Ericson Windlass Installation [Master Thread]

footrope

Contributing Partner
Blogs Author
Christian, I think a washdown pump is mandatory if you anchor in mud, and especially if you have a chain/rode locker that can be accessed from the cabin - the v-berth. Mud and weed will eventually cause odor in the locker and an un-sealed locker may cause problems inside the boat if the locker isn't rinsed out.

Recently I was talking with a friend who is changing out his galvanized chain for stainless steel chain. He says the stainless will not pyramid as easily as the galvanized and thus require fewer trips below to shift the chain. When he showed me the chain, we experimented with it in the barrel. Polished stainless chain is very slippery stuff. I will be looking forward to hearing from him during his upcoming cruise.
 

Doug177

Member III
Hi Craig. I have been following your project notes with great appreciation and I am halfway through the same project on my 35-3 here in Michigan. Thanks so much for the great tutorial. I don't quite understand the 12v panel "switch/breaker" to the "Maxwell Supplied" 135amp breaker mounted behind the panel. How many amps is the breaker mounted in the panel or is it just a switch? Do people ever not go all the way back to the panel with the #4 cable? I was thinking about starting the #4 cable run to the windlass at the batteries (cutting out about 10ft of round trip cable). Putting the big Maxwell 135amp breaker down there and then putting a switch at the panel with much smaller wire, controlling a relay (if that's the proper word) to close the #4 circuit. Once again, Thanks. Doug
 

footrope

Contributing Partner
Blogs Author
Hi Doug – answers below.

How many amps is the breaker mounted in the panel or is it just a switch?

The Windlass switch in my DC panel is a circuit breaker, probably (hopefully) between 2 and 5 amps. Maxwell’s installation instructions recommended a 3-amp fuse or a 3-amp breaker, as indicated on the schematic diagram. I did not disassemble my DC panel to determine the capacity of that breaker. No problems so far.

Do people ever not go all the way back to the panel with the #4 cable? I was thinking about starting the #4 cable run to the windlass at the batteries (cutting out about 10ft of round trip cable). Putting the big Maxwell 135amp breaker down there and then putting a switch at the panel with much smaller wire, controlling a relay (if that's the proper word) to close the #4 circuit.

I think that your plan for the #4 wire and the lower gauge control wire is fine. Both #4 wires must have a direct path to the battery or batteries that will supply the motor power. That high current windlass breaker can be placed where it is convenient for wire routing and for you to reset. The old windlass installation on my boat used a 100-amp breaker in the same spot, so I took advantage if the existing wiring, which was perfectly adequate. I haven’t blown the big breaker in the 6 years I have been using the windlass. The other high current "Blue Seas System" breaker in the picture is for the engine starter motor.
 

Christian Williams

E381 - Los Angeles
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
The existing pan was resting on a 3/4" plywood cross piece that was firmly tabbed into the bow about 9 inches below deck level. [from Post #5]

As a point of information, my 1984 E381 doesn't have such a crosspiece. The pan is screwed down at its perimeter with no other support.

1 anchor locker pan removed IMG_7166.JPG
 

AlanO

Member II
In regards to putting a fuse "anywhere it is convenient for resetting" I think that would depend on whether the fuse is to protect the wire or protect the device. My understanding from Pacific Yacht System vBlogs is that fuses meant to protect the wire should be as close to the power source as feasible (i.e., battery post, distribution bus bar, distribution breaker panel, etc.). Fuses to protect the device are often much less than needed to protect the wire and can be close to the device or anywhere in the device circuit. 135 Amp fuse sounds like it is to protect the wire, but I'm not familiar with electric windlasses or followed the entire thread, so perhaps I am misunderstanding something.
 

Prairie Schooner

Jeff & Donna, E35-3 purchased 7/21
While I'm at it, just to connect some dots:


Jeff
 

Christian Williams

E381 - Los Angeles
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
The installation in Post #66 looks pretty good to me. I don't mind a surface mount of the windlass.

I wonder if the chain pile drains through the stem, or if water is just directed to the bilge through existing limber holes.

Perhaps I worry too much about mud and crud. How clean can an anchor chain be without superhuman effort? Perhaps it's not the issue I imagine it to be.
 

Bolo

Contributing Partner
Yes, post #66 is a very nice and professional looking solution to the old question of where and how to install a windlass on an Ericson. I’d like to see a wash down hose included (maybe it is but hidden from view) because some locations, like the Chesapeake Bay, have mostly thick black mud bottoms. Getting that into the anchor locker is not preferred but the wash down I have on my E32-3 takes care of most of the mud sending it back to where it came. In fact, most of my time hauling up the anchor, with my manual windlass, is sometimes spent hosing down the chain, anchor, foredeck and sometimes my hands - not cranking up the chain.
 

jtsai

Member III
The thick black mud bottoms at the east coast is no joke. The puny 1/4" anchor well drain on our Ericson plugs up easily if the mud is left in the anchor well. Instead of a wash down pump, has anyone tried cordless pressure washers with a 20' pickup hose? Ryobi manufactures those for Home Depot and I have had good experiences with 18V drills and 40V grass trimmer and lawnmower.

1724972766095.png
 

nquigley

Sustaining Member
Yes, post #66 is a very nice and professional looking solution to the old question of where and how to install a windlass on an Ericson. I’d like to see a wash down hose included (maybe it is but hidden from view) because some locations, like the Chesapeake Bay, have mostly thick black mud bottoms. Getting that into the anchor locker is not preferred but the wash down I have on my E32-3 takes care of most of the mud sending it back to where it came. In fact, most of my time hauling up the anchor, with my manual windlass, is sometimes spent hosing down the chain, anchor, foredeck and sometimes my hands - not cranking up the chain.
I installed a wash-down pump in my anchor well - high on the bulkhead wall. I didn't want to put another seacock in the boat so I use a length of clear hose (weighted at the end to keep it submerged) that I put over the side by the bow to pull water up, and a collapsable garden hose and gun-style sprayer on the outlet side. The pump is wired from a fused switch at the nav station circuit panel to an on/off toggle switch by the pump.
 

Bolo

Contributing Partner
I installed a wash-down pump in my anchor well - high on the bulkhead wall. I didn't want to put another seacock in the boat so I use a length of clear hose (weighted at the end to keep it submerged) that I put over the side by the bow to pull water up, and a collapsable garden hose and gun-style sprayer on the outlet side. The pump is wired from a fused switch at the nav station circuit panel to an on/off toggle switch by the pump.
The wash down on my boat was installed by one of its previous owners of which I think were two. It gets its water from the same through hull that the head uses by way of a “T” fitting off the seacock. The 12 volt pump is also located in the head under the sink with the switch located at the Nav station. So weighing anchor require activating the pump and opening seacock before any wash down can begin.
 

Prairie Schooner

Jeff & Donna, E35-3 purchased 7/21
I installed a wash-down pump in my anchor well - high on the bulkhead wall. I didn't want to put another seacock in the boat so I use a length of clear hose (weighted at the end to keep it submerged) that I put over the side by the bow to pull water up, and a collapsable garden hose and gun-style sprayer on the outlet side. The pump is wired from a fused switch at the nav station circuit panel to an on/off toggle switch by the pump.
I love the simplicity of this solution!
Jeff
 

peaman

Sustaining Member
I don't have a wash down pump. If the chain is raised from the water, with the anchor still submerged, just a couple minutes of motoring will usually result in a clean anchor. A bucket kept in the chain locker will take care of what mud is left.
 

Prairie Schooner

Jeff & Donna, E35-3 purchased 7/21
I don't have a wash down pump. If the chain is raised from the water, with the anchor still submerged, just a couple minutes of motoring will usually result in a clean anchor. A bucket kept in the chain locker will take care of what mud is left.
Do you do that in reverse so the anchor doesn't bang the hull? Or is that not a problem?
 

peaman

Sustaining Member
Do you do that in reverse so the anchor doesn't bang the hull? Or is that not a problem?
With the long bow overhang, it is not at all a problem. Of course, I wouldn't do it in choppy water, and only at low speed, which is how I usually leave an anchorage. It might not be a good idea with a Danforth style anchor, but no problem with my Rocna.
 

Prairie Schooner

Jeff & Donna, E35-3 purchased 7/21
With the long bow overhang, it is not at all a problem. Of course, I wouldn't do it in choppy water, and only at low speed, which is how I usually leave an anchorage. It might not be a good idea with a Danforth style anchor, but no problem with my Rocna.
Cool. Even more simple! Our primary is a CQR.
 

Eric Gordon

E27 - Sea Star
This installation is on a boat currently being offered for sale on Yachtworld. Photo credit to Tom Bossenger. I swiped the photos from the ad because eventually this link will go dead.
- https://www.yachtworld.com/yacht/1982-ericson-35--3-9480211/

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I have no connection to or knowledge of any of the parties involved here.
Do you by any chance know what the ‘rubberized’ material is? (I know it has nothing whatsoever to do wiuth the windlass)
 
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