When we first took delivery of our E35-3 one of the first things we noticed was the horribly difficult-to-operate Traveler. Upon further inspection we found that 2 of the existing control-end sheaves had been siezed, and as a result the control line had completely chewed through and flattened the sheaves, further preventing their rotation and causing major resistance to heaving (see lower sheave in pic below). Further, the heaving had been so hard to move the traveler that the control-end sheaves had actually "parallelogramed", skewing the block and bending the rivets which hold it together.
Additionally, we found that it was difficult to ease, and realized the plate which could act as a guide plate for the control line was actually installed on the TOP (as seen above - the plate with the forming in it seen on the top of the block) rather than center of the block, where it could act to guide the control line back into the block to aid easing.
Finally, we found it very difficult to press the control line into the cam cleat, and figured this to be the abrupt angle with which the stock cams are manufactured:
To remedy this I sat down to a good show and employed my half-curved bastard file to smooth-out the abrupt transition between the angled portion and vertical portion. Due to picture upload constraints per blog entry, this particular portion is covered in a separate entry.
In summary, we felt our traveler could benefit from the following improvements:
1. Ball Bearing sheaves (reduced crew exertion)
2. Improved purchase from 3:1 to 4:1 via becket addition and double blocks on car (reduced crew exertion)
3. Resistance to "parallelogram" by installing large-base ball-bearing sheaves (durability)
4. Improved easing by switching block plate order (reduced crew frustration)
5. Improved cleating by massaging rope entry on cleat jaws (reduced crew frustration/exertion) - Covered in separate blog entry!
To begin, we'll start with Block Improvements (Summary items 1 - 4):
To fix this, I decided a ball-bearing block with a large center bearing area would be the best replacement. I was able to find this in a Garhauer "#25 Self-Contained Ball Bearing Sheave" (unfortunately this is not an item readily order-able on their web-site, but calling them by phone they can easily assist you) along with the appropriate spacer which are identical in thickness to the sheave (you'll need to request these as well).
I drilled-out the rivets, and installed the sheaves, replacing the rivet with a 1/4"-20 TPI stainless-steel bolt and nylock-nut thusly:
Here are the sheaves and spacers, as-received from Garhauer:
Stack the cleat plate and one of the flat block plates onto the locking car, along with the first sheave and spacer:
Side note: You can see how broad the base is of the center-plate of the ball bearing sheave; this will serve to spread-out the load and keep the block from turning into a parallelogram, as the previous blocks did with a tiny center spacer acting to take that load...
Next, bending the control-line guide-plate is needed since the pulleys are of a slightly larger diameter than original:
Note: This is not needed if you prefer to install this formed plate back onto the top of the assembly, but we found it to aid easing by having it stacked above the lowest sheave.
Re-Positioning Formed Plate to Improve Easing (Summary item 4):
Again, we actually found this plate to be stacked on the very top originally, which did NOT serve to guide the control line over the cam-cleat. Placing it above the first sheave/spacer allows it to guide the control line above the cam cleat for much easier easing of the traveler. That forming helps to guide the control line back into the sheave while you have it pulled out of the cam cleat.
After that, stack the next sheave/spacer atop this plate:
Finally, put the last flat plate on (it the formed plate if you desire), as well as the Ronstan "RF-853" or "RF-854" ID plate (depending on whether it's the RH or LH control-end) and fasten your nylock nuts. In my experience trimming of the bolt length to be nice and flush was required. Also, the bolt head on the bottom side of the car did NOT interfere with the track thanks to the Ronstan car design having a slight trough in it for the bolt head to recess into.
If you plan on going from the stock 3:1 purchase to 4:1 purchase as I did, also install a becket (Ronstan Part Number: RF1051) on the bolt retaining the sheaves (putting it on the bolt retaining the spacers causes the control line to hit the sheave retention nut, which may chafe your control line):
VERY IMPORTANT NOTE: When tightening, first tighten the spacer-side of the block. Then, upon tightening the sheave-side, first tug on the sheave in the direction of pull of the control line (directly away from the spacer). This step is needed because the center-plate of the sheave is actually divided in two, in order to be able to load the ball bearings during manufacturing, and is only loosely held together with a hollow rivet in the center. If not well aligned, the ball bearings bind and do not roll freely. However, if you pull hard on one side and ensure the 2 halves of the center-plate are aligned, and then final-torque the thru-bolt, your sheaves will roll freely.
Additionally, to complete the upgrade from 3:1 to 4:1, we installed Ronstan Orbit 30-Series Ball Bearing Double-Blocks on the Traveler Car.
Obviously if you prefer to keep your 3:1 purchase then omit installing the becket on the control ends and keep your single blocks with becket on the car.
(Summary Item #2):
Fully completed 4:1 setup with ball-bearing blocks, improved lead-in, and improved cleats (for cleat details see other Blog entry):
For experimental purposes we decided to try a continuous loop traveler line (it's much longer than it appears; while Sailing it loops all the way down into the forward cockpit seats). This far it's worked fine - you're always certain of where the other end of the traveler line is and can pop the leeward side from the cam cleat easily from the windward side. This is at your discretion to do, but this far we like it. If you make sure you have enough line you can simply cut it in half to run separate control lines of desired (but make sure you have enough line such that half for each will suffice).
That's it for Block Improvements! See my Blog Post "E35-3 Traveler Upgrades (Cleats)" for improvements to the poor lead-in on the stock Ronstan Cam Cleats!
Additionally, we found that it was difficult to ease, and realized the plate which could act as a guide plate for the control line was actually installed on the TOP (as seen above - the plate with the forming in it seen on the top of the block) rather than center of the block, where it could act to guide the control line back into the block to aid easing.
Finally, we found it very difficult to press the control line into the cam cleat, and figured this to be the abrupt angle with which the stock cams are manufactured:
To remedy this I sat down to a good show and employed my half-curved bastard file to smooth-out the abrupt transition between the angled portion and vertical portion. Due to picture upload constraints per blog entry, this particular portion is covered in a separate entry.
In summary, we felt our traveler could benefit from the following improvements:
1. Ball Bearing sheaves (reduced crew exertion)
2. Improved purchase from 3:1 to 4:1 via becket addition and double blocks on car (reduced crew exertion)
3. Resistance to "parallelogram" by installing large-base ball-bearing sheaves (durability)
4. Improved easing by switching block plate order (reduced crew frustration)
5. Improved cleating by massaging rope entry on cleat jaws (reduced crew frustration/exertion) - Covered in separate blog entry!
To begin, we'll start with Block Improvements (Summary items 1 - 4):
To fix this, I decided a ball-bearing block with a large center bearing area would be the best replacement. I was able to find this in a Garhauer "#25 Self-Contained Ball Bearing Sheave" (unfortunately this is not an item readily order-able on their web-site, but calling them by phone they can easily assist you) along with the appropriate spacer which are identical in thickness to the sheave (you'll need to request these as well).
I drilled-out the rivets, and installed the sheaves, replacing the rivet with a 1/4"-20 TPI stainless-steel bolt and nylock-nut thusly:
Here are the sheaves and spacers, as-received from Garhauer:
Stack the cleat plate and one of the flat block plates onto the locking car, along with the first sheave and spacer:
Side note: You can see how broad the base is of the center-plate of the ball bearing sheave; this will serve to spread-out the load and keep the block from turning into a parallelogram, as the previous blocks did with a tiny center spacer acting to take that load...
Next, bending the control-line guide-plate is needed since the pulleys are of a slightly larger diameter than original:
Note: This is not needed if you prefer to install this formed plate back onto the top of the assembly, but we found it to aid easing by having it stacked above the lowest sheave.
Re-Positioning Formed Plate to Improve Easing (Summary item 4):
Again, we actually found this plate to be stacked on the very top originally, which did NOT serve to guide the control line over the cam-cleat. Placing it above the first sheave/spacer allows it to guide the control line above the cam cleat for much easier easing of the traveler. That forming helps to guide the control line back into the sheave while you have it pulled out of the cam cleat.
After that, stack the next sheave/spacer atop this plate:
Finally, put the last flat plate on (it the formed plate if you desire), as well as the Ronstan "RF-853" or "RF-854" ID plate (depending on whether it's the RH or LH control-end) and fasten your nylock nuts. In my experience trimming of the bolt length to be nice and flush was required. Also, the bolt head on the bottom side of the car did NOT interfere with the track thanks to the Ronstan car design having a slight trough in it for the bolt head to recess into.
If you plan on going from the stock 3:1 purchase to 4:1 purchase as I did, also install a becket (Ronstan Part Number: RF1051) on the bolt retaining the sheaves (putting it on the bolt retaining the spacers causes the control line to hit the sheave retention nut, which may chafe your control line):
VERY IMPORTANT NOTE: When tightening, first tighten the spacer-side of the block. Then, upon tightening the sheave-side, first tug on the sheave in the direction of pull of the control line (directly away from the spacer). This step is needed because the center-plate of the sheave is actually divided in two, in order to be able to load the ball bearings during manufacturing, and is only loosely held together with a hollow rivet in the center. If not well aligned, the ball bearings bind and do not roll freely. However, if you pull hard on one side and ensure the 2 halves of the center-plate are aligned, and then final-torque the thru-bolt, your sheaves will roll freely.
Additionally, to complete the upgrade from 3:1 to 4:1, we installed Ronstan Orbit 30-Series Ball Bearing Double-Blocks on the Traveler Car.
Obviously if you prefer to keep your 3:1 purchase then omit installing the becket on the control ends and keep your single blocks with becket on the car.
(Summary Item #2):
Fully completed 4:1 setup with ball-bearing blocks, improved lead-in, and improved cleats (for cleat details see other Blog entry):
For experimental purposes we decided to try a continuous loop traveler line (it's much longer than it appears; while Sailing it loops all the way down into the forward cockpit seats). This far it's worked fine - you're always certain of where the other end of the traveler line is and can pop the leeward side from the cam cleat easily from the windward side. This is at your discretion to do, but this far we like it. If you make sure you have enough line you can simply cut it in half to run separate control lines of desired (but make sure you have enough line such that half for each will suffice).
That's it for Block Improvements! See my Blog Post "E35-3 Traveler Upgrades (Cleats)" for improvements to the poor lead-in on the stock Ronstan Cam Cleats!
