E32-3 Reefing Mysteries [Master Thread]

[Christian Williams]

(1)I can't imagine it matters. Anyhow, I ground the ears for the pin off two years ago, and haven't missed them (one was broken). Topping lift works fine.

(2) I removed the reef line jammers too in favor of line clutches.

 

[Kenneth K]

I'd remove the clevis pin and see where the natural "lie" of the topping lift is with the boom in the raised and lowered positions. Then you can decide the best location relative to the pin.

If, like Filkee and me, there is nothing attached to the pin, you could just leave it removed. It was probably just installed by Kenyon for those boat manufacturers that used mast-led topping lift adjustment mechanisms.

 

[llenrow]

Nobody likes single line reefing? Small blocks on forward cringles —-better purchase, less friction? Mine run outside from aft block and track——not sure if you even can go UP from forward sleeves anyway if I rigged internally

Doug

 

[Loren Beach]

Not "nobody" but not very many, either

Nobody likes single line reefing? Small blocks on forward cringles —-better purchase, less friction? Mine run outside from aft block and track——not sure if you even can go UP from forward sleeves anyway if I rigged internally

Doug

Single line reefing seems to sort of work OK for small boats and only when done well before you need to reef. Can't think of a sailmaker or rigger that likes the idea. Too many blocks leading to too much friction drag.

 

[supersailor]

Don't know but I've been using single line on my E-34 for about 4 years successfully now. The previous system required you to go forward to reef the forward reef and back to the cockpit to reef the aft reef. It seemed to be a rather stupid system particularly for The single hander. The single line works for me. Of course, a bank of Barient 24's on the cabin top works well for the last nudge tight.

 

[G Kiba]

Been using a single line reef for the last 10 years on my E27. The main is small enough to get away with it. To cut the friction, I lashed blocks to the sail reef points. Saw this on a Beneteau 323. Made the whole system work like a charm. Can reef anytime. Don't have to reef early and have never had to winch. Thinking of changing the blocks to shiveless.

 

[Kenneth K]

It looks like Filke, the OP'r, figured out his in-boom rigging back in May. I'm just attacking mine now so I'll post some pictures of what I found. Besides, I should correct the drawing I posted from 6/23. I had the function right, but not the actual line configuration; and the out-haul purchase is actually 4:1 and not 2:1.


(Aft end of boom)

The double-ended blocks on the out-hauls are typical Garhauer--solid, heavy and probably overkill for the application. If I could find lightweight blocks to replace them with I might, but I haven't been able to find any yet. At least now I know where those clunking noises inside the boom are coming from.

Thinking about replacing the lines, too. They look like 3/8" Sta-Set, probably original--a little faded and rough, but easily still usable. Is this a good application for a modern, low-stretch line (maybe 8mm??). Or, maybe it wouldn't be worth the cost on my never raced and not-often-sailed-well cruiser....

 

[Kenneth K]

I had the function right, but not the actual line configuration; and the out-haul purchase is actually 4:1 and not 2:1.

Thought I should correct this with an updated post from what I learned from this post:
http://www.ericsonyachts.org/infoexchange/showthread.php?16280-APS-annual-line-and-rigging-sale




The above photo IS how both of my in-boom reef lines were rigged, but it is NOT a 4:1 purchase outhaul. It is a 1:1 purchase single line reefing setup. If the "stopper knot" near the gooseneck is run up through the reef "tack" and back to a dead-end on the mast, the result would be this:



The internal blocks offset each other leaving no mechanical advantage, and a 2:1 is only achieved (excluding friction) by looping the end of the lines through a cringle and then back down to a fixed point). Other owners report that without the SLR setup, the reefing lines run straight through the boom with no internal pulleys, just the turning blocks at the fore and aft ends of the boom.

The main outhaul and topping lift on my boat were each rigged with internal blocks, resulting in 4:1 for the outhaul, and 2:1 for the topping lift, like this:

 

[Hagar2sail]

Shaking a reef out of this thread (see what I did there?). Ok getting past the bad puns...

This winter the project was to fix our reefing lines on our 35-3’s boom. Issues we had was that we could put the reef in, but when we released the line clutch for the reef it wouldn’t let the line pay back out.

A quick check showed that the sheaves at the gooseneck weren’t turning, and the aft ones weren’t working so hot either. All the drag meant when putting the reef in with the winch we could do it, but the line wouldn’t pay out.

So, we will replace all the sheaves, but of course now I couldn’t help but pull the cap off the boom and start understanding how the topping lift and outhaul were set up. What I found confuses me slightly and also I will be the first to admit I don’t really mess with the topping lift while sailing, and maybe that’s part of my issue. So currently our topping lift is rigged with a 3:1 purchase in the boom and is led aft. Meanwhile the outhaul is a 2:1 and just goes to a cleat on the boom. I feel like this is backwards and the PO maybe swapped these by accident / on purpose? I would think the outhaul should be a 3:1 since there is no other mechanical advantage helping me. And the topping lift could just use the 2:1 since if I have to I could always use a winch (though I have never felt that was needed). All the blocks say Kenyon on them, so I have to believe they are original. Does this make sense or am I off the rocker?

 

[Christian Williams]

Yes, the sheaves need to turn. Also, old line fouls up slab reefing. And the diameter of new line can be smaller than the Ericson recommendations, since a winch is always used when reefing. Smaller line runs much easier through any system.

For non-racing boats, a 2:1 outhaul is fine. To adjust it (I rarely bother), just luff.

But the topping lift is key, and 3:1 is necessary since booms are heavy. Many people hoist the boom up when in the slip to make headroom in the cockpit, then ease the TL after the mainsail is raised. For reefing, the cut of the reef points lifts the boom-end more for every reef, so adjustment of the TL is necessary. The correct slack in the TL is critical for sail set. Too much slack and it flops around. Too little slack and trimming the main sheet tightens the TL instead of the leach. Yes, I have to climb on the cabin top to do it every time.

The topping lift holds the boom solid when tensioned by the mainsheet. That can be valuable when reefing in heavy conditions, or when taking the boom apart in the slip. They do require constant adjustment. That's why so many have gone to solid vangs. For most yachts, a solid vang means the topping lift can be removed completely.

More: https://ericsonyachts.org/ie/ubs/new-spectra-topping-lift.699/

Getting Inside the Boom to Fix Topping Lift / Or Ditch it for a Solid Vang?

I have read a number of old threads and see that many are happy they replaced their topping lift with a rigid vang. I am considering that because of a problem that recently arose with the boom-internal hardware for my topping lift. (This post overlaps with a comment I just posted to...

ericsonyachts.org

 

[Kenneth K]

I ran my topping lift aft while keeping it on the boom. It's nice to be able to stand behind the wheel and adjust the topping lift. I kept the 2:1 block setup. If the boom is loaded, it's easy to reach up with the second free hand and help push or pull it into position.

I think the main outhaul would need to be 3 or 4 to 1 to pull the canvas tight. Even moreso on a slug-footed main like mine.

 

[Christian Williams]

Yes, most mainsails are loose-footed now. Much less drag on the outhaul.

But usually a very tight outhaul is unnecessary on a full mainsail, because as soon as a reef goes in the reef becomes the outhaul.

 

[Hagar2sail]

Christian are you using a loose footed main right now? I would think you would need more purchase on a loose footed main? The outhaul is another thing we really don't adjust much.

The TL we just leave so that when the full main is up, it has sagged about 1' from the leech of the sail. I haven't paid much attention where it is when we are reefed, but maybe I will from now on.

Also, looked at the thread of you replacing your TL with spectra, so did you do Top of Mast > spectra > soft shackle > yacht braid > into boom?

The picture is a bit fuzzy, but I was reading your receipt and think that is what you did?

 

[Christian Williams]

I have a loose-footed main. Doesn't need much outhaul purchase at all at the dock, or even when luffing. I set it and forget it.

Yes, my new topping lift is two pieces of Spectra with a soft shackle. Factory was two pieces of stainless wire connected with a standard shackle. A shackle is necessary so the boom can be easily detached.

The tackle inside the boom and the tail that exits the boom for handling remains double braid.

 

[vanilladuck]

Thanks for everyone who contributed to this post. I'm heading over to my recently purchased 1985 E32-3 today to replace the existing reefing lines. The lines in place now must be placeholders -- a little frayed and only long enough to run from a figure 8 at the end of the boom forward through the deck organizers and back to the clutches. I'm planning on starting with bowlines around the boom just to get these working for now.

Out of curiosity, I notice most the photos here show black booms and masts. My E32-3 has a white boom and mast. Is there a specification/material difference? Or is it more likely someone painted them at some point?

 

[Christian Williams]

Right, lead the reef line under the boom and tie the bowline around the line itself (rather than simply making a bowline around the boom). This makes a noose effect that keeps it in place better than a fixed-size loop, which tends to migrate fore and aft and get out of position.

Black masts were often anodized black, although some are painted black. Are all white masts painted white? Not sure. But color was apparently a Kenyon option and lots of our boats have white spars.

 

[Hagar2sail]

Our 1983 35-3 has white painted spars. Kinda wish they were anodized, the paint is more maintenance.

 

[vanilladuck]

Right, lead the reef line under the boom and tie the bowline around the line itself (rather than simply making a bowline around the boom). This makes a noose effect that keeps it in place better than a fixed-size loop, which tends to migrate fore and aft and get out of position.

Thanks, Christian - I took your advice Also took the opportunity to remove the cam levers. Should I be putting a spacer in place of the cam levers? I just put the bolt back in and tightened the self-locking nut until it grabbed some threads without putting any pressure on the new reefing lines running into the boom. The metal guide plate is just ever so slightly loose, but I'm guessing there's nothing to foul here.

 

[Kenneth K]

I might investigate the large gap between the front of your boom and the gooseneck fitting. I think these parts should have a snug fit. It looks like the holes have elongated in either your boom, gooseneck, or both. Too much play in the fitting could lead to cracking/splitting of the aluminum pieces.

VS . You might have to drill & tap new holes higher and or lower to get a snug fit.

It might also be worth checking the single main bolt that attaches the gooseneck to the stainless steel swivel on the mast. Mine was pretty deformed and allowed extra play in the fitting.

The holes in my gooseneck for this bolt were also slightly mis-shapen, so I drilled them out to accept the next larger bolt size to get a snug fit.

Looks like a nice boat! I love my 32-3.

 

[Christian Williams]

Yes, the (horizontal) bolt that holds the cast aluminum gooseneck to the fitting on the mast should be snug and checked regularly.

Also, the pintle, which allows lateral swing. Looseness of either can create unwanted forces and subsequent damage to the components.

The weak point of our goosenecks is the connection shown below, in which the ear of the casting was worked by loose fittings and eventually failed. That particular failure is not so easy to fix, old aluminum is difficult to weld, and a replacement gooseneck is $800 or so and a long wait from Rigrite (there are better solutions).

Note also in the photo that the stainless connector has sagged as result of the gudgeon being bent down. This condition meant that the swing of the boom was impeded--the mated fittings could snag where the U-shaped pintle housing met the lower gudgeon.
With reef lines and other stuff led back to the cockpit, there is more strain on the cast ears of the gooseneck than its designer probably intended back in the day.

The gooseneck is a critical part that rewards recurring attention.