some pieces of teak, but I thought there should more uniform support around the whole spar circumference.
I used some scrap hardwood, about one inch square or less. Epoxied some quarter inch X about 2" thick wood onto one side to create a sort of a long "L" shaped piece. I cut it into pieces about an inch or less wide. The longer side had to be sanded down and shaped some to fit in the slot by the spar.
They all dropped into the slot all the way around, snugly. I put a bead of sealant around the top part to hold them in place. Then replaced the vinyl cover over all to keep water out. Then, lastly, put a sunbrella cover over all of this to protect the vinyl.
I wish I had some photos of the process. It's not difficult to do but the describing seems to take too many words.... !

 

[K2MSmith]

Good advice, thank you. Mostly day sailing and cruises first, but eventually I'd like to get involved in casual club family races. My boys are learning on Optis now, so hopefully they can crew.

I am terribly afraid that the CO does not even have any wedges. Rod rigging except the usual backstay, forestay and running back stays. Very slight green patina on shroud turnbuckles. Not sure you can pick up anything from the photos below... Definitely more complex rigging than I am used to

That’s very interesting. You appear to have “check stays” installed in your boat, rather than the running backstays that I have . I am not sure that is a standard option but Seth would know .
Regarding the “winch farm” setup at the mast . Mine was originally setup that way and was mostly sailed with a crew - which works well with that setup . Since I sail mostly single hand , I rerouted everything back to the cockpit ( I have two lewmar self tailing 40’s and new clutches one each side of companionway. It was a big project but it works well for me .

 

[Rocinante33]

IMHO, not difficult to make. Our boat came with a total of four. Two long ones for each side & one in front and another in the back.
They had been carved or ground from some pieces of teak, but I thought there should more uniform support around the whole spar circumference.
I used some scrap hardwood, about one inch square or less. Epoxied some quarter inch X about 2" thick wood onto one side to create a sort of a long "L" shaped piece. I cut it into pieces about an inch or less wide. The longer side had to be sanded down and shaped some to fit in the slot by the spar.
They all dropped into the slot all the way around, snugly. I put a bead of sealant around the top part to hold them in place. Then replaced the vinyl cover over all to keep water out. Then, lastly, put a sunbrella cover over all of this to protect the vinyl.
I wish I had some photos of the process. It's not difficult to do but the describing seems to take too many words.... !

Wedges are one of the last things to do, though. First, get you shrouds and stays inspected and judged good to go. I sailed my boat for about 10 years without knowing they were supposed to be there with no I’ll effects. Then oil the turnbuckles lightly and make sure they are free to turn (with cotter pins removed, of course. Next, go here to resources section and print this up:

Owner/Service Bulletin - E33 Owners Bulletin No2

E33 Owners Bulletin No2

ericsonyachts.org

it is written by Don Kohlman in the Ericsson factory when our boats were new. It is absolutely definitive, IMHO, for mast adjustment On a fractional rig. The mast must be put into “column,” those instructions are clear and easy to follow.they insist that the mast must be in column.

Later after mast & rigging adjustment, then add the wedges. Alternatives to Loren’s DIY approach (nothing wrong with DIY) are:

Custom Rubber Corp

Custom Rubber Corp. offers molded rubber marine products available for sale direct to consumers and/or distributors. Products include: snubbers, spreader boots, flapper valve.

www.customrubbercorp.com

Spartite 2000 Mast Wedge

Spartite 2000 Mast Wedge replaces mast wedges to completely support the mast and seal the cavity between the mast and the partners. Kits include supplies needed for installation and allows users to build a simple mold for even the most complex partners. F

www.defender.com

 

[Loren Beach]

Later after mast & rigging adjustment, then add the wedges. Alternatives to Loren’s DIY approach (nothing wrong with DIY) are:

I have friends who are happy with the poured "Spartite" product, altho any slip ups can result in difficulty removing the mast later.
That other link is a new one (to me), and looks like a great concept. If starting over that might be my choice.

 

[sf1332]

Wedges are one of the last things to do, though. First, get you shrouds and stays inspected and judged good to go. I sailed my boat for about 10 years without knowing they were supposed to be there with no I’ll effects. Then oil the turnbuckles lightly and make sure they are free to turn (with cotter pins removed, of course. Next, go here to resources section and print this up:

Owner/Service Bulletin - E33 Owners Bulletin No2

E33 Owners Bulletin No2

ericsonyachts.org

it is written by Don Kohlman in the Ericsson factory when our boats were new. It is absolutely definitive, IMHO, for mast adjustment On a fractional rig. The mast must be put into “column,” those instructions are clear and easy to follow.they insist that the mast must be in column.

Later after mast & rigging adjustment, then add the wedges. Alternatives to Loren’s DIY approach (nothing wrong with DIY) are:

Custom Rubber Corp

Custom Rubber Corp. offers molded rubber marine products available for sale direct to consumers and/or distributors. Products include: snubbers, spreader boots, flapper valve.

www.customrubbercorp.com

Spartite 2000 Mast Wedge

Spartite 2000 Mast Wedge replaces mast wedges to completely support the mast and seal the cavity between the mast and the partners. Kits include supplies needed for installation and allows users to build a simple mold for even the most complex partners. F

www.defender.com

Great info, thank you!

 

[sf1332]

Status update:

I was not able to get a surveyor for the Wed next week as most seems to be booked (the only one available was 2hrs away and asking 50% more). However, was able to get someone 2 weeks out, so the following are my actions plans.

Step1: Wed next week: ½ day scheduled with owner to go over the boat again in more detail ("self-survey") focusing on sea trial. A knowledgable friend is dropping by to take a look at "cosmetics" work and give me some advice on what work/hours/cost would take to cover up the head and v-berth exposed areas. Will take more photos, check instruments, see how the engine runs under high RPM and how boat drives. Plan to sail as well.

Step 2: 2 Weeks Later: this surveyor offered to do "Inspections Only" survey basically focusing on issues/corrections needed as I don't need a full survey for insurance. Will haul out the boat for an hour and ask him to check the bottom carefully. After doing a self-survey above, believe I'd have a lot more specific questions to ask. If needed, will ask the surveyor to do a short sea trial.

I am not planning to hire a rigger to inspect and work on the boat until after close at this point...which means I need to be fairly certain that spars and rigging are in good shape from the above 2 viewings.

Given all the advice I received already, I believe I have plenty of knowledge base what to look for, but if any other thoughts, let me know. Thank you in advance!

 

[Loren Beach]

I am not planning to hire a rigger to inspect and work on the boat until after close at this point...which means I need to be fairly certain that spars and rigging are in good shape from the above 2 viewings.

One way to view this is to inspect the present rig and take notes and at least be sure it will stand for a while in the short term. Next, just factor into your budget a new standing rig within the next year IF the existing rig is over 20 years old.
Does the present owner have receipts for the installation of the present rig? (Some will, but most probably will not...)

 

[sf1332]

One way to view this is to inspect the present rig and take notes and at least be sure it will stand for a while in the short term. Next, just factor into your budget a new standing rig within the next year IF the existing rig is over 20 years old.
Does the present owner have receipts for the installation of the present rig? (Some will, but most probably will not...)

I am fairly certain all the spars and standing rigs are original, ie 40yrs old (ie, the current owner didn't replace any). Given fresh water boat and only used ½ of the year, perhaps I could consider them to be only 20yrs old. I am certain I would be replacing some of the rig when I get a rigger there.

 

[sf1332]

That’s very interesting. You appear to have “check stays” installed in your boat, rather than the running backstays that I have . I am not sure that is a standard option but Seth would know .
Regarding the “winch farm” setup at the mast . Mine was originally setup that way and was mostly sailed with a crew - which works well with that setup . Since I sail mostly single hand , I rerouted everything back to the cockpit ( I have two lewmar self tailing 40’s and new clutches one each side of companionway. It was a big project but it works well for me .

I would like to have all lines led aft to cockpit as well (down the road).

Fairly certain that are running backstays. Currently attached to the inboard tracks for convenience. They used to be attached to tangs (?) at transom...believe that's the original configuration to counter the forestay forces.

 

[Rocinante33]

Status update:

I was not able to get a surveyor for the Wed next week as most seems to be booked (the only one available was 2hrs away and asking 50% more). However, was able to get someone 2 weeks out, so the following are my actions plans.

Step1: Wed next week: ½ day scheduled with owner to go over the boat again in more detail ("self-survey") focusing on sea trial. A knowledgable friend is dropping by to take a look at "cosmetics" work and give me some advice on what work/hours/cost would take to cover up the head and v-berth exposed areas. Will take more photos, check instruments, see how the engine runs under high RPM and how boat drives. Plan to sail as well.

Step 2: 2 Weeks Later: this surveyor offered to do "Inspections Only" survey basically focusing on issues/corrections needed as I don't need a full survey for insurance. Will haul out the boat for an hour and ask him to check the bottom carefully. After doing a self-survey above, believe I'd have a lot more specific questions to ask. If needed, will ask the surveyor to do a short sea trial.

I am not planning to hire a rigger to inspect and work on the boat until after close at this point...which means I need to be fairly certain that spars and rigging are in good shape from the above 2 viewings.

Given all the advice I received already, I believe I have plenty of knowledge base what to look for, but if any other thoughts, let me know. Thank you in advance!

Make sure to look closely at the top of the fittings where the wire (or rod) enters into it. Also at the mast to shroud fittings where side loads may be extreme. That may be a likely place for developing rust and crevice corrosion. Here is a decent article for you reference;

Sailboat Rig Inspection Tips - Practical Sailor

Inspecting your sailboat's rigging should be methodical. First, check the mast tube for problems. Do the masthead sheaves turn freely? Are the edges of the sheaves worn, so that a halyard might jump the sheave and wedge itself between the sheave and its box? Is the mast dimpled, or bent?

www.practical-sailor.com

 

[K2MSmith]

I would like to have all lines led aft to cockpit as well (down the road).

Fairly certain that are running backstays. Currently attached to the inboard tracks for convenience. They used to be attached to tangs (?) at transom...believe that's the original configuration to counter the forestay forces.

I am not completely sure on the nautical term for RB's when they are moved forward but mine are attached to tangs at the transom. the top ends are attached to the mast right behind the forestay (about 5/8" way up the mast fractionally ). In this configuration they are called "running back stays". I like the idea of locating them where you have them. Since I sail mostly SH, I usually just connect them using bungee cords to the shrouds and I don't use them. From my understanding our rigs do not require the running backs to hold them up because we do have an actual backstay and the spreaders are swept slightly to provide the aft force vector needed to hold the rig. Still for SH sailing, I think your setup might be the better. I think (although I have not sailed on a boat with a staysail) some cruising boats with masthead rigs and staysails have running backs set up the way you have them to stabilize the rig and provide more trim when using a staysail, but I am not 100% sure about that.

 

[Rocinante33]

As I understand it, the RBS are to prevent mast "pumping." For near-shore sailing it is not going to likely be necessary, although I don't know about in the chop in your SF bay. I have heard it said they are principally for offshore use in a big swell or cross sea.

The OP may have simply had his moved over to the side track to get it out of the way when not in use, ala your use of bungie cords to pull it aside. This seems especially convenient to do if the bottom of the RBS has a nice, easy to disconnect/reconnect shackle.

Kevin, that is a good pic of your boat showing the RBS in use.

 

[K2MSmith]

The OP may have simply had his moved over to the side track to get it out of the way when not in use, ala your use of bungie cords to pull it aside. This seems especially convenient to do if the bottom of the RBS has a nice, easy to disconnect/reconnect shackle.

Yes, There are existing snap shackles to connect the dyneema running back lines (has an eye splice on it) to the purchase system used to tension the RBS. These are the small high tension type of shackles that have a little "trigger" switch inside that usually requires a pen or similar tool to open. I unsnap these shackles to disconnect the running back lines and use a small loop of bungee (with a plastic clip on it) to bungee the RBS lines to a U-bolts on the chainplate deck fittings for the shroud fittings. Not very elegant, but simple solution to get them out of the way if I'm not using them. The RBS are really a pain to use if single-handing - they are another control you have to mess with on every tack or gybe and if you screw up and fail to release tension on the windward side before the tack, you can loose your rig.

 

[Loren Beach]

FWIW, the E-33RH I used to crew on never used its runners, but we sail in more protected waters. In the ocean I would want to use them, as I have done with the runners on our O-34. "Just to be extra safe"....
Our new runners, as of this year, are also dyneema, and have eyes that terminate well above the cabin top. I use the OEM dacron line tails to lead them to the aft winches, and those tails have eyes and D shackles to make the connection.

 

[Rocinante33]

Hey sf1332, how is it going with this? Have you been able to move your boat, as planned?

 

[sf1332]

Yes, I am happy to report that I've bought E33RH Hull#12 last week! I was planning to post this, but suddenly got busy with kids returning to school, and trying to do some work on the boat before moving her to home port. Perhaps I will start a new thread later.

The conditions survey found few items when hauled out: cracks around the quarter thruhulls, worn out cutlass bearing, etc. However, overall, the bottom inspection was satisfactory.

Mast & rigging: as I wrote before, I took a big risk on this. Unfortunately, the survey didn't produce any more positive or negative results. He basically skipped inspecting rigging saying he's never done rod rigging before. I am still trying to get a rigger to tune-up the rigging before the departure. Meanwhile, I have made few adjustments to the shrouds, and the slight mast bend I've noticed before seems to be corrected. Once I get a rigger out there, I will try to make sure all the potential weak points (e.g. backstay block, topping lift wire, etc) will be inspected. Currently trying to install/change out reefing lines, outhaul, etc.

BTW, ordered some items from Defender for the 1st time. Missing item in the box, thus had to call, and unfriendly service there. Are there any other good on-line marine supply stores (besides West Marine)?

 

[Afrakes]

Yes, I am happy to report that I've bought E33RH Hull#12 last week! I was planning to post this, but suddenly got busy with kids returning to school, and trying to do some work on the boat before moving her to home port. Perhaps I will start a new thread later.

The conditions survey found few items when hauled out: cracks around the quarter thruhulls, worn out cutlass bearing, etc. However, overall, the bottom inspection was satisfactory.

Mast & rigging: as I wrote before, I took a big risk on this. Unfortunately, the survey didn't produce any more positive or negative results. He basically skipped inspecting rigging saying he's never done rod rigging before. I am still trying to get a rigger to tune-up the rigging before the departure. Meanwhile, I have made few adjustments to the shrouds, and the slight mast bend I've noticed before seems to be corrected. Once I get a rigger out there, I will try to make sure all the potential weak points (e.g. backstay block, topping lift wire, etc) will be inspected. Currently trying to install/change out reefing lines, outhaul, etc.

BTW, ordered some items from Defender for the 1st time. Missing item in the box, thus had to call, and unfriendly service there. Are there any other good on-line marine supply stores (besides West Marine)?

Defender. I've been dealing with them for many years and have never been disappointed. Don't be put off by one bad experience. We all have off days. They also have been suffering the same supply and labor challenges all of us service business owners have.

 

[Rocinante33]

Yes, I am happy to report that I've bought E33RH Hull#12 last week! I was planning to post this, but suddenly got busy with kids returning to school, and trying to do some work on the boat before moving her to home port. Perhaps I will start a new thread later.

The conditions survey found few items when hauled out: cracks around the quarter thruhulls, worn out cutlass bearing, etc. However, overall, the bottom inspection was satisfactory.

Mast & rigging: as I wrote before, I took a big risk on this. Unfortunately, the survey didn't produce any more positive or negative results. He basically skipped inspecting rigging saying he's never done rod rigging before. I am still trying to get a rigger to tune-up the rigging before the departure. Meanwhile, I have made few adjustments to the shrouds, and the slight mast bend I've noticed before seems to be corrected. Once I get a rigger out there, I will try to make sure all the potential weak points (e.g. backstay block, topping lift wire, etc) will be inspected. Currently trying to install/change out reefing lines, outhaul, etc.

BTW, ordered some items from Defender for the 1st time. Missing item in the box, thus had to call, and unfriendly service there. Are there any other good on-line marine supply stores (besides West Marine)?

There are a lot of good sources listed on the Ericson EQ exchange, here:

Ericson EQ Exchange

A forum dedicated to the listing of products and services commonly utilized by Ericson Owners. Provided as a resource/starting place on where to locate particular product, or services needed to maintain their hull. Please add your product, vendor or service provided using the categories so...

ericsonyachts.org

Hamilton Marine, Jamestown Distributors and Fisheries Supply are a few vendors which come to mind. Some ports have mom and pop chandleries which are worth checking out, too.

 

[Mjmcgrath]

IMHO, not difficult to make. Our boat came with a total of four. Two long ones for each side & one in front and another in the back.
They had been carved or ground from some pieces of teak, but I thought there should more uniform support around the whole spar circumference.
I used some scrap hardwood, about one inch square or less. Epoxied some quarter inch X about 2" thick wood onto one side to create a sort of a long "L" shaped piece. I cut it into pieces about an inch or less wide. The longer side had to be sanded down and shaped some to fit in the slot by the spar.
They all dropped into the slot all the way around, snugly. I put a bead of sealant around the top part to hold them in place. Then replaced the vinyl cover over all to keep water out. Then, lastly, put a sunbrella cover over all of this to protect the vinyl.
I wish I had some photos of the process. It's not difficult to do but the describing seems to take too many words.... !

Yes, I am happy to report that I've bought E33RH Hull#12 last week! I was planning to post this, but suddenly got busy with kids returning to school, and trying to do some work on the boat before moving her to home port. Perhaps I will start a new thread later.

The conditions survey found few items when hauled out: cracks around the quarter thruhulls, worn out cutlass bearing, etc. However, overall, the bottom inspection was satisfactory.

Mast & rigging: as I wrote before, I took a big risk on this. Unfortunately, the survey didn't produce any more positive or negative results. He basically skipped inspecting rigging saying he's never done rod rigging before. I am still trying to get a rigger to tune-up the rigging before the departure. Meanwhile, I have made few adjustments to the shrouds, and the slight mast bend I've noticed before seems to be corrected. Once I get a rigger out there, I will try to make sure all the potential weak points (e.g. backstay block, topping lift wire, etc) will be inspected. Currently trying to install/change out reefing lines, outhaul, etc.

BTW, ordered some items from Defender for the 1st time. Missing item in the box, thus had to call, and unfriendly service there. Are there any other good on-line marine supply stores (besides West Marine)?

Hello and congratulations. My wife and I purchased our E33 in 2017. It has been a great boat in every way. Cruising with the crew, JAM club racing and just sailing solo. If you want to reach out to me for information (my limited experience) I’d be happy to help you if I can. I know I had a bunch of questions when we first got her.
good luck!
-Mike

 

[Old e]

Anyone selling a E33 on West Coast or East ?