The new engine panel fits differently than the old Universal one with its recessed gauge and switch molding. There was never any plan to reuse the old panel even if we had chosen to repair the old engine -- wiring harness was shot and all the instruments needed updating. The old black plastic mounting 'box" had cracking in it from UV and the brittle-ness that happens to cast plastics over time.
A new cover had to be designed that would keep spray off and still allow access to the key and the stop button.
This is not perfect, because it really needs to make a closer connection/contact along the bottom, but it's way better than nothing at all. Further refinement will happen, by and by.
The clear front piece was cut and polished by a local plastics store for $12.75. The SS hinge is from McMaster Carr for under $9. (plus S&H), I already had some G10 on hand. Note that the close fit of the seat hatch with its underside coring required that the top piece be quite low. Even the securing screws are countersunk.
The hinge probably could have used threaded screws into the acrylic, but I was not willing to crack the material by tapping it. The ss screws and nuts look good enough for the few folks that ever lift up the seat hatch for a closer look.
The edges of the clear panel have some split clear hose on them to pad against vibration and somewhat seal the sides from running water.
This is another of those 4 hour projects that takes a week to finish.
Aside: for a more professional-finish engine gauge panel total install with new clear cover, see the blog entry for bigd14, dated 5-26-18. Beautiful workmanship!
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new plastic plate over instruments.jpg
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Hinged clear lorez.jpg
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lifted up -lorez.jpg
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plastic panel in place.jpg
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underside view lorez.jpg
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