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Ericson 41 Florida - Norway

gareth harris

Sustaining Member
So now we know why the boat was on ebay with no reserve.

The first question to ask is why that much water got into the bilge, and make sure the problem is corrected while she is hauled out - check every possible entry point below the waterline.

The second question is how long the water was there and how much damage it did. It is impossible to tell from the pictures how much damage there is to the engine, but it looks as though at least the transmission will need to be rebuilt. Hopefully you will not need a new engine, which would run more than you paid for the boat. It is also possible that there will be some rotten woodwork if the water was there a long time.

Since you are getting the boat shipped to Norway, you can take care of the problems there - perhaps you can get her dropped in the cradle on your front lawn so you can work at home, she will not be ready to sail anytme soon.

Gareth
Freyja E35 241 1972
 

sveinutne

Member III
Hi Gareth,
Yes, I got an offer for a new engine with the work included to remove the old engine and replace it with an other old but working engine for $15K I am not sure what to do, so I will fly over to Tampa on May 11. I wanted to go sooner, but my youngest daughter is getting her certificate of confirmation on May 9, and before that day I have to do a lot of preparation work with my wife in Norway. So 11-17 of May I will most likely be inside the boat working like a mad man. I hope to put her back into water when she gets to Norway. So in July it should be sailing in Norway.
 
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Sven

Seglare
I hope to put her back into water when she gets to Norway. So in July it should be sailing in Norway.

While that sounds utterly impossible, I certainly won't put it past you and I look forward to your first trip report.



-Sven
 

HughHarv

Hugh
Full of Sweet Water

She looks to still be showing a lot of waterline for a boat that's been in the water a while and presumably leaking below the waterline. More likey she is full of sweet water not salt water. Otherwise, I would think she'd be resting her keel on the bottom and sitting at an odd angle. I would check for leaks somewhere on deck, or in the cockpit.

She may look worse than what you find after a good scrubbing and I wouldn't remove on bolt on the tranny till an inspection proved it was locked up and really needing disassembly. You might just have to change the gear box lubrication once or twice in order to make things right there.
 

sveinutne

Member III
Sorry for the long silence, but there has been a lot of activity, but mostly documents and exchange of money. Now the boat is paid for in full, and on Thursday April 30th the boat will be moved to St. Petersburg. There the mast will be removed by one company, and another company will pull it out of the water and give it a high pressure wash underneath. Then it will sit there till a truck will come up from Miami with the new cradle and take her directly to Jacksonville.
What we will need before it can be taken to Jacksonville is a new V-drive. I have not been able to identify the V-drive, so it will have to wait till the boat is on dry land and I can get someone from the company there to take new pictures of the old V-drive, and then I hope we can order a new V-drive. How long it will take I do not know. But I will fly to St. Petersburg on May 12 and remove the old V-drive, and if the new one has arrived I will put It in. I will also install a lot of new instruments that I have ordered, so it will be a busy time till I fly back on May 17.
 
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sveinutne

Member III
The Heart of Gold is now in St. Petersburg, and the mast is taken off. This is a “learn as you go” project, an I have just learn that the engine will not be accepted into Europe, so I should leave it in the US.
I also need to go through a long an expensive CE certification of the boat, but with no engine it might not be too difficult. The boat is expected to be shipped out of Jacksonville on May 30<SUP>th</SUP> and will be in Amsterdam on June 14<SUP>th</SUP>, then from Amsterdam on June 19<SUP>th</SUP> and in Trondheim a week later. I am looking at the mast and might try to split it where it is screwed together, but I am not sure yet. I will deside when I look at it live on May 12. If some of you want to look at some pictures, it might be possible through the link below.
Regards
Svein
Message from Jen:<o:p></o:p>[/FONT][/COLOR][/B]
Svein, here are the photos we took of your boat.<o:p></o:p>
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To share your photos or receive notification when your friends share photos, get your own free Picasa Web Albums account.<o:p></o:p>
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treilley

Sustaining Partner
She has potential but you are going to be very busy for a few years. I cannot even fathom what they were thinking when they messed with the head stay chainplate. That is a disaster waiting to happen.

As for the mast and all those screws, I would be very surprised if you are able to back them out. Plan on drilling them and have lots of spare bits on hand.

Don't sweat the mast base and all that corrosion. That is probably the easiest fix as you can just remove a couple inches from the bottom and have your rigging guy make new standing rigging to the new length. You are planning on all new standing rigging right?

Good luck and keep us up to date on your progress.
 

sveinutne

Member III
Hi Tim,
What is " head stay chainplate”? Is it in the top of the mast or what is shown in picture 51? What was wrong with it?
 
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treilley

Sustaining Partner
Nope. I am talking about photo 11. The angles are just not right there and it looks like that chainplate should be down on the deck not on top of that temporary block of teak.

Photo 51 looks like a repaired and very tired spreader bracket also in need of attention.
 

sveinutne

Member III
Thank you Tim.
Now I see what you are talking about. To me it looks like part of the rim around the deck is missing in the front, so when that part is restored, it will be right. But now it does not look right.
 

Loren Beach

O34 - Portland, OR
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
I see what you mean about the stem fitting.
Strange.
Missing pieces of toe rail at the bow??

Interesting....

Best wishes,
Loren
 

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PDX

Member III
head stay tang

I have a "little brother" boat of the same vintage (Ericson 30-1). If its like mine it had a solid teak triangle at the tip of the bow, the same height as the teak toe rails. Originally, the tang for the head stay fit on top of the teak triangle and then was bolted down through it. On this one, it looks like somebody pried off the teak triangle. The screws around the periphery appear to be still there.

My guess as to why they did it is that there was a problem with fitting the furler in there. The bow areas of these boats are quite narrow. The tang is original but it was unbolted, bent, and moved higher on the hull to bring it forward. The process of raising it meant it no longer fit flush on the teak triangle so they removed the teak, replacing it with the thicker chunk of wood. The new chunk is not teak. It looks like a piece of softwood. What is really scary is that the tang does not appear to be bolted through the chunk of wood.
 

sveinutne

Member III
This is definitely something that will be changed. If you got a picture of how it should have been originally, it would help me in restoring it.
 

PDX

Member III
1366342007216145237423_102_erickison-41--69-side.jpg
 

PDX

Member III
Sveinute

I submitted a picture above of the way the Ericson 41 nose is supposed to look in profile. Just visualize the tip filled in with a solid teak triangle.

Keep in mind that if you restore the teak triangle look up front, the current headstay tang will not fit. You would have to have someone unbolt it, straighten it, and then reinstall it. Doing so might interfere with the furler. As I speculated above, I suspect the furler is why the change was made in the first place. The pulpit on your boat is not original (nor are the stanchions nor stern rail). It is more narrow than the original, worsening an already fine (albeit beautiful) bow point.

In the short run, if your goal is to return it to sailing ASAP, I would have a marine carpenter custom fit a piece of teak to replace the block that is currently there (that does not appear to have been cut to the proper angle). Then bolt it through the deck.

In the long run, if you want a reliable anchoring system, you are going to have to figure out a way to install a bow roller up there. IMO replacing the teak triangle is not the way to go unless you made it about 30 inches long, which would look ridiculous. If you want to do a complete restoration of your boat, your teak toe rails are going to need to come off anyway. Based on the pictures most of the bungs are gone. I'd be shocked if they didn't have significant dry rot (they did on my boat). You may want to try to configure a system that integrates a stainless steel fabricated nose section (like a Hinckley 35 Pilot) that transitions seamlessly into new teak toe rails.

Restoring your boat is going to take a ton of work and money. I'm not trying to be discouraging. I speak from experience (a 1968 Ericson 30). But if you stay with it you will have restored one of the most beautiful boats ever designed.
 

gareth harris

Sustaining Member
As I have mentiond before, the rig was redone after hurricane damage in 2004, and I have warned of the risk of cowboy boat yards - that headstay looks as though it was done by the rodeo clown. I would not be too concerned about rebuilding it as it was originally done, just find a good rigger to build something suitable now. Some of the other pictures suggest not all of the hurricane damaged parts were replaced, so you may need to get some components of the rig machined - again, a good rigger can advise you.

The base of the mast shows exactly how much water sat in the bilge, which will give you some idea when you look around the interior as to what else may be damaged. It was clearly underwater for a long time.

Infuriating that the eurocrats will not let you keep the engine, I assume it is not worth asking why....

Gareth
Freyja E35 241 1972
 

sveinutne

Member III
I can keep the engine in the boat and try to get it CE certified. Volvo paid 80K euros to get their new Volvo pent engine CE certified, and I will have to pay the same, the only difference might be that Volvo got their approved, but I will most likely not get approval.
It is noise and emission that stopped most old engine.
So it is much cheaper to buy a new certified engine in europe.
 

sveinutne

Member III
Just a little side note. I am from Trondheim, and I am working closely with the university called NTNU. Yesterday they made a new world record in Lausitz during the Shell Eco-Marathon. With their car DNV Fuel Fighter they manage to drive with the energy equivalent of one liter of gasoline 1246 km. It is like driving 3018 miles on one gallon of gas. That is good gas mileage. And you are only getting 50-100 miles on your cars, no wonder Chrysler and GM need to restructure.
 
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sveinutne

Member III
The bout is now out of the water, and the first layer of new bottom paint is put on. You might see two pictures. The boat should have been shipped already, but it was too tall for the ro/ro ship as it stands, so we will have to take off the railing to get it below the 11’8” they have as maximum height. Now that the engine is out, I am looking at other options. Som are suggesting electric propulsion or some sort of hybrid. Steyr got one I am looking at: http://www.steyr-motors.com/products/pdf/hybrid.pdf
But I am not sure what to choose.
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